Help: Replace Freelander 1.8 K series engine

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I think you did it the wrong way round.

The modified thermostat on the rad hose was a Land Rover fix for the crappy one at the back of the engine. :)
 
Vissie said:
I think you did it the wrong way round.

The modified thermostat on the rad hose was a Land Rover fix for the crappy one at the back of the engine. :)
Click to expand...
I guess time will tell but the modified thermostat never saved the freelanders original engine. I'm not saying its right or wrong it may be a case of trial and error.
 
Flathead they're right, people pay good money to do the opposite of what you did, you dint throw the stat mod away did you?
I know it's no guarentee but it does alleviate the thermal shock on the engine when this mod is fitted.
 
The very late FL1's had a coolant level sensor as well, if i owned a FL1 with a K series , i'd seriously concider wiring one in i think.

I wouldnt think it be to hard :)
 
Can anyone help. I know this is an old thread but I dont know how to make a new one. I have recently changed the head gasket on my k series, It wouldnt run unless it was bump started. The gasket wasnt sealed properly. I took it apart again and started over, new head bolts again. But now it is worse than before. It wouldnt bump start now.
 
Liner height and not loose or leaking, did you turn engine over with head off?
 
benjy8 said:
Can anyone help. I know this is an old thread but I dont know how to make a new one. I have recently changed the head gasket on my k series, It wouldnt run unless it was bump started. The gasket wasnt sealed properly. I took it apart again and started over, new head bolts again. But now it is worse than before. It wouldnt bump start now.
Click to expand...

Lots more information is needed before anybody can help. What have you done exactly?
Why did you change the head gasket?
 
Freelaner said:
an introduction wouldn't hurt either :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Hello, I am Ben. I have been using this site since I bought my freelander. =]
Happy now Freelaner ;)
I was driving to work when the car decided to die. Just killed the engine. I managed to rill it into the car park at work as it was mostly down hill. I popped the bonnet and tried to start it but got nothing. There was no coolant left in the system at all. I Filled it up a little and turned it over a little and saw water was ****ing out of the radiator.
Got her toed home and inspected a little more. The radiator had burst at the bottom and caused HGF but the temperature gauge did not go over normal.
Changed the head gasket, head bolts, inlet gasket, manifold gaskets. Skimmed the head, cleaned up block face, cleaned and checked the valves which were in very good condition.
Spark plugs were cleaned and dizzy was cleaned.
Everything put back together apart from one clip which hangs down under the exhaust manifold, oxygen sensor is plugged in and there seems to be nowhere to plug it. It is a blue connector.
Timing is definitely correct. Would start when towed but accelerator does nothing. Fuel pump primes when ignition is turned on. Compression test was a little low to start and have yet to do another one until the battery is charged.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Ben
 
benjy8 said:
Hello, I am Ben. I have been using this site since I bought my freelander. =]
Happy now Freelaner ;)
I was driving to work when the car decided to die. Just killed the engine. I managed to rill it into the car park at work as it was mostly down hill. I popped the bonnet and tried to start it but got nothing. There was no coolant left in the system at all. I Filled it up a little and turned it over a little and saw water was ****ing out of the radiator.
Got her toed home and inspected a little more. The radiator had burst at the bottom and caused HGF but the temperature gauge did not go over normal.
Changed the head gasket, head bolts, inlet gasket, manifold gaskets. Skimmed the head, cleaned up block face, cleaned and checked the valves which were in very good condition.
Spark plugs were cleaned and dizzy was cleaned.
Everything put back together apart from one clip which hangs down under the exhaust manifold, oxygen sensor is plugged in and there seems to be nowhere to plug it. It is a blue connector.
Timing is definitely correct. Would start when towed but accelerator does nothing. Fuel pump primes when ignition is turned on. Compression test was a little low to start and have yet to do another one until the battery is charged.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Ben
Click to expand...

How low was your compression test? Was it over 180 psi on all cylinders?
If it tow starts, it should start on the starter.
It's an early model as it has an HT dizzy. Worth checking the rotor Arm resistance, they often fail.
You say the throttle does nothing, is that the pedal or the cam on the TB?
 
Nodge68 said:
How low was your compression test? Was it over 180 psi on all cylinders?
If it tow starts, it should start on the starter.
It's an early model as it has an HT dizzy. Worth checking the rotor Arm resistance, they often fail.
You say the throttle does nothing, is that the pedal or the cam on the TB?
Click to expand...

It was below 180. It was about 125.
The throttle pedal does nothing when the engine was working on tow.
The cable and throttle body work fine as it was working on idle just the once before it got to this state.
There is a good spark to the plugs when it turns so I dont think it is the rotor arm.
Could the fuel filter be clogged? I am assuming that when it starts on tow that the fuel is being sucked through under pressure, but from start the pump cant draw the fuel through. ????
 
With only 125 psi on the compression test, it's not going to run well, if at all!!
You need to double check the cam timing.
The fuel pump should pressurise the fuel rail, the engine won't suck it regardless of how you are getting it started.
 
benjy8 said:
:boink: Any suggestions:D
I am glad you are a happy person.
Click to expand...

oh yeah i was going to inform you of some stuff

it's been covered above ^^^^^^ ;)

unlikely to be 180 degrees out on any cam, without seeing it i would suggest checking the timing again.
i had mine 2.5 teeth out and would still start on the key but not everytime.
 
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