Freelander Mk1 failed MOT on emissions

My freelander mk1 failed the mot on emissions, the CO reading was 0.80 the limit is 0.3 and HC was 248 and the limit is 200 ppm, this was on the fast idle test.

The lambda and speed test was ok, 1.04 for lambda, speed 2694 /min.

What can cause high CO and HC readings?

I took it this morning for the test cold didn't warm it first, i'm thinking i should have taken it on a good drive to warm her up as i haven't been driving or using it lately for any long runs only small 5 minute trips to the shops.

I put a new exhaust mid section, cat and back box on about six weeks ago, i got them from eurocar parts, i'm thinking it may could be a dodgy cat, as any one bought and used the freelander catalytic converter from eurocar parts, are they good quality, how can you tell if the cat is not working as it should.

The front lambda sensor was change last year so is just short of 12 months old.

I've put a bottle cat a clean in the petrol tank, i've topped up with super unleaded and taken it on a long drive hoping this may get the readings down.

Is there anything else i can check or do before i take it back for the retest.

Thanks for looking.

Air filter clean? Oil clean?

Give it a good 'Italian Tune-up' just before you drop it back off at the test centre,

Dj4man said:

Give it a good 'Italian Tune-up' just before you drop it back off at the test centre,

Click to expand...

ABSOLUTELY! Never drive straight to the testing station. Up and down the freeway, maintaining about 2500RPM or more. I have a 1995 GMC Sierra with 83K on the clock. Bought it used from the state, and I use it ONLY to go and get the horse feed (3 miles away) three times a month. Some light ranch duty too, all together about 2K miles a year. It just passed on Friday, after I drove it for 30 miles almost "wide open".

Seeing your HC high, I KNOW it's the oxygen sensor fouling, and crap in the cats. Just drive it HARD before you bring it to the station.

A high HC means it's not burning all the fuel. Spark plugs would be the prime suspect for that. What year is it? A pre-2000 will have a dizzy cap rotor arm and HT leads. All these can also cause weak sparks and high HC.
High CO could be the O2 sensor beginning to fail. In theory, an old air filter shouldn't alter the mixture at all but I can't see that as a reason not to change it!! Give the engine the Italian warm up before the test. This heats up everything in the exhaust system.

It's an 02 plate, 1795cc petrol mk1, i changed the spark plug leads last year, i'll buy a new set of spark plugs tomorrow, what gap do i need to set the plugs at, i have a gauge. i can only see two plugs the other two are hidden.

My shopping list... oil filter, oil is 10w 40 semi synthetic ok, air filter, spark plugs.

When i take the car for good blast on the motorway should i change the oil afterwards or before or just before i take it to be tested.

it could be that dreaded lambda sensor and the rover 1800 petrol is a devil to pass the emissions as said make sure it is hot engine.

It it running smoothly?

I got mine when it failed on similar readings, one of the exhaust valves on cylinder 3 had burnt away, this caused a slight misfire and poor emissions. I had to have the head off and replace the exhaust valves. You can do a compression test to confirm or deny this condition. But the rover k series lump is known to have a tendency to do this.

I'm sure I'll be corrected but put some injector cleaner I think that might help the emmissions, has it had the egr blank? Not sure which way that will go for the test, but I'd guess if it's blanked then they will go up slightly?

For about £120 (what I've been quoted) you can get it hooked to a machine that cleans the air intake system and injectors etc or a cheaper option is a forte aerosol costs about £10 to buy and is a 2man importation but well worth it from what I've heard, at the garage where mi nephew works they service 100s of taxis and they raced about the aerosol before the garage bought the machine I mentioned but for a tenner you may as well do it anyway, ull need a filters and oil change ofter tho..

thequeenscheese said:

I'm sure I'll be corrected but put some injector cleaner I think that might help the emmissions, has it had the egr blank? Not sure which way that will go for the test, but I'd guess if it's blanked then they will go up slightly?

