hg repair just a quick question

im going to be doing my hg on 2000 1.8 petrol k series after xmas...have done shopping list for parts ,

hg set with head bolts(full gasket set) bargain at £45
timing belt and tensioner

i have read somewhere that the head bolts are torx head? am i right in that i need a E12 socket or are they hex bolts?


thanks in advance

Buy cheap buy twice!

its a bargain....not cheap, theres a difference....the question was about the head bolt socket not my parts list but thanks

I've just done mine and i used a victor reinz and i have white smoke after new hg so branded isn't always better, it looks like it will be off again at the weekend as i don't think it sealed up properly even though i did the correct tightening procedure.

E12 for the head bolts and if you have a manual tensioner you need a 8mm allen hex socket.

thanks digi.... gasket set is from "gasket shop"

is mine manual tensioner? lol

Yep E12 splined socket , I know you don't want the advice but I'd suggest checking the original head bolts then if ok reusing those . There have been problems with the aftermarket bolts and as long as the originals are the correct length they are a safer bet .

MLS gasket ?

And I'd suggest a new water pump while you're there .

cheers bojer...i always listen to advice of others in the know especially when it my first time of doing the job....i have been advised by ex rac inlaw to replace bolts also as they stretch....but thank you

my shopping list so far.........

one of the kits dunno which as yet
121151001621 kit

120326335590 kit

290837688112 time belt n tensioner

E12 Torx Socket

Your choice but all head bolts stretch as they are tightened - if not overstretched they will return to their original (or close) length - the book tells you how to check them for re use .

Snapping one means new HG and more work...........

I'd suggest a cam locking tool too to make things a bit easier + water pump.

The cam locking tool is a nifty little tool, i got the laser one for less than a fiver on ebay

Before you lash out hard earned £££ on a HG carefully look at the height of the liners above the block face. All even and above the face = MLS, uneven heights and/or flush with the face you may want to consider a later Elastopolymer gasket [Payen BW750].


Other parts required in your Christmas stocking:
new std head bolts for use with the elastopolymer HG[ there are uprated ones available to use on an uprated MLS HG],
inlet manifold gasket
exhaust manifold gasket
exhaust downpipe gasket
cam cover gasket
cam tensioner
cam belt [there's two available - manual tensioner uses the narrower one]
water pump = highly recommended to replace
thermostat = highly recommended to replace - especially easy with the head off.
You could consider the strengthened bottom oil rail too.

head check and maybe a skim if needed.
If that head needs a skim you may want to consider new valve stem seals as they have to remove the cams to skim the head [ some valve are open due to the cam's position] so you part way there to get the valves out anyway.

Head bolts yes a torx socket E14?
cam locking tool useful too

Hope Father Christmas is good to you!

Have fun!

thanks htr, the gasket set i had in mind seems to cover all them bases u sudjest.
i planned to order the set before starting work as this is our main car so needs done asap and its getting done outside so wouldnt it get damp/rusty if kept outside with no head on?
head will be checked by me at work as im an engineer by trade

will look into cam lock
thermostat and inlet manifold gasket are brand new replaced whilst diagnosing water loss and running hot.(not boiled).


how easy is water pump? bolt off bolt on or swear for a while then unbolt?

cam locking tool?.................DRAPER CAM LOCKING TOOL ROVER K-16 ENGINES 52306 | eBay

With head off and cam paraphenlia off w/pump is quite good to get at. Mind you that last bottom cam cover bolt, the one behind the PAS belt tensioner is a 'b-tch' to get at.

htr said:

Mind you that last bottom cam cover bolt, the one behind the PAS belt tensioner is a 'b-tch' to get at.

Click to expand...

Not on my MGF VVC!! However the rest of the engine is a pita to get at

On the K Series. Definitely go with HTR on gaskets V liner hights. Do it wrong, you'll be doing it again very soon

thankyou for all the tips and advice so far..will all be taken into account.

next question is....im doing the job on my drive as i wanna try get it done over xmas break.............can i strip it before parts arrive? im thinking how the cold weather will effect exposed parts..........im looking at about two weeks minimum before i can start to rebuild if i strip it this week.

can i cover with sheeting/blankets? will it survive the elements? its fooking cold here atm but no snow yet thankfully.

squiz34 said:

thankyou for all the tips and advice so far..will all be taken into account.

next question is....im doing the job on my drive as i wanna try get it done over xmas break.............can i strip it before parts arrive? im thinking how the cold weather will effect exposed parts..........im looking at about two weeks minimum before i can start to rebuild if i strip it this week.

can i cover with sheeting/blankets? will it survive the elements? its fooking cold here atm but no snow yet thankfully.

Click to expand...

It wouldn't mind the cold for a few days. You can keep blown debris out of the block with a heavy lint free blanket.
Otherwise it will be fine as long as you keep it dry.

thanks for that nodge

If you really want "the best", then grab yourself an N series HG kit:

*Ultimate K Series Head Gasket Fix - N Series Gasket, High Tension Hea | Discount MG Rover Spares

Even better, the "ultimate" kit, contains pretty much every single part you were wanting to replace anyway

If the headbolts have the same head as the L series lumps, it's an E14 socket