Help with getting landy ready

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PeterLilith

PeterLilith

New Member
Posts
49
Location
Leeds
Hi all,

I have bunch of faults/things to fix on my Freelander. Mostly its just "minor" things, the car is running fine :) Figured I'd post them all here, since mainly I just want to ask who had experience with repairing/changing this stuff before and if its better to buy parts on ebay or go to retailers.

What needs changing:
- Passenger window motor (or whatever you call that thing that moved the window) and the interior clock.

The clock never worked and the motor we managed to break when changing the window (had the glass broken once). I seen the spare parts on ebay, but I am not fan of buying parts cheap for sake of saving money, I'd prefer not having to change them anytime soon again.

Does anyone have any recommendation where to buy these things? I was considering getting them in scrap yards too but getting new ones is probably better, right?

Things I am wondering about:
- Did anyone have problem on 3-door Freelander with sensor that checks if all doors are closed? Mine has been pretty random lately, sometime it shows something is open (when nothing is) and other times it works fine. So far I can't figure out what is causing this. I thought before it was something with the rear door, but I never use them.

- Sometime when I turn the ignition key there is a pause before the engine actually starts. Its not like a dead battery sound (had that before), there is just pause and if I keep holding the key turned, it starts after few seconds. Doesn't always happen, if I just turn the key to start electric stuff and wait a little, it then usually starts as soon as I turn it all the way. I wonder if I should have something checked, or if its normal, or if I am just not starting my car right lol

- This is just something out of curiosity, any idea why my car horn wouldn't be connected to the steering wheel? My Landy has a switch next to a switch to extra lights that works the horn. Just never seen it before.

Four Wheel Drive:
- I mentioned this in a different topic and someone said it might be prop shaft being removed, that my Landy doesn't use 4x4. I didn't know till recently and I am still not 100% sure, which is why I want it to get checked and if necessary, fixed. I didn't buy 4x4 to drive with 2 wheels only :p

Do you know if any decent service garage can check/fix this, or should I go to a Land Rover specialist service?

For anyone who had it disconnected, does it make a massive difference to have Freelander on 4x4 or just 2-wheels? I am assuming its about fuel efficiency in cities.

Thanks for any help.
 
PeterLilith said:
Hi all,

I have bunch of faults/things to fix on my Freelander. Mostly its just "minor" things, the car is running fine :) Figured I'd post them all here, since mainly I just want to ask who had experience with repairing/changing this stuff before and if its better to buy parts on ebay or go to retailers.

What needs changing:
- Passenger window motor (or whatever you call that thing that moved the window) and the interior clock.

The clock never worked and the motor we managed to break when changing the window (had the glass broken once). I seen the spare parts on ebay, but I am not fan of buying parts cheap for sake of saving money, I'd prefer not having to change them anytime soon again.

Does anyone have any recommendation where to buy these things? I was considering getting them in scrap yards too but getting new ones is probably better, right?

Things I am wondering about:
- Did anyone have problem on 3-door Freelander with sensor that checks if all doors are closed? Mine has been pretty random lately, sometime it shows something is open (when nothing is) and other times it works fine. So far I can't figure out what is causing this. I thought before it was something with the rear door, but I never use them.

- Sometime when I turn the ignition key there is a pause before the engine actually starts. Its not like a dead battery sound (had that before), there is just pause and if I keep holding the key turned, it starts after few seconds. Doesn't always happen, if I just turn the key to start electric stuff and wait a little, it then usually starts as soon as I turn it all the way. I wonder if I should have something checked, or if its normal, or if I am just not starting my car right lol

- This is just something out of curiosity, any idea why my car horn wouldn't be connected to the steering wheel? My Landy has a switch next to a switch to extra lights that works the horn. Just never seen it before.

Four Wheel Drive:
- I mentioned this in a different topic and someone said it might be prop shaft being removed, that my Landy doesn't use 4x4. I didn't know till recently and I am still not 100% sure, which is why I want it to get checked and if necessary, fixed. I didn't buy 4x4 to drive with 2 wheels only :p

Do you know if any decent service garage can check/fix this, or should I go to a Land Rover specialist service?

