Clutch bite point problem

Ere's a different one.

The bite point of the clutch on me L series has always been very low. With the pedel absolutley in the carpet then reverse always crashes, even after waiting several seconds for the input shaft to spin down. During last week I was pikeying around the Isle of Wight and I noticed that I was now getting problems engaging forward gears.

Now I've noticed this morning, when I had to get back into the work thing, that the gears operated fine with no crashing or anything. Obviously everything was cold.

Gonna try a fluid change first. Heard about a weak bracket but not sure if that is on the L series or the K series. I don't want to think about warped flywheels.....

Any other ideas, especially with this apparent thermal link?

Cheers muchly.

I don't think you have a bleed nipple Darmain so changing the fluid is not an option. The symptoms sound the same as i had on our TD4 and that was a hydraulic/travel issue fixed with a fluid change/bleed but your going to have to change the cylinders. As your aware though a weak or bent bracket will give the same symptom of insufficient clearance and it could just be that.
Cylinder set up is a the same for K and L series, there on fleabay for £60 ish.

I recon the thermal expansion of the clutch parts is just too much for the limited travel you have available to disengage the clutch.

Thanks for your thoughts Chaser. I reacon the undertray is coming off this weekend so to see whats what. Will post my findings for the record. Many thanks.

Right, still haven't got round to fixing this one. Well, the clutch still worked din't it? So why have the hassel?

Well, it worked until tonight. Left work in Melksham and drove through the industrial estate when I suddenly thought that if it wasn't my imagination then all the forward gears were stiff to engage. Got out on the ring road and then decided that it was most definately not my imagination.

Trundled on, then a thought struck me. If the higher gears are struggling then what is first gear gonna be like when stationary. I was soon to find out.

I arrived at the largest roundabout in the town and had to stop at the junction as it was very busy. A gap was appearing so I went for first, no gate, all gears, no gate, ****!!

Killed the engine and selected first, started the engine. Okay, pulled out onto roundabout, clutch pedal down and shift to second. Midway through the shift, BANG!! No gate on second, no gate on any gears, clutch pedal no longer resisting me, all drive lost. Double ****!!

Doing about 20 MPH, drastic action need so I steered hard right and went off road onto the large grass centre of the roundabout. Stranded and masses of cars circulating round me. Bollocks!!

About an hour later this was the scene in the centre of the Melksham ring road.



During that hour the passing traffic was treated (or more likely not) to a scene of my arse stuck out of the engine bay as I picked through the wreakage that was my slave cylinder and mounting bracket.

It appears that the mounting bracket has suffered two stress fractures, One let go this evening which caused the slave cylinder to break lose while under pressure. This tore the mounting lugs off the cylinder and caused the piston to exit the cylinder body, ripping the gatter as it went.

The bracket and the hydralics are off the car now and I have a visit with the local independent tomorrow to pick up spares.

The release arm is not siezed so I'm hoping that the bracket is the cause of my clutch problems and that it isn't the pressure plate that is at fault.

Ouch!!!
I'm gonna give you my number mate, check your PM. I take it you were on the Substation roundabout. I could have got there in 5 mins!

I'm at work tonight and finish at 7am if you need a hand getting things sorted out.

Darmain

At least you know what it is now !!!

Noticed some of the sellers on ebay are listing a "modified" or "improved" bracket !!

Not sure how its improved or if its just a selling point !!

Chris

Got all the bits this evening. Cost 66 squid. I was expecting more so I'm not unhappy at that. Right, now to fix it all on and hope for the best. Will let you know what the out come is.

What a result!! He's a different Hippo altogether!!

Right, observatons to make for others who are suffering with clutch drag or a low bite point. Get some one to operate the clutch pedal and you observe the slave cylinder and bracket. There should only be the slightest recoil in the cylinder and bracket and I mean hardly any movement.

The original problem was my cylinder was twisting and recoiling. I had seen that before but thought it normal. It is not!!

Now I can not determine if there was any degridation in the hydralics as yesterdays failure totalled them. However, the bracket was, in my opinion, the primary cause of my low bite point, dragging clutch and crashing gears.

So the noted improvements are -

1. No difficulty in selecting first or reverse.
2. No gear crash then selecting reverse.
3. Bite point about half way up pedal travel, no need to bury the thing.
4. Clutch lighter to operate.
5. The whole gear box is so much easier to work.
6. When I switched off the engine there was a lot of recoil as the engine seemed to twist on its mounts. No more.

Best 66 squid I've spent!!

One happy Hippo!!

One very happy Hippo driver!!

Outstanding stuff........... glad it failed locally and not in pikey mode

Darmain said:

Ere's a different one.

The bite point of the clutch on me L series has always been very low. With the pedel absolutley in the carpet then reverse always crashes, even after waiting several seconds for the input shaft to spin down. During last week I was pikeying around the Isle of Wight and I noticed that I was now getting problems engaging forward gears.

Now I've noticed this morning, when I had to get back into the work thing, that the gears operated fine with no crashing or anything. Obviously everything was cold.

Gonna try a fluid change first. Heard about a weak bracket but not sure if that is on the L series or the K series. I don't want to think about warped flywheels.....

Any other ideas, especially with this apparent thermal link?

Cheers muchly.

Click to expand...

So i just found this thread and it looks like exactly the same problems im having with my freelander mine is a 1.8 petrol 2001 so i dont know if its the same model and i dont fully understand all the technical jargon (although i am trying) was wondering if there anyone knowledgeable in the norwich area who would mind taking a look for me and verifying if i am right, i will of course pay with cake, tea and fuel costs if thats not too cheeky of me. Also i dont expect said person to fix problem for me just to confirm or deny!!!

Hi Guys, i’m also experience a problem getting my FL 1.8 into reverse and 1st/2nd when the engine is warm (less so when cold).

I have replaced the clutch cylinders with aftermarket parts, but strangely it was far worse (crunched into reverse, got stuck, took ages to get it back out), refit the old one and it’s back to how it was before. The aftermarket part was the correct part number for 2001 onwards 1.8 freelander etc but perhaps cheaper for a good reason!

I attach a video of the fitted aftermarket slave cylinder (now removed) - is the amount of movement in the bracket normal or excessive? I didn’t video the original part but did notice similar movement.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sxb92xdabnek8gj/Video 02-07-2018, 23 01 30.mov?dl=0

If it’s not the bracket any ideas? The car is far worse once warm but I wouldn’t say the biting point is generally that low. It seems to be about mid travel...

Thanks in advance

aucky said:

Hi Guys, i’m also experience a problem getting my FL 1.8 into reverse and 1st/2nd when the engine is warm (less so when cold).

I have replaced the clutch cylinders with aftermarket parts, but strangely it was far worse (crunched into reverse, got stuck, took ages to get it back out), refit the old one and it’s back to how it was before. The aftermarket part was the correct part number for 2001 onwards 1.8 freelander etc but perhaps cheaper for a good reason!

I attach a video of the fitted aftermarket slave cylinder (now removed) - is the amount of movement in the bracket normal or excessive? I didn’t video the original part but did notice similar movement.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sxb92xdabnek8gj/Video 02-07-2018, 23 01 30.mov?dl=0

If it’s not the bracket any ideas? The car is far worse once warm but I wouldn’t say the biting point is generally that low. It seems to be about mid travel...

Thanks in advance

Click to expand...

Do a search I believe the after market stuff is worst than a broken one its recommended to use ome on this one from memory

Have you lubricated the lever that the slave pushes. These get very seized causing the bracket to fail in the first place.
It needs to be sprayed with WD40 or similar every day for a week or so then a little engine oil every time you lift the bonnet.