Water Pump : Genuine or After Market?

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You are of course taking the ****? Landrover and quality control are two mutually exclusive expressions, you only have to look at the failure rate of their products be it Freelanders, P38's, L322's or the latest Sport.
As for the comparison with hip joints, some of those used by the NHS have an appalling failure rate:mad:

No I am not taking the p*** and you know it. Land Rover and other manufacturers invest a huge amount in QA for their products and parts. They may not always get it right, but they have improved significantly in recent years and compared to their competitors (Toyota, Merc etc) they are still cottage industry sized. Same for Jaguar. I don't think comparisons to the 20 year old P38 are relevant now - what did 1994 Skoda's look like and how does that compare now?
 
And Landrover and Jaguar were bought by TATA one of the biggest and richest company's in the world
 
Stupid f**k** water pump.

Got 3 bolts out, its the one just behind the crank pulley that I can get to, its either going to have to come off the mounts of or the crank pulley has to come off.

Either way after 4 hours of titting around, the pump is still firmly attaches.

On the plus side, my pump held in with 4 10mm bolts and not T30 torx ones!
 
If a parts manufacturer puts its name on the bits it produces,they will be of a decent standard or its name will be mud.

A firm who just distribute parts and sources from different suppliers will not be as fussy.
Some aftermarket parts are actually superior to Dealer supplied whose boxes may contain parts from various manufacturers.

There was nothing really wrong with Skoda before VAG,they were just an old fashion design.
 
I got a shiney new LR water pump with a metal impella.

Its sat on the the kitchen work top cos I can't get the old pump of the sodding car.

It coming to close to getting towed to the scraper, if its not fix tomorrow, I have no other choice.
 
Can we have some pic's of the new and old pump? (notice I have every confidence you'll get it oft)
 
bolt bwtween the pully, if i get a spanner on it, there is no room to turn it.

rachet and socket will not go on,

Crank pully can't come off, as I have no bar long enough and no replacement bolt.

Think that the air compressor, alternator and tensioner are going to have to all come off just to have room to turn the sodding bolt.

Quote of the day "would rather change the water pump than tackle the heater matrix"

The heater matrix was easy in comparision!
 
Emptying the gray glittery sludge out the coolant bucket was disturbing!!! lol
Is that fragments of metal? If that were mine I'd try and flush out the cooling system whilst making sure I didn't drain the crap through the engine. Has something worn or disintegrating or is this normal wear?
 
I changed the heater matrix, 2 weeks ago. everything has been fine.

It started to make a noise the other day, stopped an looked and the belt was so slack i pushed it off the AC compressor with one finger.

When i move the belt water ran on me :(

Open bonnet, the 1-2 week old coolant had turned a nice grey colour. Assumed that it was crap from the new matrix, someone else suggested the same.

Went back (its out side my folks house) with spanners, put the belt back one, started it up. 20 secs later it threw the belt off the water pump. Check pump can rock the pully.

So it seem that the pump commited suicide all on its own accord. The pump is only 12 months old! Just when I'd got the sodding heater to work....

I just thought.....maybe some crap from inside the new matrix obliterated the pump on the way through.

Either way, you are right about the flush. Just need to get the f'in pump off first ggrr
 
Is your crankshaft pully ok? Mine rattled the air con belt so loose I could pull it off with my finger?...


If its gone on the aux belt side the water pump gets it but time.....think of it being oval shape instead of round......you get a hammering action through the belt.
 
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