Td4 Lack of power at 70mph - fixed !

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I have been having the same problem for a long time been to several garages changed all the big pipes changed the turbo boost regulator the rear filter put in the new helical filter chnged the vacum accumulator replaced the diesel filter located under the rear wheel still the same problem our garage suggested using the car until it gets worse and they can be more sure whats causing the issue but thats not the answer its dam annoying when you loose power and the landy goes into limp mode must have spent circa £500 chasing the prolem at least
 
I have no idea if my Freelander is connected to this problem with solenoid but when I'm doing around 75mph it feels like i've hit a limiter. It's like the fuel has been cut. No engine management light though. All other times it pulls very well. I installed a new MAF about three years ago and Synergy Box
 
Hi all, having some of the same symptoms as in the thread, disconnect MAF and all is fine. but been running it like that for about a month. thought that the problem was back even with the MAF disconnected. So changed the engine filter, fuel filter, replaced all vacuum hoses as they were perished and split. still no difference. finally tracked problem down to injector loom replaced loom and got it running fine again with MAF disconnected. With MAF connected car runs a lot better but still slow to accelerate past 2500 to 3000 rpm. what order pipes on turbo soleniod valve anddoes anyone haveany pics. thanks
 
I read all the posts about Freelander 1 TD 4 loss of power at 70 mph. I have an 02 plate which is exactly like this. I have done many tasks to it, all advised by the forums, however i still have the same problem.
Brief history. approx 105,000 miles, Freelander 1 TD4 auot box.
1, MAF sensor replaced. no better,
2, EGR soenoid removed and blanked of with a kit from Ebay. no better.
3, Fuel lift pump in tank replaced. no better.
4, LP fuel pump under hood replaced, no better.
5, Fuel filter replaced, no better.
6, turbo boost valve, and vacumn hoses replaced. no better.
I am now at a loss to know what to try next. Diagnostics showed, "turbo boost pressure", so i really thought that the boost valve would be the probem.
It can be very embarrasing on hils, especially with trucks being baukled on hills.
Sometimes, the power returns, without any increase in the throttle position.
Any more ideas would be appreciated, or i think my L/R days are over !!
 
This may or may not be connected.

If I am steadily cruising on a fairly flat road between 50 and 70mph (not deaf enough yet to go faster with 50/50s) the engine malfunction light will come on and accelerator is as much use as a fart in a spacesuit, could stay like that for 30 secs or 10mins. Will even stay on when I slow down, it will usually shake off if I drop a gear and hammer accelerator.

I am thinking it could be connected to this boost solenoid. I oven cleaned the inlet manifold and egr, no change. Breather is next. Has anyone encountered the same issue at lower mph?
 
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This may or may not be connected.

If I am steadily cruising on a fairly flat road between 50 and 70mph (not deaf enough yet to go faster with 50/50s) the engine malfunction light will come on and accelerator is as much use as a fast in a spacesuit, could stay like that for 30 secs or 10mins. Will even stay on when I slow down, it will usually shake off if I drop a gear and hammer accelerator.

I am thinking it could be connected to this boost solenoid. I oven cleaned the inlet manifold and egr, no change. Breather is next. Has anyone encountered the same issue at lower mph?

You've brought a K Series to a TD4 thread!
 
You've brought a K Series to a TD4 thread!
Mine is TD4. What made you think I was a K series?

Turns out it may be the crankcase breather... lol, cyclone ordered from ebat.
received_10156018598700006.jpeg
 
Thanks for all the answers, i have the same issue loss of power at 70 mph and the engine light goes on for some seconds and then disapears. I bought my td4 3d 2005 ten months ago and i always had that problem except that in the begining the engine light was not turn
 
Same issue, loss of power at 70 mph for some seconds mostly on hills(the yellow light goes on and then off). I bought my td4 2005 3d ten months ago. The third day after i bought it i had massive white smoke, the problem were the injectors and i fixed them. After i took my car from the garage i experienced the loss of power at 70 mph but without the yellow light. This loss of power was very rare at beginning and now it happens like 10 times during a 400 km trip. So i guess i must start like everyone else...check for hoses...selenoid...etc etc,and praying that the turbo is ok... i was really amazed by the post were the guy cleaned his turbo, a genious!
 
Hello all, just thought i'd update you on the cause of my lack of power issues with my Td4 03MY in case it helps anyone.

I initially had a split turbo hose whilst on the M6. It was the short 90 deg hose. Symptoms were initially lack of power, and then black smoke and air whistling sounds. Bought a new one of those for under a tenner and fitted it.

Unfortunately it didn't fix the lack of power over 70mph, but at least there was now no smoke. Symptoms now were that on a slight gradient on the motorway the car would start to lose power and thus speed. There was also a slight noise but not the same as the air noise from the split before.

The Td4 turbo is variable geometry and is controlled by the boost solenoid (see black plastic unit in the picture). It applies a vacuum to the turbo via pipe 1 in the photo. When the vacuum is applied the turbo exhaust side vanes close and it uses more exhaust gas to provide more boost.

