Freelander loss of power at 70mph - Page 12

Sue1962 · #**111** 23rd-November-2008, 12:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by krzakx

I have same problem with my Freelander 2003 2.0 TD4 Automatic,

I can driving max 2000 rmp ! about 50 mph !.

Please help me.

Hi

Not sure if I can point you in the right direction. It turned out to be the timing pulleys in my case. When the garage took the head off they must have knocked them and in the rush to get it all back together again didnt bother to check and adjust.

Hope that helps - but am sure there will be others on here better informed than me lololol after all am only a female

All the best

roamer · #**112** 23rd-November-2008, 19:02

Td4 intercooler hose failure will give the 2000rpm not above 50 scene, is it smoking bad as well ? missing etc

Greenie · #**113** 23rd-November-2008, 21:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by willo

Why ?? I find it perfectly normal that two parts, supposed to be joined together, (at least meant to) can't fit ?? What else could an Hippo owner otherwise have to moan about ??

Seriously, I find it inexcusable that on a car like a LandRover such a thing can happen. It would be a piece of cake if either the receiving part screwed to the body was straight or else the filter housing was straight but apparently they are not. If both were straight all one needed to do was to position the vertical 'fin' (to avoid the lateral movement of the filterhousing and also to align the two hooks onto the holes in the body) into the slot, than position the two 'hooks' in front of the two foreseen holes and push everything gently together whereafter the filterhousing can be lowered until the hooks reach the bottom of the holes, the weight alone of the complete housing including the filled filter and the pump would keep everything on place, but on top of that there is also an extra screw to keep everything together and in place, so why that special gimmick situation they invented ??
When you introduce that fin in the first place it looks as if it oscilates on something in the middle as either the lower or the upper hook can be introduced into the foreseen hole, but in my case not both at the same time (as it should be), I had a rather hard time to put it upwards when I changed the filter thus there is some restraint down there which makes it so difficult (impossible) to mount it back again afterwards. I understand from MY03 on they installed the fuelfilter in the rear wheelarch ? Is the almost impossible situation in the front the reason for that ?? Shame on LandRover.

Willo... wen yoov taken the filter/pump of as many times as i have,,
you will find it a peice off piss to replace!!

Take orf one end of the pipe that comes frum the pump to filter, (pull
out the filter end) that way you have more room to lift the lot up, un
put on the clips! then replace the pipe afterwards!

Its this small pipe that makes it a bummer tu fit ya filter/pump back on
its bracket! cos it hits the bottom of the ECU box!!

Tip: Some filter canisters are very difficult to remove from the plastic
cup/holder..(another sighn it hasent been changed fu ages!) well, wen
yer have removed it, befor puttin the new wun in, take a hack saw un
put a cut down the lenth of the plastic cup!!
Next time ya change ya filta, ill come out easy!!

Greenie · #**114** 23rd-November-2008, 21:47

Oh Yeah... I am a paperhanger!!! 46yrs!!!

Not any more!!!

krzakx · #**115** 24th-November-2008, 15:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by roamer

Td4 intercooler hose failure will give the 2000rpm not above 50 scene, is it smoking bad as well ? missing etc

No, it is'nt smoking bad/dark. Any idea ? What I have to check ? please keep posting.

willo · #**116** 24th-November-2008, 19:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greenie

Willo... wen yoov taken the filter/pump of as many times as i have,,
you will find it a peice off piss to replace!!

Take orf one end of the pipe that comes frum the pump to filter, (pull
out the filter end) that way you have more room to lift the lot up, un
put on the clips! then replace the pipe afterwards!

Its this small pipe that makes it a bummer tu fit ya filter/pump back on
its bracket! cos it hits the bottom of the ECU box!!

Tip: Some filter canisters are very difficult to remove from the plastic
cup/holder..(another sighn it hasent been changed fu ages!) well, wen
yer have removed it, befor puttin the new wun in, take a hack saw un
put a cut down the lenth of the plastic cup!!
Next time ya change ya filta, ill come out easy!!

Hi Greenie,

Thanks for the info but it's now some 4 years ago I changed that filter, (was a bit hasty as it's supposed to be changed after 5 but couldn't wait....

