What have you done to your Freelander today

Nodge68 said:

...
Alas my V6 is mixing water with the oil again so rather than doing the HG's again i'v got a low miles replacement as a temporary measure which will give me time get the original engine on the stand and do a full strip down to diagnose and hopefully repair it for good??
What we do for our cars!!

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Can we have some photo's of yer strip and repair please?

i've started stripping down to replace the turbo and service

Nodge68 said:

In reality it's pretty impossible to get zero back pressure in an exhaust. A turbo will have more pressure in the manifold up stream from the turbo than there is in the inlet manifold!! This pressure in the turbine housing should be enough to seals from leaking just as it does in the compressor housing.

As for the EU. have you seen this?
Armageddon | www.the-ace.org.uk

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It's a known issue! Think about the pressure of the oil, the gas will cause a Venturi effect and draw the oil thru. Yes it does apply more to highly tuned engines. Back pressure is very important there is a lot of science in exhaust design. You can ruin your performance and driveability by removing too much back pressure. Remove a cat from a naturally aspirated car. It usually ruins your low down torque and response. You need a well designed exhaust to run with no cat to get good performance from it. Pipe diameter is important as is manifold branch length, how and where they join, 4 into 1, 4 into 2 into 1, it all affects power and were it occurs in the rev range. It's not so critical when you have a turbo but it does still come into it, just shoving a drain pipe on usually has adverse effects, most exhaust builders have a reference for pipe diameter, where the boxes need to go, back pressure required. Or they can calculate from the engine size, boost pressure etc what size should be about right. Not bigger is better!

Hippo said:

Can we have some photo's of yer strip and repair please?

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Yes if I can work out how to get them on here!!

Nodge68 said:

In reality it's pretty impossible to get zero back pressure in an exhaust. A turbo will have more pressure in the manifold up stream from the turbo than there is in the inlet manifold!! This pressure in the turbine housing should be enough to seals from leaking just as it does in the compressor housing.

As for the EU. have you seen this?
Armageddon | www.the-ace.org.uk

Click to expand...

In my earlier post I said I agreed with not wanting back-pressure.

To clarify - I should have said no more back-pressure.

Regards mods.

AFAIK from ex-pat relatives, in most countries (except UK of course) approved tyre and wheel sizes are recorded in the Registration Docs.

To fit any other wheels or tyre sizes you need the approval of both the vehicle manufacturer and the tyre or wheel maker.

Tyres and wheels are the most common and probably the first thing most LandRover owners change/improve.

Alternatively you can take your vehicle to the Inspection Authorities for them to issue a 'Certificate of No Objection'.

Sounds a very unwieldy bureaucratic system to be thinking of introducing this in the UK - our MOT dudes cannot even cope with the changes they put in the MOT this last January, several of which have been postponed until "later in the year"
Ha ha -that'll be right.

Singvogel.

Diesel Do said:

It's a known issue! Think about the pressure of the oil, the gas will cause a Venturi effect and draw the oil thru. Yes it does apply more to highly tuned engines. Back pressure is very important there is a lot of science in exhaust design. You can ruin your performance and driveability by removing too much back pressure. Remove a cat from a naturally aspirated car. It usually ruins your low down torque and response. You need a well designed exhaust to run with no cat to get good performance from it. Pipe diameter is important as is manifold branch length, how and where they join, 4 into 1, 4 into 2 into 1, it all affects power and were it occurs in the rev range. It's not so critical when you have a turbo but it does still come into it, just shoving a drain pipe on usually has adverse effects, most exhaust builders have a reference for pipe diameter, where the boxes need to go, back pressure required. Or they can calculate from the engine size, boost pressure etc what size should be about right. Not bigger is better!

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For a NASP engine you want No back pressure!! Any 4 stroke engine Will pick up torque when you reduce exhaust back pressure. This is due to reduced pumping losses. However It would loose torque if you were to run an engine calibrated to run with back pressure and then were to remove the back pressure!! This has nothing to do with the exhaust back pressure as such but anything that you do to the exhaust is reflected in the inlet!! So say we were running a 4 cylinder engine that is carb fed, with a conventional restrictive exhaust. We then remove the back pressure by fitting a decent free flowing version. If you were to simply test it without re-calibrating the carb and the ignition too then you would likely loose torque or gain very little. The reason being due the exhaust leaning out the mixture due to the extra air the engine can now breath in!! It's not quite so important in a modern injection engine as the ecu will compensate a bit but to get the most out of any mod an ecu re-map would work wonders!!
Exhaust manifold design is complex but important. Exhaust pipe sizes much the same on a Nasp engine but not so on a turbo as long as it's big enough.
Turbo petrol engines can suffer from seal failure but this is due mostly because of the variable throttle on the inlet causing a momentary vacuum in the exhaust drawing oil out!! It is possible on a diesel but it's not going to be a problem on anything from LR!! Removing the cat will make more power in any engine after it's been calibrated to run cat free!!
That's just a small part in exhaust design that would in fact take an entire book if put down on paper. I've spent the best part of 20 years building performance engines so I know a thing or two however it's not rite to fill this thread with it in respect to the OP

