Tie Rod Support

Arctic2 said:

Well done :clap2: you win past the post way before me, mine as not even arrived yet hopefully it will work on the TD4 just as good.

Hi Nodge.
Which part did you round off the internal edges or outer ones, do you have a photo of said item, I am also changing the rear bushes as I found the centre one to have failed badly quite a lot of movement of the prop and was getting a thud when changing gear into second sometimes, cheers Arctic

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I can take a picture for you. I round off the outer edges, just to allow somewhere for the bush to move, should it be pinched tight. This isn't really an issue on the Freelander subframe though. The ZS180 subframe clamps the bush tightly at the sided, adding vibration because the bush can't move.
You should be OK with simply changing the tired rubber bush though.

Nodge68 said:

I can take a picture for you. I round off the outer edges, just to allow somewhere for the bush to move, should it be pinched tight. This isn't really an issue on the Freelander subframe though. The ZS180 subframe clamps the bush tightly at the sided, adding vibration because the bush can't move.
You should be OK with simply changing the tired rubber bush though.

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Hi Nodge
Sorry a don't know your name as it seems not very many members use their names in the about me part.

I got your drift though and if you look back at my last post you will see I did just that cheers Arctic2

Did you do the upper tie bar too? I'm pretty sure mine was worse than the lower one.

Alibro said:

Did you do the upper tie bar too? I'm pretty sure mine was worse than the lower one.

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Hi Alibro.
I have not checked the upper tie rod as of yet will get round to it sometime this week if possible and report back, I am not sure as to weather the old bush I took out should be round as it is here below in the photo's or straight level anyone got any idea about this thank you.

They look pretty much like mine. I think they are deliberately rounded but not sure how much difference it makes. I bought two bushes for £35 as I thought it was better value than buying them separately at £25 each.
My top one was if anything worse than the bottom one.

Quick report since I have changed the lower tie rod mount and the rear diff front mount I am getting bad vibrations when breaking anyone have ant ideas on this please cheers Arctic2

Have you checked the upper one? Just a thought but you could swap the new bush to the upper tie rod to see if it makes a difference. If it does then you probably need to change the upper one as well.

Alibro said:

Have you checked the upper one? Just a thought but you could swap the new bush to the upper tie rod to see if it makes a difference. If it does then you probably need to change the upper one as well.

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Not been able to check top one yet did have a quick look, it look as though it will be a nightmare to remove on the TD4 space is a minimum to sya the least, anyone done this have if so how please.

Looks like main top engine mount will have to be removed and then jack engine up

I managed to have a 40 miles drive in th FL today after fitting the new lower tie rod mount with the power flex one, and fitting the rear front diff mount over differing road situations some motor way others built up area etc .

And I have to say the FL drove abysmal vibration on tick over which I could just about put up with, but on driving when turning left or right sharp corners it shook badly, also when braking from speed down to stopping it is shaking through the whole car.

I can only put this down to the power flex mount being to stiff for a TD4, I ordered a new top tie rod mount which came today and looking at it there is no difference in it to the lower tie rod mount I have just taken off.

I don't know if you experienced the same but I found the problem with the old bushes got worse as I drove. After 40 minutes or so it got really bad so I was putting the problem down to the bush getting softer and more springy (like a squash ball), not that it was worn away.
I could be wrong (and often am) but it sounded plausible to me.

Hi Alibro.
the reason I removed and checked mine was that I was get a thud when changing into second gear, so when I removed the lower engine tie rod mount and found it could move easy my thought was it had failed.

Since I have received the new upper tie rod I have found out that the bush is supposed to act and move in that way, therefore I have change it for nothing really I will later today be replacing as the power flex one is to hard and is giving off to much vibration on the TD4 engine.

It sounds as if it is ok on the 1.8 and 2.5 petrol engines ?

