Major clutch problems.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

duncanpage4

Active Member
Posts
455
Location
East Sussex
Hi everyone

If anyone could help I'd really appreciate it.
I recently fitted a Borg & Beck clutch kit including the supplied slave cylinder.
Having out it back together the gear change was difficult so I replaced two of the connecting rods.
However it didn't make any difference.
I bled the system a few times and it would immediately improve but then get worse when driven.
I went to bleed it again and the pedal wouldn't return so I replaced the master cylinder and this cured it for 30 miles or so and now it's getting worse.
It doesn't appear to be losing fluid so can't understand why it's failing to disengage the clutch fully.
Have replaced the clutch including the flywheel & both the slave & master cylinder.

Can anyone offer suggestions?
 
Hi everyone

If anyone could help I'd really appreciate it.
I recently fitted a Borg & Beck clutch kit including the supplied slave cylinder.
Having out it back together the gear change was difficult so I replaced two of the connecting rods.
However it didn't make any difference.
I bled the system a few times and it would immediately improve but then get worse when driven.
I went to bleed it again and the pedal wouldn't return so I replaced the master cylinder and this cured it for 30 miles or so and now it's getting worse.
It doesn't appear to be losing fluid so can't understand why it's failing to disengage the clutch fully.
Have replaced the clutch including the flywheel & both the slave & master cylinder.

Can anyone offer suggestions?


Td4?

I had the same issue with both new cylinders.

Only way I got the car drivable was to use this method

Have new fluid and a small syringe

Have a second person pump the peddle 10 times then hold.

Release as the pressure into a 1 way bleed kit.

Pull peddle back up

Check fluids level and replace cap

Repeat around 5 times


Hopefully it will finally work.

I tried pressure bleeders, pull bleeders and normal bleeding but only the above worked

I think that the issues was with the slave being contaminated possibly due to being manufactured many years ago, I wish I just got Brit part!!
 
It's advisable to change master and slave at the same time in the TD4. Problems occur from cross contamination of old and new fluid (as they are pre filled) which usually leads to problems after 12-18 months. Does sound a lot like air in the system though.
Bleed it at least 25-30 times to guarantee that all the air is gone. It maybe that the connection between the master and slave is a bit dodgy, B&B aren't the same qualtiy that they used to be, I would have gone with LuK (OE fit) or Valeo
 
Have seen this a few times on the TD4, if you can manage to drive it, even though its a pig to change gear just preserver with it, it will be air in the system. Have know them after a few days to get better as the air raises. It could be worth just trying it before you start to explore other avenues.
 
I fitted both cylinders and it still caused me no end of issues, last thing you want after a marathon clutch change session! I would agree and advise people steers clear of the b&b cylinder. Try the pump up bleed method I told you about and you will be amazed how quick it starts to come back, you only open the nipple for a really short time. I used the normal bleed process and ran 4l through with no results, got gear back within 5 mins and less that 400ml using the pump method :)
 
Hi all. I'd also advise stay clear of Borg & Beck slave cylinder.
The problem appears to be a fault on the coupling to the master cylinder.
I have since changed the rubber o-ring today and will use the car and see if it fails again.
 
Hi duncanpage4, I think everyone that's put a clutch in a Freelander will have had some 'bleeding' trouble at some point. When you put a new clutch and slave cylinder in a Freelander you are supposed to fit a new master cylinder at the same time, stupid idea but true. As you can see from the previous comments get someone to pump the clutch a few times and hold it down whilst you release the bleed nipple and quickly nip it back up again BEFORE raising the pedal. Do it 5 times and check the result then 5 more times and probably a few repeats. Your aim is to get ALL of the old (bad?) fluid out of the system at the slave bleed (harder than you think) and all the air out (the last bit of air will come out into the master cylinder, that is backwards to the pumping action). What you might end up with is air going down the pipe then back up a bit then down the pipe again etc. without actually coming out. This is what I had and I had to hit the floor with the pedal to change gear so I just left it and run short runs for a few days and it got better and better and better. Over 2 or 3 days it was cured and ended up a fantastic very nice to use clutch which it still is. I talked to LUK and they said that they just buy the master and slave cylinders in from the original Land Rover manufactures and put them in a box and sell them, I think everyone else does the same, nothing to choose from any supplier. I have an idea why fluid contamination occurs but that's another story. Good luck, persevere.
 
I did the procedure as Roccotune suggested, pretty much the same as your method and it bleeds fine but then gets worse over 50 miles or so. I had noticed a pool of fluid on the gearbox housing under the slave/master coupling.
I'm hoping the new o-ring has sorted it.

When filling the master cylinder I use a thin piece of acrylic to place between the reservoir and the flakey heat shield on the bulkhead. Have tried to prevent any contamination when filling.
 
Ok that sounds like you've cornered it. The contamination I spoke of actually comes from water.
 
Last edited:
I've started having clutch issues actually, had a new clutch fitted nearly a year ago, apparently they replaced all the hydraulics too, but i'm starting to lose all feel in my clutch and there's no solid bite point anymore, starting to get what sounds like a thrust bearing rattle too (goes away when the clutch is depressed)
 
So I finally got it sorted. As usual it was a combination of problems, the main one being that the Borg & Beck slave cylinder had a dodgy quick release connection on it so it was weeping fluid.
Tried various o-rings and fittings only to end up removing the faulty connections & replace the plastic tube from the master cylinder with a piece of copper brake pipe and flange fittings. Now it can't be removed mega fast but still reasonably quickly and I no longer have fluid dripping on the bell housing!
Also the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder has given up probably due to so much abuse from all the bleeding and throwing things at it! So I've replaced it with one from my old ZX9R brake callipers!
Now the old girl drives like a dream!
 
Back
Top