Prop Shaft Bolts Needed.

I found a propshaft for my L Series the other day for £40 - the seller was even in the same postcode area as me

He tells me he removed it from his 2000 model to try and get better mpg (I dont believe in any of that, the poor thing still has to haul around the rear diff after all!)

Anyway, I need the bolt set - everything needed to install a prop shaft.

Was wondering if anybody here can help ? obviously willing to pay for bolts and postage.

I have a problem with nuts/bolts as I used to have a massive 'Bin' of bolts but over the years have used or given them away so need help

If you look on eb ay you can buy the bolt sets.

this will help: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/freelander-1-vcu-bearing-replacement-how-guide-156068.html

80% chance you'll also need to get hold of a good (recon) IRD - because your one's probably trashed.

80% chance you'll need to get a recon VCU for the props you bought - cos that's the probable reason it came off.

80% chance you'll need support bearings for the prop, cos they're likely to be in poor condition.

Is there any lateral play in your IRD's rear pinion? Have you checked the oil in your IRD? If its greyish, its probably worn down bearings, but it may have been changed by previous owner anyway to mask this. If so you'll need a recon unit. As you've got a good workshop - can you pull & push bearings? If so, I'd get an IRD bearing kit (with oil cooler & seals) and recon your IRD. They're only about £150. Got mine from Home page.

Before though - remove the rear pinion and check the crown & pinion gears for wear and broken teeth. If you need to replace them, the price is getting up to a commercially reconditioned unit anyway.

Before you install the props, you could test the VCU on a workbench - details on here and YouTube. Can also test it once installed doing the 1 wheel up test. If its naff, you will only trash your transmission if you install it - if its not in need of work already!

I don't want to be negative - just realistic. As you say, the props on your car weren't removed for no reason (and not MPG) and similarly, neither was the replacement you got. Sometimes its just noisy support beaings, but usually its because the VCU is stuffed and has trashed the IRD - and/or possibly the rear diff.

Good luck!

Only 80% Your getting very optimistic these days.

Alibro said:

Only 80% Your getting very optimistic these days.

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lol, I did say "I don't want to be negative" - maybe I was to positive! Those 'uppers' play havoc with my judgement

Grumpy, I can pull/Push bearings etc so will re-build anything that needs doing.

I installed the prop shaft today (bought the bolts from ebay £38) and only just took it for a test - I went around a big circle so only turned right and roundabouts but on the roundabout I get a nasty noise and it feels like something is binding up I have the rear seats and carpet out so expect more noise but not that.

Sounds a bit like something flapping in the spokes of a wheel ! it seems to be coming from the rear diff or the VCU, will investigate further tomorrow but if I need to re-build the diff I'm assuming thats not too difficult? well, I mean are the parts easy to find?

Did you test the VCU before fitting it?
If not have you done the one wheel up test? If not then I'd suggest you do a bit of research and do the test pronto before you frig the IRD. If the VCU is seized solid like mine was it will cause very expensive harm.

I put the prop shaft in a vice and put the biggest bar I could fit through the UJ, since the diameter of the bar limited the force I could use I was happy that I couldn't move the VCU on a bench (I am aware of how the VCU works so was trying to move the correct end
I have researched as much as I can on this subject too, been a bit pre-occupied with my Tailgate problem over the past few days but I solved that today

I took it for a run again tonight (in the dark) with my missus beside me this time, the noise seems to be coming from the opposite wheel to my turn, so - if I am turning Left the noise is from the Right (Rear) Wheel.

Also, upon engaging 1st gear again coming out of a roundabout (I was letting it 'Coast' when the noise was going on - didn't seem to be binding) we heard a Bump.

I'm thinking this could either be UJ's on the stub axles or a mounting issue - the Diff Mount maybe?

I marked the VCU before going out this time and the marks moved so that's not seized (or at least not 'Completely Shagged' yet).

I haven't even had the wheels off of this yet. Looked at rear diff rebuild kits and so-far only bound the seal kits ! mind you - I haven't looked for those properly yet.

I'm quite happy to rebuild a diff, I just need to work out exactly whats a fault first !

Another day with my new toy

The Rear Diff Mount is completely gone, I love the way things for this vehicle are so inexpensive.

