Freelander belows out white smoke!

First i'd like to say thanks in advance all and any advice.

My aunt had a freelander 2002 td4 auto. It started white smoking and misfiring like hell. She took to a garage they said it was an injector. So they changed no1 injector. Same problem. They then said it was a sticky valve.

I decided to have it off her for my dad. So done a leak off test of the injectors to start and no3 was ****ing out. So i put the injector taken out of no1 put it in no3. Leak tested it and it was fine.

Still misfiring and smoking like a trooper. So i compression tested each cylinder via the glow plug. 1.2.4 all had equal readings and 3 had no compression at all.
So i took of the head the 2 exhaust valves in cylinder 3 were clogged up with carbon (guessing from no3 injector coughing and spluttering for So long she had been having trouble for a year or so with starting ect).

The engine had 150,000miles and we decided as he was guna keep it for a while we found another lump for 250 with 67,000 on the clock.

So i changed it, starts it up and runs sweet! But it still white smokes like mad and i mean LIKE MAD. I figuered that if unburnt diesel was getting into the exhaust it may take some time to clear out and cud be causing the white smoke. So i reved it up at about 2500 revs for 15/20mins and it seemed to clear abit not much tho. I then turned off came back to it 3 hours later and it was like a steam train again, and had a lil bit of a miss on start up!

Breather filter is new also.


Thanks again for any and all help.

Mark

did you use the same turbo?

I think white smoke is a timing issue - too far retarded or something. On my SIII 2 1/4, I'd be turning the fuel pump left or right - but I supose its electronic on a TD4

Hi thanks for tou replies, yes i used the same turbo i have been thinking that this cud be at fault but i had thought that when turbo was blown it would be black smoke???

I dont think it would be timing as yes its electronic injection and chain was already set up

White smoke with no fuel or oil smell was always HGF or cracked head in my day.

and white smoke is a tell tale sign of turbo problems

teddywood1 said:

and white smoke is a tell tale sign of turbo problems

Click to expand...

If you say so, only ever seen oil smoke from a turbo and it can be smelt.

Ok voolant system isnt presurizing and im not loosin water, i'd have to be pretty unlucky to have the first engine with head gasket and the new one too or cracked head. So looks like i cud be changing the turbo next.

Does anyone no if the turbo's from a rover 75 fit or is it jus the engine the same?

There cheaper on ebay lol

mark, hang on dont be in a rush to be replacing your turbo, (dark oil smoke )
you say its running rough and white smoke ?
1, are you sure the fuel in the tank is good, has it been sitting around for a long time , moisture contaminated ? (drain tank- fresh fuel )
2, try injector cleaner ( fouled injector )
3, pull out the injectors and either have them tested or try my method of testing them in situe,


to test you just remove injectors and reverse the small pipework, no need to remove the cam cover and cam sensor, do a search under injector testing, there are some pics

(QUOTE) Does anyone no if the turbo's from a rover 75 fit or is it jus the engine the same?

There cheaper on ebay lol[/QUOTE]

I know they don't fit.
That's why they're cheaper on Ebay.
See what I did there ?

teddywood1 said:

and white smoke is a tell tale sign of turbo problems

Click to expand...

In my experience when the oil seals in turbo's fail, they can go in one of two ways.

If the seal on the exhaust turbine side fail, you tend to get white oily smoke - the oil vaporises in the hot exhaust gas but doesn't burn as there is no oxygen so you get white smoke and a thick oily smell.

If the seal on the intake turbine side fails, the oil burns in the engine and you tend to get bluey white smoke and a burning oil smell. This is really dangerous as on a diesel the engine can run on the oil alone, if the leak is bad the engine can rev uncontrollably until something breaks (conrod, valve through piston etc.)

I've read that getting the turbo off isn't easy (have to remove transfer box?) would suggest removing the down pipe, if there is black oil in it then you have a knackered turbo.

This all assumes that you engine is healthy otherwise and your low compression problems were not cause by broken piston ring or similar?