Dave Smith's Freelander

Cheers Hippo. My new one should be here mid-week.

Need to get rid of the exhaust fumes next.

davidsmith1307 said:

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P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P1319: [Seat/Audi/Volkswagen] Knock Sensor 1 Circ. Short to Ground

P0138: O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
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Click to expand...

O2 sensor is the oxygen sensor me thinks. The v6 has 3. They're located on/in the eggsource. 1 by each cat. If it's reporting a signal problem and you have eggsource gas at the front, I'm wondering/guessing if one has come oft.

I was hoping that - it sounds like a nice simple problem for the willing beginner. Would also explain that genuine tractor exhaust note I have going down.

If only I hadn't parked the Lander close up against a wall it would be easier!

According to another forum:

If it says Bank 1 sensor 1, "out of range" it's got an air leak after the MAF sensor.

If it's the one after the cat, Bank 1 sensor 2, then it will be air or the cat degrading.

My generic code reader said Bank 1 Sensor 2.

If the engine has had a misfire then could that have clogged the CAT and could that be helped with a bottle of additive?

All sensors are on the eggsource pipe.
There's 1 sensor at the bottom front of the engine = take engine tray oft to see.
Another on the main eggsource pipe as the pipe comes away from the engine bay under the hippo. Sensor on top of pipe = may be able to see this without lifting it
3rd is behind the engine on the wrong side of the eggsource = need to lie under it to see it.

Can supply pic's if needed.

Don't know about additives. Easy option is to look for the gas leak. The gas will kill you if you breath in too much so make sure someone is with you. Put the engine on briefly to see where it's coming from.

I will shuffle the car away from the wall and have a look. It is out in the open so the carbon monoxide should be safe. Want to get this sorted before it goes in the garage.

Fumes seem to be coming from higher rather than lower but that may just be down to where they can escape.

All piccies are welcome!!

Front of engine. Whitish cable.


DSCN1985 MoCdhFW

Main pipe near the vcu after the main cat.


DSCN1990 5EB8G9Y

Rear of engine. Sensor in the middle of the pic.


DSCN1989 yZMNmip

After 3 days clearing out the garage I finally got it all finished.

Hopped in car, turned the key and ticka-ticka-ticka. Battery is flat.

Probably due to the alarm going off twice in the wind.

Have to buy a charger I guess.

They go flat if you leave then for 2 weeks. I've done that before when mine wasn't used. They still draw power from the battery when stationary. Not much but enough to flatten the battery after 2 weeks.

Sod's law. Garage looks great. Car looks great. I just can't get one into t'other.

Halfords or Machine Mart tomorrow me thinks. 8A or 12A charger do you think?

Hal fords site is being updated. I looked at that via goo gle search to get past the barricade and also mac hine mart. I don't see anything I like in mm which is a shame as I've started buy stuff from there a year ago. Hal fords have one I would buy out of the options from those 2 shops.

I use a challenge 11amp automatic charger from arg os which is no longer sold. It has the option of charge, then trickle charge once charged. Also standard or gel batteries. The gel batteries are similar to the normal lead acid type but the acid is suspended in gel to reduce the chance of it coming out when tipped, like oft road. I have a gel battery and I'm starting to see more of them. They don't need topped up. It has LED's showing reverse polarity and charging/charged too. Automatic feature is good as it looks after the charge for you. The one below is similar to the spec of mine but only 8amps. That's enough. To get more amps you have to pay a lot more but batteries can only take a certain charge current. Hence why I got an 11 amp one.

Chargers can pulse charge batteries which gives them a betterer charge. For this reason I recommend you disconnect the battery whilst charging it as electronics don't like voltage pulses. Disconnect the black/negative wire if leaving it in the car. If taking it out the car disconnect the black/negative first, then the red/positive. If you disconnect the negative first it's safer. Reason being catching the negative on the bodywork won't do any harm.

Halfords | Halfords Fully Automatic Battery Charger

That's the one I was looking at. Battery already disconnected on the -ve in case the alarm went off again as its blowing a gale here!

I'll whip it out cos I don't like the idea of battery charger + rain. Car batteries give me the heeby jeebies.

I checked the O2 sensor nearest the VCU today and that looked OK.

As the car is beached on my drive with a flat battery I decided to attack the OSR door. The lock button was stuck right down.

Took the door panel off and the button fell out.

Anyone have a picture if the hidden side of the mechanism so that I can braille the lever back into place? I found the bit that goes up and down but I don't know how the button secures to the moving bit.

davidsmith1307 said:

As the car is beached on my drive with a flat battery I decided to attack the OSR door. The lock button was stuck right down.

Took the door panel off and the button fell out.

Anyone have a picture if the hidden side of the mechanism so that I can braille the lever back into place? I found the bit that goes up and down but I don't know how the button secures to the moving bit.

Click to expand...

Just found the removal and refit instructions in Rave. May have to do this to see what is going on. Will try with a mirror first though.

It should just push into its plastic clip bit.

Nasty feeling that the clip has broken off.