For anyone who had it disconnected, does it make a massive difference to have Freelander on 4x4 or just 2-wheels? I am assuming its about fuel efficiency in cities.

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

The last one you can check yourself, just look under the car.
 
Hi Pete,

Thats a fair old list. These are your questions answered from my opinion at least.

Get your stuff off E-bay. There are some outstanding bargains to be had. Use your common, and as the years go by you will suss out who is a good seller and who isn't. Checking feedback is a good start.

If you have more money then sense, get your stuff from a L/R dealer. Some stuff it is advisable to get from a dealer, but most isn't. Experience will tell you which is which over time.

The sensor fault. Never had this problem, but the 3 door has a micro switch on the removable top. Check that out, and do a little R&D.

4WD. As mentioned look underneath and check front and rear propshafts are present (And the weird looking drum like thing/ VCU). Your hippo is designed as a 4wd vehicle. Even though in the strictest sense of the word it is part time 100% 4WD.

Ran a couple of freelanders BRIEFLY in 2wd. And IMHO i did not save a lot of fuel, the transmission felt "Jerky and un damped". I don't advise it if possible.
 
PS, starter pause: Check/tighten the starter motor connections. Have had this myself on the odd occasion. Sorry if i missed anything. Its been a long day.
 
Thanks for the reply Longbolt. I am taking my Landy to service next week to have the connections checked and the 4WD.

I am curious if having the 4x4 reconnected will improve the transmission, there is nothing wrong with it per say, but it doesn't feel 100% right.

I will check out the parts too, probably after everything else is fixed, not like I am using the passenger window lol
 
PeterLilith said:
Thanks for the reply Longbolt. I am taking my Landy to service next week to have the connections checked and the 4WD.

I am curious if having the 4x4 reconnected will improve the transmission, there is nothing wrong with it per say, but it doesn't feel 100% right.

I will check out the parts too, probably after everything else is fixed, not like I am using the passenger window lol
Click to expand...

No probs Pete, glad if helped in any way.

I am just a little worried why the car is running in 2WD in the first place. I hope you don't find hidden issues with the VCU etc when the 4WD system is reinstated.

Fingers crossed, and hope it all goes ok. :)
 
Will see what the mechanics will say. I'll try to ask my father if he still has the description from the original owner. Though everything seems quite well maintained and my father said its been set up for fuel efficiency, so yeah, I hope its just for that reason.
 
Since the last reply I only got my water pump and ignition switch fixed. I didn't know the pump was a problem, I did have small leak of at least the coolant but thought it was just a hole in a pipe before they said the water pump really needs to be changed, which cost a lot so didn't have much money for other things.

The problem with starting was getting more frequent (and more annoying) so had that replaced and works like a charm now.

They did say the propshaft is still there so it should be 4WD but I am wondering if there is a way to test this for sure? I am considering going to Land Rover specialist for this check before the meet up.
 
PeterLilith said:
Since the last reply I only got my water pump and ignition switch fixed. I didn't know the pump was a problem, I did have small leak of at least the coolant but thought it was just a hole in a pipe before they said the water pump really needs to be changed, which cost a lot so didn't have much money for other things.

The problem with starting was getting more frequent (and more annoying) so had that replaced and works like a charm now.

They did say the propshaft is still there so it should be 4WD but I am wondering if there is a way to test this for sure? I am considering going to Land Rover specialist for this check before the meet up.
Click to expand...

Glad you got the starting problem nailed.

Re 4WD, if you have a propshaft in front and behind the drum like thing under the car (VCU) you should have 4WD when needed.
 
If your mechanic says the props are there - then its not the sort of thing they can get wrong - they'll be there. It will therefore be running 4wd IF the IRD (front diff) hasn't been altered. To check, just jack up one of the rear wheels and see if you can turn it by hand. If you can then its 2wd, if you can't then its 4wd. You should really do a 1 wheel up test (documented on the forum) to see how well the 4WD system is running - if its running to tight, costly damage could be heading your way if its not addressed.

