K series 1.8 fuel economy

I've just been on my first official run in my Easter Pressie. All good. Travelled 94.4km around Lake Dunstan [58.7miles] and used 8.66L [2.29gl] of petrol.

= 10.9km / litre

or 24.4 = not very good

My last K managed 23.5mpg

It was on a 2 inch lift with 205R16 Mud tyres, but still disappointing

24.4 mpg How do you test or check and oxygen sensor? Possible over fuelling issue?

Might be worth changing the temp sensor as well for the same reason.

You'd be hoping for something like 30MPG on a run like that.

htr said:

24.4 mpg How do you test or check and oxygen sensor? Possible over fuelling issue?

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If it was overfuelling, it would fail it's MOT on emissions. Mine sailed through...

htr said:

24.4 mpg How do you test or check and oxygen sensor? Possible over fuelling issue?

Click to expand...

You need a good multimeter and a wiring diagram (a finding in rave),check continuity of wires and sensor resistance
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uqmYkl7t0c

mine is a 2001 1.8 i put £20 127.9 litre and get roughly 107 miles short journeys only

1.8 petrol engine is undersized compared to the weight of the car, and it is normal to consume more fuel if you press the accelerator pedal to the bottom (kick down),.......and not too generous torque

Kickdown on a 1.8?

I do wonder what the economy will be like once I have my 1.8 turbo up and running. Not that it matters

I got between 42 and 45 miles per £10 in both of my 1.8 Freelanders, roughly 26 mpg on average

Jeepers, cost wise you might as well run the V6 rather than a 1.8! Diesel appears the only sensible option.

Thanks Grumpy I'm going to replace my O2 sensor as it got a little damaged when I removed it to clean up the exhaust manifold.

On my cylinder head by the ex manifold the coolant outlet has 2 temp' probes fitted. One is brown and points at the radiator the other points downward, and awkward to get at, it's blue it think. Which is for the gauge on the dash and which is for the ECU?

how did you drive it ,if I put my foot down my freelander drinks it but driven around 40/50 mph it doesn't do bad ,,although I put £20 in yesterday and drove 8 miles and it will be empty next time I get in it as my other half takes it rather than hers for work

24-30 mpg is the norm for 1.8 k series, little better with cool damp air.

I get about 29/30 mpg full stop.
K&N, well serviced, 205/70/16 tyre at 35 psi. Empty or loaded...

bushwwacker said:

I get about 29/30 mpg full stop.
K&N, well serviced, 205/70/16 tyre at 35 psi. Empty or loaded...

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That's more like it.

If the K Series can run at 30MPG - it's starting to compete with the diesels cost wise in NZ. The annual licence for diesels is more, the fuel itself costs slightly more and the RUCs (tax) works out more as well. So diesels have to really knock the pants off petrol versions to be more economic.

I get about 28/29 when I calculate it, but that is usually when I disapear off somewhere on a trip so it will be mostly a long run and then a bit of pootling around near the destination!

Where you drive makes a huge difference to mpg. Hills kill mpg.
Don't forget that you have changed the way the engine breaths. This will throw the ECU adaptive calibration off. You need to give it a few hundred miles to re-learn the new settings.

Nodge68 said:

Where you drive makes a huge difference to mpg. Hills kill mpg.
Don't forget that you have changed the way the engine breaths. This will throw the ECU adaptive calibration off. You need to give it a few hundred miles to re-learn the new settings.

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I didn't know that. So keep driving and I should see a gradual improvement?
I'm going to replace the oxygen sensor and possibly the coolant temp to the ECU as well.

htr said:

I didn't know that. So keep driving and I should see a gradual improvement?
I'm going to replace the oxygen sensor and possibly the coolant temp to the ECU as well.

Click to expand...

Mems stores adaptive values, using this data to ensure that the engine runs as well as possible throughout its entire life.
Changing the way the engine breaths will throw all the current adaptive values out the window, so to speak.
If you car find someone with a reset tool, these values can be returned to factory settings. This is also advisable whenever an engine is changed.
It will take a lot of miles for the ECU to relearn the new fueling and ignition requirements without an adaptive reset.