) but as far as I can remember I had no special problem of taking the old fuel filter out of the canister, it was mainly the plastic whole of the two canisters together which I had problems with in getting it back in place, if my memory is right I took off both of the pipes before I removed that thing and had these pipes only reconnected after I managed, as good as possible, to refit the filter holder (canister), also no problem this was touching the bottom of the ecu box I think ?
Anyway, next change will be in about 2 years, so .......

krzakx · #**117** 26th-November-2008, 21:06

Originally Posted by krzakx View Post

Quote:

I have same problem with my Freelander 2003 2.0 TD4 Automatic,

I can driving max 2000 rmp ! about 50 mph !.

Please help me.

One more think, when I drive about 50-60mph, yellow control light with engine going light on.... when I driving below 50 mph it's switch/light off

Rob Vas · #**118** 31st-July-2009, 09:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by gary lockner

Gave up on Somerset 4X4 as they wouldn't return my calls and hadn't any idea where to go next, they said drop it off and they will keep it until sorted, but no courtesy car and when asked how long they wanted it he said how long is a piece of string !!!
Phoned Taunton L/R Monday and was booked in on Wednesday, they sounded confident so took it down for 10am, by 3pm had a phone call to say it was sorted.
They found the Turbo was over boosting which was caused be the vacuum pipe and a sticking valve to be the cause, they fitted the part (£40+vat) and tested it as OK, he did say it was all pointing to the MAF & air flow meter but as the A.F.M had been changed they went deeper they also noticed the engine was noisy when accelerating this again was down to the turbo over boosting.
All in it cost me £175 including the 15% discount they gave me as a premier customer (not sure why but 15% is 15% !) but I couldn't care less as I drove home on the motorway and it drove just like new, I was even confident enough to put my foot down and overtake in the outside lane.
I would recommend anyone to Taunton L/R the service was excellent and they restored my faith in garages, they dropped me into town whilst they repaired it and a free taxi ride back to collect it, well worth the money.

Hope this helps someone with the same problem as I USED to have.

Gary, didn't notice that your post was Dec 05 (now July 09).

I too had a smoking freelander TD4 when accelerating at any speed, also intermittant loss of power at any speed.

Took your advice and travelled 60 miles to Taunton Landrover. Diagnosed as turbo hose split, both engine breather filters blocked.

When I picked up the car, they had managed to close my sunroof which had been stuck open for about 3 months, fitted a missing LR wheel badge and washed the car FOC. Car is running like new. Service was excellent, total cost £180 inc.

Like you, I cannot fault the service received.

Thanks to all constributors, especially Sherriff 13 Mar (hoses) and Powell 3190 22 Mar (Breather pipes), which gave me some idea of possible causes and what to expect.

Nickfreelanders · #**119** 22nd-March-2010, 11:42

Sorry to hear that you are having the same problems as me. If you sort out your problems I would be grateful if you would let me know.

MarcelWassen · #**120** 13th-July-2010, 08:09

Hello Everyone. This is most likely the longest active thread ever! Probably because it is the most likely problem to have with a freelander(?). Having read all the posts (really? yes really every single of your entries!) I have gathered the following;

The loss of power is happening on the whole range of cars. Diesel, petrol all engines seem to be affected. A lot of the solutions given in the thread may well have fixed the problems for the individuals but the loss of power could be the cause of many problems.

I had the same issue. Not necessarily cutting out at 70mph (although I am not pushing my 1.8 petrol…) but losing power when it needed a little bit more power then usual. Especially going up on hills and when I put my foot down to speed up. I gave it a full service, which it needed anyway, hoping it would resolve it. Although the car ran a lot smoother after it, it still loss power on those crucial moments. I was going to take the fuel system apart to clean and clear any blockages that may be in there. But I did not have the time to do this straight away and when passing the car stuff shelf in Home-base I noticed CarLube Petrol Treatment. (I think that there is a diesel variety too). I had already tried injector cleaner without much luck. As it needs to be inserted on a full petrol tank I decided to fill up with Tesco's Momentum99. Guess what? So far I have not had any problems (touch wood)! Not sure if it is the car lube or momentum that did it but before spending a fortune at garages on parts that are likely not required to be replaced this is a good avenue to go down and try first.

Marcel