Do not consider going to a Land Rover specialists. They will have no more knowledge of the Freelander's engine and transmission than any other 'specialist' - you'd be better going to a Rover specialist, at least they would know the engines and gearboxes. You need to find a Freelander Specialist - they will know about the uniqueness of the Freelander's transmission - its VERY different to other Landies and a Land Rover specialist is likely to make assumptions that will be costly to you.
 
GrumpyGel said:
If your mechanic says the props are there - then its not the sort of thing they can get wrong - they'll be there. It will therefore be running 4wd IF the IRD (front diff) hasn't been altered. To check, just jack up one of the rear wheels and see if you can turn it by hand. If you can then its 2wd, if you can't then its 4wd. You should really do a 1 wheel up test (documented on the forum) to see how well the 4WD system is running - if its running to tight, costly damage could be heading your way if its not addressed.

Do not consider going to a Land Rover specialists. They will have no more knowledge of the Freelander's engine and transmission than any other 'specialist' - you'd be better going to a Rover specialist, at least they would know the engines and gearboxes. You need to find a Freelander Specialist - they will know about the uniqueness of the Freelander's transmission - its VERY different to other Landies and a Land Rover specialist is likely to make assumptions that will be costly to you.
Click to expand...

+1 what he said.
Jack up a rear wheel wheel and do the one wheel up test. I did and found I couldn't turn the wheel at all even with a long bar. The prop shaft came off the same day.
 
Thanks for the advise. Do you know where on the forum I can find the test thing? I'll try to do this sometime this week.

Also, why did you remove the prop shaft Alibro? Not being able to turn the wheel was bad?
 
PeterLilith said:
Thanks for the advise. Do you know where on the forum I can find the test thing? I'll try to do this sometime this week.

Also, why did you remove the prop shaft Alibro? Not being able to turn the wheel was bad?
Click to expand...

Not being able to turn the back wheel when off the ground means the VCU (cylindrical object between the props) is too stiff. This means it won't allow a speed difference between the front and rear axles which is essential for cornering. In this case, the transmission will try to absorb the difference by torsion of the components (wind-up). This puts strain on the drivetrain and will lead to failure of the rear diff and IRD in the long term.

That's why he took the propshafts off. Welcome to the world of Freelanders. However, look after them well, and use this forum to learn how, and they will reward you.
 
Hm, that does sound like something I should really get checked at some point. Thanks guineafowl21.

This will be bit off topic but I can't post in the parts forum yet. Before I buy it from ebay, I was wondering if someone would have for sale a cover for rear bumper light? I included attachment of what I mean. My mechanic told me it is showing some white light because part of the red cover is missing. So far on ebay I was only able to find the whole light, which I don't need, just the plastic cover.

Also, this might be a long shot, but would anyone happen to have a nudge bar from Freelander 1? I manager to crack mine some time ago and while its not an issue or anything, I'd like to get it replaced eventually and be more careful in the future :D

The nudge bar I'd need look exactly like this:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attac...ot-lights-screen-shot-2013-02-21-16.10.06.png
 

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i believe the rear tail lights are a one piece unit, not a seperate lens. ,mine has a crack too.
As for the nudge bar ( same as mine, although i still havent got round to replacing the bulbs ) is the bar cracked or the pods? again im led to believe they are sperate items too.
Sorry im not a great help
 
Its the bar itself, the lights are still working (as far as I know), I have a crack on the bar just above the registration plate.
 
Hi,

I recently replaced my drivers window regulator, i bought 1 off ebay for about £35 and it took about 10 minutes to fit, its easier if 2 people work on it as 1 person will need to hold the window up out of the way.
 
I just spoke to Land Rover technician and they said I can also check if 4WD is working by doing slow full lock turn and then taking my foot of the gas. If there is no sudden stop, pressure or breaking, then its a sign its all working.

Anyone tried or heard of that before?
 
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