gavbriggs

Have a 2004 Range Rover diesel which I drive 2 kms to work each day, 6 days a week in day light. have interior lights turned of. At least once a week have to charge or jump start. I do drive it quitely when cold but never had the issue with my previous V/8. Several battery changes etc, charge rate checked. Only conclusion I can think of is alternator RPM is too low at lower engine RPM. Has any one else experienced a similiar problem.

hi gav i have a 1996 rr p38 and put a eka code 1515 to try and sort my sent locking problem out .and it did nothing except ball my car up.and now wont do anything.but found out the door catch was faulty so put another one in and got the proper eka from r r.so put that code in and nothing happens all it keeps doing is when i put the new code in and put the final turn to open all the doors and open the driver door the allarm keeps going off and on dash says engine imobilised.the indicator lights flash outside to say the code is going in but no light on the dash flashes as the code is going in .we did manage when taking the door handle off to snap a pice of from the back of the key barrol but managed to fix a pice of tin to it so the door can be locked would this be at fault as it still locks and opens the car ??? also we have done the window setting but still nothing please can you help thanks mate mike

HI, someone on the forum thought that you might be able to help me out?
I have a '92 RRC 3.9 with a gas kit. After a recent trip to the garage for a bit of work, the gas is all over the place.I need to understand the connections (hoses) to the vaporiser and where they come from and go to etc. I think that there is something screwey going on. Any advice would be really appreciated?
Thanks for your help,
W

Thanks for the info Gav, the front passenger door has now seemed to have fixed itself and is working ok, but the rear door is still locked. The child lock is also on so i cant open it from inside the car either, so don't know how any garage would be able to fix it either as you can't remove the door card.

Hiya Gav,just to up date you on my door lock problem.I've stripped out the lock mech,cleaned it up,even sprayed the electrics with contact cleaner.Put it all back together,no joy,but I did notice broken strands on the interior door latch to lock, steel braids that sit inside the cable liner.Im guessing this could be snagging and not releasing the latch properly,just to be on the safe side though i'm looking for a second hand door mech and cable, but I will keep you informed.Anyway your a fucking hero mate for doing those door locks[worst 2 hours of my life what a bastard of a job[you need fingers like E.T.] Anyway thanks again.

Alright gav no problem just getting paranoid about the lpg on monday, if i get get probs in the furture i dont want to piss about i like to get things sorted quick.also thinking about rad and thermosat, but would prefer some who knows what hes doing rather than local shit job.

Hi mate.
I was reading a post that you commented on and you may be able to help me!

Both my cats have gone on my p38 (out of the flap!) but it runs on LPG.

What more advice do you have on replacing the cat with a straight pipe.

I know its possible, I am wonding what size pipe? and what about the lambar senses...do they go or stay?

Rick

Hi, Gav you have mentioned on the forum that you have worked on the door lock and switch, is it possible to test the switch and put the eka code in by pressing the switch before i replace it in the door

Thanks for your help with my electrics. I will try to find a procedure to sort this SRS light and keep you informed if I come up with anything.
Part of this is avoiding Main Dealer costs, and part of it is learning about the vehicle, and enjoying fixing it yourself !!
Best regards.