Brake problem freelander K series

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bridger83

New Member
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10
Location
kent
Hi all,

I have recently purchased my Freelander with the fault of the Brake servo needing replacing.

Upon driving home I realised this was correct as there was no assistance to the brakes whatsoever.

I have now replaced the brake servo and master cylinder and bled the brakes through. I now get pressure build up but an air noise from under the pedal and all pressure goes away and I am back down to the floor.

Has anyone else had this problem and know what it could be.. I think it could be the master cylinder leaking however I don't fancy ripping it all again with out being sure?

I am quite familiar with working on engines and cars however my brain is dead at the moment. :doh:
 
It wasn't brand new no, but upon purchased I was told it had been tested etc... There are no obvious signs of leaking anywhere on the brake system.

The only obvious thing is the new air noise when pressing the pedal. It will hold pressure for a few seconds then wallop down on the floor it goes. which although this is an improvement on when I first had it.. it still doesn't help me ha ha
 
I suspect the master cylinder seals have failed. This can happen with second hand brake cylinders. What happens is this. The parts are tested and marked as working. The cylinder is then removed. This removal then allows air to get into the cylinder. The interior of the cylinder is covered on old brake fluid, this old fluid absorbs moisture from the air as it's hygroscopic. Over a period of time a layer of moisture caused corrosion coats the cylinder inner surface. This corrosion is abrasive. Fitting the cylinder onto another car requires lots of bleeding. This literally grinds the seals away, causing the kind of problems you have.
 
I suspect the master cylinder seals have failed. This can happen with second hand brake cylinders. What happens is this. The parts are tested and marked as working. The cylinder is then removed. This removal then allows air to get into the cylinder. The interior of the cylinder is covered on old brake fluid, this old fluid absorbs moisture from the air as it's hygroscopic. Over a period of time a layer of moisture caused corrosion coats the cylinder inner surface. This corrosion is abrasive. Fitting the cylinder onto another car requires lots of bleeding. This literally grinds the seals away, causing the kind of problems you have.

Right ok... so... can this be fixed without purchasing a brand spanking new cylinder?

Thank you for the detailed response so far
 
Does the pedal hit the floor or just before


I had this with a focus other week guy thought mc was fooked but turned out the pedal wasn't hitting the floor it was a about 1cm from it we adjusted all the brakes we could the. Bleed the whole system and found air I. It which explained the long ped travel
 
Right ok... so... can this be fixed without purchasing a brand spanking new cylinder?

Thank you for the detailed response so far

You could use your old master cylinder and the replacement servo. Your old master was obviously ok as the servo had failed.
This is the cheapest option.
 
Does the pedal hit the floor or just before


I had this with a focus other week guy thought mc was fooked but turned out the pedal wasn't hitting the floor it was a about 1cm from it we adjusted all the brakes we could the. Bleed the whole system and found air I. It which explained the long ped travel

Its just before it hits the floor, after the pressure has released again.
 
Does having ABS make it more difficult to bleed brakes?

I prefer doing the maintenance n my Freelander, but when the ABS modulator went on mine I let my known and trusted Landie breakers supply and fit it as I was concerned about bleeding the brakes with ABS. They only charged me 200 quid to supply/fit which helped my decision!
 
Does having ABS make it more difficult to bleed brakes?

I prefer doing the maintenance n my Freelander, but when the ABS modulator went on mine I let my known and trusted Landie breakers supply and fit it as I was concerned about bleeding the brakes with ABS. They only charged me 200 quid to supply/fit which helped my decision!

Nope. ABS equipped brakes bleed just like any other hydraulic system. Sometimes air can get trapped in the modulator valves, but mostly they are easily bled.
 
I always find it best to bleed some fluid through open close open close then pump pedal ten times then open nipple

Have done brakes before where I was at the end of my wick with it then all of a sudden it just bleed and pushed the air out

Hope you cure it
 
I have now change the MC for the original and still the same... stumped at the moment.

Ok. Are you using a 1 man bleed kit or do you have a helper?
If not, find a willing helper. By far the most effective way to bleed the brakes is to open and close the bleed nipples as the peddle is pressed. So nipple open 1/2 a turn, press pedal to the floor, close nipple, allow pedal to return to the top. Repeat as many times as needed for each nipple in turn.
 
I HAVE SUCCESS !!!!!

I just kept bleeding the brakes one by one going round the car, did this 5 times with my missus having the grand job of ensuring the fluid was kept topped up.

I now have full pressure on the pedal and no loss of pressure anymore. So I thank you all that helped me on this as I was ready to just chuck it in a garage.

Brakes can be annoying cant they lol

Now for the whole new exhaust system and belt changes. oh the joys ha ha
 
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