Looks like my crack repair is holding up for the moment

Put the sump plate back on last night, tightened to just 7 Nm - felt like the bolts were starting to "give" when I put 10Nm on the wrench

Half filled with oil and left overnight

Sump is still clean !!!!!!!!!

Just put rest of oil in

I guess the real test will be when it gets hot

Fitted roof bars

Day 2 of this thread:

Still no emergencies at work.

Therefore the Freelander received even more attention.

Cleaned and treated all the black plastic bits with Autoglym Bumper and Trim Gel.

Absolutely the Dog's Whatsits - you can keep your peanut butter stuff - this is the best.

Singvogel. :cool2:

just ordered mintex discs and pads new vcu hangers and new fuel pump and filter ready to fit next weekend now £300 lighter

Singvogel said:

Day 2 of this thread:

Still no emergencies at work.

Therefore the Freelander received even more attention.

Cleaned and treated all the black plastic bits with Autoglym Bumper and Trim Gel.

Absolutely the Dog's Whatsits - you can keep your peanut butter stuff - this is the best.

Singvogel. :cool2:

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150% agree singvogel that is what i use all the time on my bumper plastics.....
this is what i did to mine today after finding i had a rare saturday off....
put prop shaft back on complete with VCU and carrier bearings then gave the old girl a bit of love and TLC washed waxed hoovered out and gave the plastics a good going over see pics of my pride n joy below















Have just viewed the pics it looks as if i missed the very bottom of the sills they appear to be very dirty just gone out to check and they are spotless along with the rest of the car so i can only guess it was a bit of sun light showing under the car, phew

No it looks as the kids missed the bottom of the sills i paid good money to them for washing the car will do it 1st thing tomoorrow

Got the V6 out so the transfer of all the ancillarys can commence!!

Took it to work!

wired in a bonnet light pod... despaired at the poor fit

Nodge68 said:

Yes if I can work out how to get them on here!!

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Thanks. A thread on a kv6 would be very interesting. Don't worry about photo's. We'll help. All you need to do is open a free account with photobucket.com. Then upload the photo's to their web site, on your account. You'll then be able to put a link in your posts on ere, which tells the forum where the picture is stored in your accout (online on photobucket). The forum will then display the picture the link points too. Example link below. I've added an * at the start to break the IMG code which is the code to tell it to display the picture:

[im*g]ht*tp://w*ww.img*ur.co*m/y2Qw591.jpg[/im*g]



And the photo it points too:


PB141818 y2Qw591

If your still unsure then we'll sort it for you to get you started.

I have washed ma hippo as it int been done for months. Jet rinse, snow foam, jet rinse, tardis tar remover, jet rinse, soap hand wash and jet rinse. Only the best for ma hippo.

Hippo said:

Thanks. A thread on a kv6 would be very interesting. Don't worry about photo's. We'll help. All you need to do is open a free account with photobucket.com. Then upload the photo's to their web site, on your account. You'll then be able to put a link in your posts on ere, which tells the forum where the picture is stored in your accout (online on photobucket). The forum will then display the picture the link points too. Example link below. I've added an * at the start to break the IMG code which is the code to tell it to display the picture:

[IM*G]http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/HippoPhoto/Keep/PB141818.jpg[/img]

And the photo it points too:

If your still unsure then we'll sort it for you to get you started.

Click to expand...

Here it is

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/v6-heart-transplant-199758.html

Day 3 of this thread:

Loaded up the trusty truck today for the 2100 mile (3400km) run home from Bosnia next week.

I'm addicted to Alpine Passes (think of the Italian Job ) so the route this trip will be over the Wurzen Pass to Villach then the Brenner Pass (on the old road, not that concrete monster bridge) to Innsbruck.

Then I think it'll be over the Fern Pass to stop by the Oktoberfest in :5bcheers2: Munchen :beer2: on the way past followed by a day or two in the Eifel National Park :5bchillpill: :hippie:near Aachen later on.

Not due back in the UK till 1st October so best to make the most of the return journey.

Singvogel. :cool2:

Fixed the pas leak and put all my tools back in the D2 after fitting a new turbo to that