one dead hippo - freelander lseries diesel wont start

Hi guys hope you can help your threds have been a blessing over the last 2 months I have a freelancer lseries diesel 1999 which won't start I've replaced
the injector pump
Crankshaft sensor
Injector number one
Stop solinoid
Fuel sender
Injection belt and timed
But still just turns over and wont fire up
there's diesel at the injectors I'm stumped re
Really don't want to get rid of the old girl my daughter loves her so do family best vechale we have owned as had classics before our hippo first modern vehicle in 10 years we realised we had be missing out especaly off road which was a lot of fun any help to get her going again we would be very grateful thanks for reading..

Is the timing 100% spot on?

Did it just stop? Did it splutter out or was it temperamental before it died althougher?

Hi zdomzthanks for post, I went to local shop on way back left hand indicator stopped working which it has been dodgee on the stalk , now replaced plus relay , but rear indicator still doesn't work I think bad earth, parked up went to shop went to start and would not start just kept turning over and over , not the best place to break down oneway street in seaside town + only way into town typical would have laughed of you had seen the pileback mind , its been running fine before the only electrical fault it has suffered when it rains left over night the dash lights would go dim. It has always start led on the key first click , I forgot I have alsoreplaced the ignigtion switch , sorry about the spelling thanks

have you tried squirting some easy start into the engine then trying to start her. if it starts this would indicate no fuel getting in or the fuel pump not fully spot on with timing

Thanks for posting I've tried carb cleanr but it really did not like that , it made a very weird sound, I will get some easy start tommorow from the local factors and try start I roughly did the pump timing by lining up some old tipex marks by the priveous owner had nightmare to get at the crankshaft sensor and timing pin access hole put a drill bit in both timing and pump pin hole slackened belt aligned all in the storm yesterday but rechecked today, every time the engine is turned over the tipex lines always end up at the same place lined up on wheels and casing not to sure weather this is right? I found the timing was one tooth out and re-adjusted. The Haynes manual finally came useful

I am not surprised it did not like card cleaner as you have not got a carb.

When you say there's diesel at the injectors - is it just that the pipes are full or are you sure it is being pumped as the engine turns?

The ECU puts a signal to the pump - could be this signal isn't being raised. Presumably it could be tested with a multimeter?

Don't know. Does the L-Series have an immobiliser ?

When you say there's diesel at the injectors - is it just that the pipes are full or are you sure it is being pumped as the engine turns?

The ECU puts a signal to the pump - could be this signal isn't being raised. Presumably it could be tested with a multimeter?

Thanks for help , at the pipes its fine Ive tried at the injectors but oddly enough there was no diesel being squirted out of them so I replaced them but am yet to check will do tonight , I thought they may only open with pressure to them and the fuel hand pump had no compression in it , you mentioned the ecu above would it be worth swapping out for another unit or are they coded to the immobiliser? im getting 11.21volt at the injection start switch on injector one replaced wiring as it was knacked.

Probably a long shot but does the L series have one of those fuel cut-off buttons under the bonnet that may need to be pressed?, just a thought incase it had tripped out.

Thanks Britishwardog the lseries does , I will get the mutimeter and check voltage the button out make sure its not faulty , thanks I didn't think of that one easily missed in the thick of fuel system replacement, ive pulled the egr valve cable off to make sure its not that.

freelander fuel injection being prevented from starting what in the electrical system could cause this? , as im thinking the lseries does not have a ecm like the td4 so must be injection is solely controlled via the ecu the signal being a 12volt current to the first injector , got some easystart and just ordered a cut-off switch too rule out.

Presumably you have tested the compression on all the cylinders?

pixeltron said:

freelander fuel injection being prevented from starting what in the electrical system could cause this? , as im thinking the lseries does not have a ecm like the td4 so must be injection is solely controlled via the ecu the signal being a 12volt current to the first injector , got some easystart and just ordered a cut-off switch too rule out.

Click to expand...

If I'm right, I don't think the ECU sends to Injector 1 - the Injector sends to the ECU - presumably to give it timing info. I presume there's also a crank sensor that the ECU can apply/compare this info to together with throttle position. It then sends info to the pump to control injection.

Thanks guys Just taken number 1 injector out and tested the injector works , managed to get it to fire up on easy start which has ruled out engine issue however the battery runs flat after 10 cranks which would indicated a spent battery so borrowing a new one tommorow too see if makes a diffrence all is pointing too the timing being out or the battery being a dud not being able to crank the engine at a high enough rate? Replaced the starter a few months back.

The wire on injector 1, is purely timing feedback for the ECU, compared to the crank signal, to help fine-tune the pump advance solenoid.

The pump used on the Freelander L series, is essentially a mechanical VE pump, with a big-ass 12v servo slapped on top to control the fuel. Check all wires to the pump for breakages/etc.


Easy start/etc is never good for a diesel, and even utterly knackered and abused L series engines, still maintain decent compression

DastardlyDan said:

The wire on injector 1, is purely timing feedback for the ECU, compared to the crank signal, to help fine-tune the pump advance solenoid.

The pump used on the Freelander L series, is essentially a mechanical VE pump, with a big-ass 12v servo slapped on top to control the fuel. Check all wires to the pump for breakages/etc.

Easy start/etc is never good for a diesel, and even utterly knackered and abused L series engines, still maintain decent compression

Click to expand...

Can you please refrain from providing to much information and help that might resolve this problem quickly. All the other engines are well represented with thread after thread of K, KV6 and TD4 problems. Its nice to have a thread about the L Series for a change! I'm looking forward to as many posts as possible.









:behindsofa:
Sorry PixelTron.

Thanks for your feedback darstadly dan , its has just had a secondhand pump put on and the wires have been thourgly replaced as they were very brittal especially the injector 1 cables , don't worry grumpygel , I agree there is very little completed lseries threads when the car starts I plan on writing its working findings when running so others have something solid to go on hope it stays mild as wood stocks are running low for heat motorcycles aren't the best mode of transport for shifting wood around on?

Can you remove an injector and conect it out of the engine to see if it injects. ie. A nice conical spray pattern. Is it putting any smoke out at all? What colour is it?

we use brake cleaner not easy start but have also seen carb cleaner, silicon spray and various other stuff sprayed in to engines

with a fine spray you should be able to keep it running

Yes l-series has an immobiliser...wont crank if its on.

is it bled if youve been changing pumps etc. can take a fair bit of cranking....this is when the fine spray of brake cleaner keeps the engine going