For about £120 (what I've been quoted) you can get it hooked to a machine that cleans the air intake system and injectors etc or a cheaper option is a forte aerosol costs about £10 to buy and is a 2man importation but well worth it from what I've heard, at the garage where mi nephew works they service 100s of taxis and they raced about the aerosol before the garage bought the machine I mentioned but for a tenner you may as well do it anyway, ull need a filters and oil change ofter tho..

Click to expand...

Injector cleaner might help a bit.
EGR valve mod isn't possible on the K Series as it doesn't have and EGR valve
These £120 engine cleans work on diesels for a short time. They are little use in a cleaner burning petrol engine.

I took it for a good blow out on the motorway this morning then revd the balls off it on a quiet country lane, it already had cataclean in the tank from yesterday.

This afternoon i did an oil change, new oil filter and air filter along with a new set of spark plugs.

Going to book a retest for the end of the week or early next week so the cleaner already in the petrol will have a little more time to work with normal driving around, fingers crossed i've done enough to get the emissions down enough to pass.

I will also take it for along drive before going for the test so it's nice and warm and run in.

Thanks everyone.

Driving the crap out of it WILL help. Changing the plugs/oil,.....definitely. But DO NOT take it to the testing station before you get it nice and HOT. Drive it at least for ten miles or so, with the tach at 2500 or more, before you show up at the testing station.

Failed again.... took it this morning after getting it nice and hot on a 20 mile run.

It passed the natural idle test CO 0.34 limit 0.50

First fast idle test CO 0.66 Limit 0.30 fail
HC 164 200 pass

Second fast idle test CO 0.97 fail
HC 237 fail

The readings were down a little this time and it passed the HC test on the first fast idle test but failed on the second fast idle.

Is the engine knackered do i need to start looking for another landy.

The cat is at max 8 weeks old could this dodgy, or could i have knackered it.

Since i changed the spark plugs the other day i've noticed a big improvement in perfomance and acceleration, it just seems more agile and running alot better , is there anything else i can do as i don't really want to get rid.

The tester said it seems to burning oil when been rev'd and the cat can't handle it but ok when on tick over, what can be causing the oil to burn.

I'm not sure what to do now, it's just the blumming emissions test, i've done so much to it since getting it, it seems to me it's running the best it's ever done since i've had it.

Where is the cat from? Why was it changed? I've come across cheap cats that simply don't work.
If it is burning oil, the most likely cause would be valve guide oil seals.

The cat is from eurocarparts.

http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/L...d0472287aa48140788bf84178bcddf2a678200&000059



It was changed as the centre exhaust section dropped off while i was driving and one of the prongs that goes into the rubber that holds the cat it place snapped off, so i put a new cat, centre section and back box on.

Are the valve guide oils seals a big job, would i be abe to do them at home.

I would think euro parts would supply a good cat but i've not fitted one.
Valve guide oil seals are do able at home by a competent Diyer. It can be done with the head on if the right tools are available.

i have read somewhere before euro cat failing a MOT retest on emissions just not 100% where now tho

also a exhaust sensor can cause all sorts of trouble on emissions

I have been topping the oil up on a regular basis for sometime so thought i was burning oil as there wasn't any stains or puddles under the landy.

Do i need any specialist tools to change the valve guide oil seals?

I have a socket set, torque wrench, spanners and other hand tools found in a tool box.

Are there any manuals that explain in detail how to do the job, i'm good at following instructions.

If i had a garage do the job what price would i be looking at roughly.

Hi,

Different vehicle but same principle: Valve guide seals

Dan

Thanks for all the info, i watched the video and learnt alot, i've ordered a overhead valve spring compressor.

On the video when he hand cranked the engine so the piston he his working on is at the top he feeds a shoe lace into the spark plug hole, is this to fill the gap at the top of the piston so the valve does not slip down.

When the piston is at the top is it possible to loose the valve rod, what gap do you have, i dont want to loose the valve rod.

I have the 1795 petrol engine with the coil pack, will i be able to do this job without removing any timing belts or other belts.

I've downloaded the rover k series engine overhaul manual, so i'm alot more confident in doing the job so hopefully the sping compressor will come early next week as i'm itching to get on with it.

Thanks again to everyone, a fantastic forum