Cylinder head now removed

I removed my cylinder head this afternoon as i'd had a few problems using alot of oil and the latest a water leak, i have few questions as this is the first time i've done this.

I couldn't loosen the bolts on the cam spockets, the cam sprocket holding tool i got didn't help, so i left both spockets on, lossened the two bolts holding the cam belt cover back plate on and lifted the head off along with the plastic back plate, when i un did the cam bearing carrier bolts i was able to pull the camshafts through the plastic back plate, how can i loosen the nuts to remove the sprocket from the camshaft.

What should i use to clean the cylinder head face with to remove all the crud, wire wool, fine wet and dry sandpaper, or should i just use a plastic scraper, what are the best methods of cleaning it up.

Do you need to get the head skimmed each time you change the head gasket as i think it may have been skimmed 4 years ago.

I've ordered a new head gasket and bolts so they should arrive in the next couple of days, so need get it gleaming tomorrow.

With the head turned upside down so you can see the exhaust and inlet valves, the exhasust valves don't seem to sit as flush as the inlet valves is this normal, they seem to stand out a little.

Sorry for all the questions i just want to get it right, i will take and post some some pics tomorrow to see what you think.

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i use these to clean ali heads , exhaust valves have thicker heats to cope with temps, you only skim if necessary

I use petrol to clean the head and block face. A plastic or wooden scraper helps shift stubborn dross. I finish off with a quick spray of carb cleaner to ensure that the surface is oil free.
Never use abrasive papers or wire wool. And only skim if really needed.
To shift the pulley bolts. Try wrapping the pulley with the old belt and gripping the belt in a vise. This should get it loose.

For initial cleaning I use: Kero / turps and an old kitchen pot scrubbing brush. Then I spray on white spirit to get the last of the oily residue off. Plastic wooden/scraper on head face only.

Cam sprockets, I've made my own can sprocket holding / turning levers. See pic's. It works a treat - I saw them mentioned in a manual somewhere Haynes?? The bolts protrude through the cam sprocket spokes and stop the sprocket turning when you undo them - they also get used when you torque the sprocket back up. Easy to make.

If there hasn't been an overheating situation or a blown gasket your head may well be fine to refit - but get it checked.

HG - my penny-worth would be to carefully examine liner heights above the block face using feeler gauges and a metal ruler. All proud and fairly even use a MLS, uneven and or near flush, an elastopolymer gasket.

I will check the liners today, i didn't really have time last night as it gets dark early now and i don't have a garage, i ran my finger across the top of them after i'd removed the head and didn't feel any that were below all seemed to be flush, i will check the block and head today with a steel ruler and feeler gauge.

I'll give all the parts a petrol bath and a good scrub and a spray of carb cleaner to finish.

I got the laser sprocket holder from a local parts shop that is virtually the same as your home made one, even with a mate holding it and me with a beaker bar still couldn't get the nuts un done, i'll have a go with a leather belt and vice.

Thanks for the info.

I cleaned the head this afternoon but it hasn't come up as clean as thought it would, i'll give it another going over tomorrow.

I've posted a couple of pics, you can see four round imprints on the cylinder head, they are slightly scored into the aluminium is this normal or is the sign it as to be skimmed.

I checked the head with a steel ruler and feeler gauge and it seems to be ok just the round score marks i'm concerned about.

I scrubbed and scrubbed the valves but it made little difference, how do you remove the carbon build up, i used parrafin, petrol, and carb cleaner.

it would need skimming ,a decent scraper or those blades i linked to

how does it score there?

pressure from liner through fire ring and numerous heat cycles

Oh, that would make sense. Thanks.

You should have the head checked for hardness / porosity. Use you steel ruler and feeler gauges to check the liner heights protruding above the block face.

How did you get on with removing the cam sprockets?

I managed to loosen the sprockets, they must have been alot tighter than the torque stated in the book.

I've checked the block with a ruler and gauge it seems ok.

With head upside down i poured some soapy water into the crown of cylinders covering both inlet and exhaust valves and blew some air into the intake and exhaust ports and i had bubbles on the exhaust valves on cylinder 1, 2 and 3, bubbles also on the inlet valves on cylinder 2 &3, cylinder 4 was ok, this ties in with the compression test i did a couple of weeks ago, 1,2&3 were 150lbft and 4 was 175lbft.

I've stripped the head removing all the valves and springs ready to get the head skimmed, i will spend some time cleaning the valves and will have a go at grinding them in with some grinding paste and one of the rubber sucker grinding tools, fingers crossed it will be all back together next week.

You can lightly dress the fire ring lands with a domed punch and light hammer. This will harden the ring land and press out any porosity. Don't go to deep though or the surface will never be flat with one skim

Nodge68 said:

You can lightly dress the fire ring lands with a domed punch and light hammer. This will harden the ring land and press out any porosity. Don't go to deep though or the surface will never be flat with one skim

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