Repair a tail door window regulator

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michielvdv

New Member
Posts
4
Dear Freelander trubble shooters..

I recently had a problem with my electric back door window..
It gave a noise and didin't open or close but just a beep..

The mechanism was broken... a wire was broken..

The dealer in Oisterwijk..Netherlands..told me the new part costs 370euro..and a seccond hand part is 210euro..
I asked him if it was possible to repair it by replacing the cable?
NO, NOT POSSIBLE!! We have more of those mechanism here in the back that are broken.. If there was a possibillity to fix it we whould know that!
We could help a lot of people! We get 3 customers a week with this problem.
(the same mechanism as VW uses)

I checked internet and find a repair set on Ebay...so now I new repair is possible!
I cheked this forum and found a thread about a men who repaired it with a bike wire... so I tryed..
AND IT WORKS!!

I made a document with foto's about the rapair and want to share it to you all!
my cost now were 2 euro!

Thanks to you all.
Michiel van de Ven
 

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Good stuff, next time you go by your dealer tell him your surprised that he wasn't aware of these repairs & it took you 5 minutes to find it. Make him look silly.
 
Good pics Michiel van de Ven, or should it be van de Man? ;)

I think it was 2003 when I did the cable repair. I didnt have a digital camera at the time, so your pics are a welcome addition.

Maybe attaching them in jpeg format so they can be viewed as thumbnails?

If this doesnt get stickied, then at least it should get moved to the common Q&A section
 
thanks for all your kind words but you all gave me the spirrit to do it.

here you are with the jpg.
 

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rest..
 

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Hi everyone! had same problem and wouldn't have done it without your instructions...sizes for cables given were spoton.

I have got my cables from a marine equipment store (its malta..they are everywhere) and the guy at the shop actually had the exact endbit and crimping tool.

Had one end crimped first, then went back with all the cable and stuff inline and measured and got other end done too. all 3 cables, etc came about 9euro. the hard part was pulling it all toghether but nearly couldn't believe the window working perfectly at the end. thanks again. this is a great site.
 
This is absolutely GREAT...will try to work on my landy this weekend. Michiel Van De Ven... u r d man!!!
Really hope that this will solve my prob, since all the sympthons are identical. the electric regulator/motor is running while indash switch gave me beep sound. suspected that something wrong with the cable, but all workshop ask me to replace the whole set (regulator motor c/w cable mechanism) which will cost me RM1500 (~ 300 pounds) without opening the door panel to further investigate...bull****
 
Anyone knows where to find this plastic white gear as replacement, if possible...as mine was broken at the centre :doh::doh:, whereby all cables are good..

My problem unresolved (still) :doh::doh::doh:
 
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This is all very useful - but I'm just trying to carry out this repair on my wife's Freelander and I'm afraid I'm failing at the first hurdle...how the hell do you get the regulator assembly out of the tailgate? I've removed all the nuts, but the windscreen is still attached so I can't get it out. How do you remove the windscreen from the sliders? I'm pretty sure that's all that's stopping me for now! Any photos would be fantastic!
 
The glass should be removed before undoing the regulator from the door. The glass is held by clamps to the carriages of the regulator mech. With the glass down a few inches you should be able to see the clamps at each side of the window. They are 10 A/F hex head screws. There are marks on the glass to make a reference for re-positioning. Undo the screws and remove the glass upwards through the slot. Then unfasten the regulator mech from the door and withdraw through the doorframe.

Allan
 
But to get you going:

You prob got the doorpanel off (Disconn bat negative / undo 4 screws at the bottom, the rest are push-on clips - 3 each side / 2 at base - lift to release the 5 further clips at top & peel away the plastic sheet)

Lower window half way - disconn window heat wire - first note how clamps are fitted to glass - now loosen clamps - and lift glass from tailgate

disconn regulator motor wiring plug

Now you can unfasten all nuts and take everything out.
 
Anyone knows where to find this plastic white gear as replacement, if possible...as mine was broken at the centre :doh::doh:, whereby all cables are good..

My problem unresolved (still) :doh::doh::doh:

My problem solved!!:D:D Special thank to Roy Mckay of 'E-Crofting' who provide me used part as a replacement..
 
And don't forget to put the 4 clips (see photo) on the bottom cable-hose-connector back. It prevents slack and else your window will not lower enough to open the door.

I hadn't put them in yet while testing and couldn't figure out why there was slack, until I saw the hose spring unload when pushing the window down.


How do we make this thread sticky ?
 
Spotted this the other day


Oi NOoooooooooooo!!












On hindsight I should have carded the windscreen with this url link.
 

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