Window regulators / tight glass?

Hmmm you extended the wires did you?[emoji4] [emoji366] .......have you used wire of the same rating/thickness?.....if it's too thin/underated it will act like a resistor and slow the motor down...these motors draw some hefty currents, also if the extended wire is under rated it will get quite warm to the point of melting[emoji4]

Also you could pull the casing of the motor and with no window attached turn the armature....you should be able to turn it with ya fingers...this will prove that the mechanism moves freely and is OK.

yep wires are all good and as I beleive there's a a bcc or ccm I think it might be on the freelander 1 the switch wires would only control that as spot lamps go through a switched relay etc..

Finally got around to a test today and both are receiving 15v both up and down so can I assume both motors have given up?

thequeenscheese said:

Finally got around to a test today and both are receiving 15v both up and down so can I assume both motors have given up?

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Depends how you tested the 15v - are they 15v while loaded (IE the motor is trying to run) or did you just unplug and stick the voltmeter in the disconnected sockets?

It's quite important - with the current these things draw, the voltage will drop massively if you've got a knackered high resistance joint somewhere. (But will /only/ drop when the current is being pulled, producing a phantom "this is okay!" sense.)

I think we've narrowed it to the motors them selves.
Are the motors available on their own without the full regulators?

are the motors repairable or are they sealed units?

Never heard of a window motor go,......you must have been using them a hell of a lot...up....down...up......down.....up....down.........r

jedi said:

Never heard of a window motor go,......you must have been using them a hell of a lot...up....down...up......down.....up....down.........r

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As for 15v.....I can't get that voltage even with the charger plugged in on max?....

Oops! I've quoted myself....naughty jedi.

Electric motors almost never 'lose power' - there are a few occasions when magnet equipped ones get overloaded overheated and the magnets go - that can do it.

But mostly they soldier on till the brushes go, and then they stop. That's tens to hundreds of hours RUNNING - how often do you wind the windows up?


A 'hot' electric motor is one that is over 100C - that is it hisses when you spit on it.

If you can touch the can without getting burnt its not too hot.

However a motor running against a stiffer load than usual will run hotter than usual.

I think jedi has given you top advice, which you appear to be ignoring.
Have you tried connecting motors direct to the battery, have you tried turning armature by hand ?
Out of interest, why did you take the glass out to begin with ?
EW aren't rocket science, regulator,motor,wiring.

I took the glass out so I could get the regulator out to grease it up and check it, as for the advice I'm not ignoring any of it, the only load it has is the window the rubbers can be taken from the equation as they are not interfering, I don't have any spare wire to run direct from the battery at the min so I can't test that, on battery only its 12.6ish volts on engine running its 15v there abouts.
motors will get hot after continuous use for sure but a window motor shouldn't get that hot surely with intermittent up downs even after some up down up down up down while messing with it, it gets 2 hot to touch and the drivers gets relatively warm also the passenger 1 works better at first before it gets hot I can get it to just about close by up till it stops then down a little then up until it stops again then repeat until it's up, but then after some testing and the motors is red hot and the window is in the regulator it will only go down without any help.

jedi said:

Never heard of a window motor go,......you must have been using them a hell of a lot...up....down...up......down.....up....down.........r

Click to expand...

they did get a lot of hammer in summer as I've not got air on etc but I wouldn't say any more than normal

1 motor getting that hot = short in motor
2 motors getting that hot = short in wiring

If there's a short in thetmotor tir would the motor work good found down?

Typos

Definitively, (again) here's how you diagnose it:

Test the voltage with the motor "running" or "trying to run" IE stick the voltage probes in the back of the plug into the motor.

Low voltage = Wiring is screwed
High voltage = Motor is screwed

If you test the voltage with the motor unplugged, it tells you nothing other than you've got at least something of a connection back to the switches.

If there was a short in the motor, the likelihood is that it would pop the fuse.

Also, check the system fuses don't have a hairline fracture in them.

not near a multi meter at the min but I will check that when I'm back at my dads where they are..

one other thing I niticed is the passenger side on gets worse progressively while being used and I suppose the motor gets hot likewise..

after some deliberation ive bought the bullet and bought a cheap new regulator with motor from ebay for £32 with post seeing as all the second hand ones were asking more or the same poor quality i know but surley thats better than second hand?, anyway earlier i took the l/f motor to bits and had a look the brushes are very worn and scared scuffed and blackened possibly the cause of my issue im unsure. i couldnt see any potential shorts anywhere so i cleaned the brushes and the mini relay/points thats in the motor, the capacitor/resistor looked ok, looking at the brushes tho it looks as if the screw on the motors axle ha smaybe pulled too tight and pulled the brushed contact point too far into the brushes as there is a lip on it and thats where the scarring was on the brushes.

Also how by just doing this did it change polarity up is now down and down is now up? the wiring cannot be put back wrongly as its a one way plag as im sure you know - not sure what happened there?

crude drawing

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new motor a reg fitted £30 delivered goes up and down fine now but the rubbers are old and tired and slowing it down a lot..

anyone know where I can get some universal ones I'm not paying retail it's silly money I must be albe to get something that will work somewhere both internal and external?