My solenoid had failed so that it constantly applied vacuum to the turbo, and thus operated it at max boost all of the time. What then happens is that when you get a high speed / load condition i.e. 70mph and a hill, the ecu senses that the turbo is over boosting and derates the engine by cutting the fuel in order to protect it from damage. It will then speed up again when you get back onto the flat.

The solenoid is STC4198, cost £34, took 15mins to fit (don't need undertray off). Fitted and all working perfectly now.

So if you have lack of power on hills at 70mph, try this test. Pull pipe 1 off the turbo and drive a 70mph hill and see if it cures your issue. If it does, voila it's the boost solenoid. With the pipe off it will be a little sluggish at low speed accels as it won't be able to close the vanes for full boost, but it's fine to drive in order to do your 70mph test.

For info pipe 1 is solenoid vacuum to turbo, pipe 2 is vac supply to solenoid from the plastic reservoir at the side of the engine, pipe 3 is the solenoid vent to fresh air via the little filter. Check these for holes as they rub various engine parts. Also worth checking that your boost solenoid filter isn't blocked, as this would prevent the solenoid from releasing the vacuum and cause the same symptom. Fair chance it's ok though and your solenoid is bust.

Good luck ! :)
Kungfu, do you think that this would lead to lower mpg than normal ? IM suffering the same symptoms and my fuel consumption has dropped a lot !
 
Hi all,
Big thank you Kungfu you've saved me the thick end of 800 quid! My 53 td4 auto had the lack of power symptoms, scary slow on hills, wouldn't get over 65mph and a long whine when accelerating hard, took it to a "diagnostic specialist" and the upshot was he said the actuator seals weren't holding vacuum, and advised a new turbo,took it to a local mot place and they've changed the boost solenoid and it's like a new car, I've had it 3 months like this and today is the first time it's done 85mph and still giving!
Thanks once again
 
Hi everyone.
First time owner of a landrover Freelander 1 2.0 TD4 (2000).

1 month in and had a full service done and a new COSTLY job (clutch, flywheel) replaced punctured intercooler hose pipe, vacuum pipes, disconnected EGR (blanking kit ordered and on the way) and now have problem which I hope I can fix with help from members around here as it is very similar.

Problem is:
- after some time on the road probably when pushing it on 4th or 5th gear it looses power and only turning it of and on again fixes it.
- No lights on dash but haven't scanned for codes yet as I have to find someone with a code reader.
- Turbo works OK before loosing power.
- MAF sensor cleaned but still no inprovement.
Also before doing service on vehicle it was working ok although turbo was not working due to worn Vac hoses but was fixed before service and clitch started slipping,

can anyone here list a check list for this problem? I read the full thread but can't figure out were to start and an exact fix.

- vacum hoses done and replaced (no change)
- egr disconnected and vacum closed (no change)
- vacum filter at back of engine bay checked and good (no change)
- full service done including fuel filter in engine bay, oil filter and new oil, coolant, clutch, flywheel (no change)

Next:
- egr blanking kit
- camshaft breather modified (ordered)

what else? (cheapest 1st)
- turbo cleaning?
- turbo solenoid?
 
Another thing has anyone tried a Turbo cleaner kit before removing and opening the turbo for cleaning? and if yes what were the results?
 
Another thing has anyone tried a Turbo cleaner kit before removing and opening the turbo for cleaning? and if yes what were the results?

Yes - complete waste of money in my case as the Turbo was far too sludged up for any of the cleaners to make any difference.
 
Hi everyone.
First time owner of a landrover Freelander 1 2.0 TD4 (2000).

1 month in and had a full service done and a new COSTLY job (clutch, flywheel) replaced punctured intercooler hose pipe, vacuum pipes, disconnected EGR (blanking kit ordered and on the way) and now have problem which I hope I can fix with help from members around here as it is very similar.

Problem is:
- after some time on the road probably when pushing it on 4th or 5th gear it looses power and only turning it of and on again fixes it.
- No lights on dash but haven't scanned for codes yet as I have to find someone with a code reader.
- Turbo works OK before loosing power.
- MAF sensor cleaned but still no inprovement.
Also before doing service on vehicle it was working ok although turbo was not working due to worn Vac hoses but was fixed before service and clitch started slipping,

can anyone here list a check list for this problem? I read the full thread but can't figure out were to start and an exact fix.

- vacum hoses done and replaced (no change)
- egr disconnected and vacum closed (no change)
- vacum filter at back of engine bay checked and good (no change)
- full service done including fuel filter in engine bay, oil filter and new oil, coolant, clutch, flywheel (no change)

Next:
- egr blanking kit
- camshaft breather modified (ordered)

what else? (cheapest 1st)
- turbo cleaning?
- turbo solenoid?

Update:
Installed the modified breather and cleaned egr, cleaned plastic manifold best I can as it is a Bi***h to clean completely, removed vacum pipe to egr and closed the vacum pipe but problem is still there will try cleaning the turbo just in case and swap the solenoid with one from a friend of mine (owns a td4 with no big probs )

will update with the results
 
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