As you can se from the pics below there is no difference in the bush I took off to the new upper one I received yesterday.

new upper mount
1

2

3

Upper mount with the centre bush pushed out
4

Side by side with my lower centre bush I took out a couple of days ago on the left both the same.
5

6

7

The new upper mount measure 55.77mm
8

The lower engine tie rod measure the same 55.77mm
9

I may well have bought a new upper mount for nothing as well as I have not had chance to check it yet, either way I will be changing it/ both and removing the power flex yellow bush
10

I will also be checking the other two rear mount on the diff as the juddering I am getting is really bad this maybe being caused by the power flex traveling down the prop shaft to the rear diff I have yet to investigate this cheers Arctic2
11

Rear front one I fitted to the rear diff
12

I have a trick that I have successfully used a number of times. As the lower tie bar bush is meant to be sort of floating to isolate the engine vibration, pop the old one out, clean it and wrap a few turns of pvc hose repair tape around it and put back in, as long the bush was just worn and on failed 5 min repair that will last for a good while

roccotune said:

I have a trick that I have successfully used a number of times. As the lower tie bar bush is meant to be sort of floating to isolate the engine vibration, pop the old one out, clean it and wrap a few turns of pvc hose repair tape around it and put back in, as long the bush was just worn and on failed 5 min repair that will last for a good while

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Sounds like a good quick solution until a new one can be obtained, I changed the power flex one back to the original today and most I the vibration as gone, but I am still getting a violent judder when breaking from speed, which is coming from the rear so hopefully it is only the two rear mounts, also found out today I need two new front discs as they have a lip on them. I have not stopped spending on this FL since I purchased it in October it looks like I will have to go through the lot.

Why do some owners not keep up with their car maintenance drives me but bought it with my eyes open knowing that any second hand car will need to have at least £500 to £1000 spent on it to bring it up to scratch.

Sounds like we were having a different issue. I found the car shuddered when pulling away in 1st, a bit like it had Kangaroo petrol but it definitely got worse after driving for 30 or 40 minutes. It bothered my missus more than me and seems to have been cured by replacing the bushes.
I agree completely about lack of maintenance on cars and also budgeted around £500 - £600 for repairs after purchasing,
Good luck with your issue though.

Her indoors is still complaining about the car not pulling away smoothly (although it isn't as bad as before) so I took it for a drive today and felt the problem myself. It seems to come and go but I think the issue is clutch related. Pulling away with or without touching the accelerator the car jumps a little until the clutch is fully engaged. It's as if the clutch is not catching smoothly so I'm going to order a clutch kit and have a go at changing it myself with help from a mate.
Might be stupid but I wonder if it is oil seeping into the bell housing from the crank cover leak it had for a while. I have now replaced the gasket so hopefully that is fixed but is it possible for oil to seep in and drip very slowly onto the clutch? If it did would it then burn off after a while? There is no sign of it slipping so probably a silly suggestion.

Did you get to the bottom of this in the end @Arctic2?

Sorry to jump in but it is related. I just replaced my lower tie rod bush with the Rover 45 bush as @Nodge68 suggested for my TD4 Manual and the big rattle sound has gone away. Also I do not have any adverse vibration to report (None at all as far as I can tell) my question is this.
I got Two 56mm bushes in my kit. I have a small rattle from the top tie rod now and was wondering does the upper tie rod use the same 56mm bush? :-0)

Madmustang said:

Sorry to jump in but it is related. I just replaced my lower tie rod bush with the Rover 45 bush as @Nodge68 suggested for my TD4 Manual and the big rattle sound has gone away. Also I do not have any adverse vibration to report (None at all as far as I can tell) my question is this.
I got Two 56mm bushes in my kit. I have a small rattle from the top tie rod now and was wondering does the upper tie rod use the same 56mm bush? :-0)

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The large bushes are the same 56mm bush. I wouldn't recommend using a polyurethane bush on the top tie bar though. To much vibration is transferred to the body, especially on the TD4. The smooth V6 is horrible with the upper bar fitted with a poly bush.

Nodge68 said:

The large bushes are the same 56mm bush. I wouldn't recommend using a polyurethane bush on the top tie bar though. To much vibration is transferred to the body, especially on the TD4. The smooth V6 is horrible with the upper bar fitted with a poly bush.

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Ok will try and fine a part number for the bush or the whole thing if its only a few shackles more. Thank you

Madmustang said:

Ok will try and fine a part number for the bush or the whole thing if its only a few shackles more. Thank you

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Upper tie bar only comes as an assembly, CW with the bush.
It's KKH102620 for the manual or auto box.