Baermach Bush - under £10

NikGrey said:

I put the prop shaft in a vice and put the biggest bar I could fit through the UJ, since the diameter of the bar limited the force I could use I was happy that I couldn't move the VCU on a bench (I am aware of how the VCU works so was trying to move the correct end
!

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I'm confused! I never tried turning mine on the bench as I know I wouldn't have been able to (cause I couldn't move the rear wheel at all when trying to do the one wheel up test) but I thought the whole point of a VCU was that you could turn it albeit slowly. If you weren't able to turn it then it sounds like it's fecked and will probably take out the rest of the transmission with it.
Do the one wheel up test and if it fails then get that propshaft off pronto, marking the shafts will only tell you if the VCU is moving but won't tell you how much force it takes to do it.

Alibro said:

I'm confused! I never tried turning mine on the bench as I know I wouldn't have been able to (cause I couldn't move the rear wheel at all when trying to do the one wheel up test) but I thought the whole point of a VCU was that you could turn it albeit slowly. If you weren't able to turn it then it sounds like it's fecked and will probably take out the rest of the transmission with it.
Do the one wheel up test and if it fails then get that propshaft off pronto, marking the shafts will only tell you if the VCU is moving but won't tell you how much force it takes to do it.

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+1

If you can't move it with leverage then it will give the gears and bearings in the IRD & diff an extreme workout to shift it - it will trash them. Those bits will be taking the forces necessary to move the car and fight the VCU. Those forces will be applied even when driving in a straight line because of the IRD ratio and subtle differences in tyre diameter - its only accentuated by cornering.

Also - I'm not sure there is a 'correct' end to move its got to work with forces applied by the engine, front axle and rear axle - so there will be forces from both ends in both directions.

I'm not going to take the risk for the sake of £200 from Bell (exchange, so sending my existing One to them).

Even though I could rebuild things I know that is it well worth a recon VCU at these prices - I only do about 3000 miles a year these days so a recon VCU will last me a while

I paid £40 for this prop shaft so in the end it was a good deal.

By the way, this Freelander is a project - it's not my main car yet so I have the advantage of that, and the Summer months to get it sorted.

I don't know why people slate these vehicles so much, I have been quite pleased with the build quality so far. I am used to BMW too.

It seems to me that there are only a few problems with these and they are not difficult to find/fix if you have even a basic knowledge of mechanics.

if ONLY the Mirror cases/covers were as cheap as everything else I found an excellent replacement glass for less that £6 on ebay.

Not sure why your so reluctant to do the test as it only takes 10 or 15 minutes. Your VCU could be locked solid or it could be perfectly good but it's your car and your cash.
Agree 100% about the rest of the car though, both my wife and I love our Freeby and when I sort the remaining couple of small issues in the next week or so it will be a real pleasure to drive.

BTW don't forget to budget for the price of the VCU support bearings. I bought GKN bearings from here a couple of days ago as the price was fair and I've heard too many bad reports of the cheaper alternatives.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151570569863

A growing number of people (be it a small number to start with) do the one wheel up test only to find out they don't have drive to the rear wheels as something has been removed. Like a prop, vcu or gear in the ird or rear diff. I've seen photo's of chopped ird pinions which disconnects drive to the rear wheels, but it's out of sight so you don't know.

Hippo said:

A growing number of people (be it a small number to start with) do the one wheel up test only to find out they don't have drive to the rear wheels as something has been removed. Like a prop, vcu or gear in the ird or rear diff. I've seen photo's of chopped ird pinions which disconnects drive to the rear wheels, but it's out of sight so you don't know.

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Good point. So when test driving you not only have to peek under the car to make sure the prop is there but have to drive it like a hooligan to see if the front wheels spin easily. Mind you if your buying an L series it would still be hard to get the wheels to spin even in Mondo mode.

Alibro said:

Good point. So when test driving you not only have to peek under the car to make sure the prop is there but have to drive it like a hooligan to see if the front wheels spin easily. Mind you if your buying an L series it would still be hard to get the wheels to spin even in Mondo mode.

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Absolutely, I've only spun the wheels on gravel... but the wife spins them all the time

Re-con VCU from Bell Engineering arrived (With new Bearings).

All installed - it's perfect now

Nice one. Should last the life of the car.