Bonnet release cable snapped. Any ideas??
- Thread starter Oscar22
- Start date
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ianda12
Active Member
- Posts
- 837
- Location
- Gravesend, Kent
As nobody seems to know I opened the bonnet to have a look for you. F***king hell you are in trouble. The only ways I can see of opening it is
1. If you look between the bonnet and the top of the plastic grill below the first R of rover you can just see the catch bolt with the spring around it. Try a hacksaw blade (or pneumatic/ power hacksaw ) and cut through the bolt. It's about 12mm diameter so will be hardwork by hand.
2. Looking through the top slot in the grill, just above the radiator, the catch mechanism has a plastic cover on the bottom of it. About 200mm long and held on with poprivets. If you can smash open the front with a wood chisel, again under the first R you might be able to push the lever across to open the bonnet.
Haven't tried any of these so good luck. I would check the cable hasn't broken by the lever in the footwell first, as you might be able to pull it with pliers if it has.
1. If you look between the bonnet and the top of the plastic grill below the first R of rover you can just see the catch bolt with the spring around it. Try a hacksaw blade (or pneumatic/ power hacksaw ) and cut through the bolt. It's about 12mm diameter so will be hardwork by hand.
2. Looking through the top slot in the grill, just above the radiator, the catch mechanism has a plastic cover on the bottom of it. About 200mm long and held on with poprivets. If you can smash open the front with a wood chisel, again under the first R you might be able to push the lever across to open the bonnet.
Haven't tried any of these so good luck. I would check the cable hasn't broken by the lever in the footwell first, as you might be able to pull it with pliers if it has.
Yep this guys right, they make it that way so you cant get into them, if you can get a couple of wooden wedges into either side of the catch it possibly will lift the bonnet just enough to cut it as described.
freelance
Well-Known Member
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- 8,460
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- essex and beyond
oscar,
i have just joined so hello to anyone who is interested, you need to remove, or cut the solid rivets that hold a plastic cover under the slam panel, on pre face lift models you can view this through top gap in grill. i had do do this end of last year on hippo, i used a long chisel and a fairly weighty hammer. the rivets do tend to pull out rather than break, i think i removed 4 out of 6 rivets this enabled me to flex the plastic cover down and hook on to bonnet release, it is actually very easy, not at all secure, but then again who wants to steal a k series lol
i have just joined so hello to anyone who is interested, you need to remove, or cut the solid rivets that hold a plastic cover under the slam panel, on pre face lift models you can view this through top gap in grill. i had do do this end of last year on hippo, i used a long chisel and a fairly weighty hammer. the rivets do tend to pull out rather than break, i think i removed 4 out of 6 rivets this enabled me to flex the plastic cover down and hook on to bonnet release, it is actually very easy, not at all secure, but then again who wants to steal a k series lol
Blippie
Well-Known Member
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- 1,323
- Location
- Keynsham, Bristol
Any luck yet?
I'm on tenderhooks to find out what happened. And photos please!
Cheers
Blippie
I'm on tenderhooks to find out what happened. And photos please!
Cheers
Blippie
- Posts
- 66,459
- Location
- The Wooly Witch
You may have to ask a recovery agent for their assistance ...
Towing and Vehicle Recovery
as I don't know whereabouts on Malta you are ...
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- Posts
- 3,599
- Location
- Bradford u.k.
when you get the new cable fitted ..
buy a can of motorcycle chain lube and use it to spray some grease on the exposed cable
by the bonnet latch .. that will help prevent the cable end from rusting ..
( it's usually the rust that causes it to snap .. a.f.a.i.k.)
best-o-luck sorting it
buy a can of motorcycle chain lube and use it to spray some grease on the exposed cable
by the bonnet latch .. that will help prevent the cable end from rusting ..
( it's usually the rust that causes it to snap .. a.f.a.i.k.)
best-o-luck sorting it
thanks guys. I think i'll try to pack it as much as possible inside the cable or do you think that would be too much. hope the opening works. do you think i should attempt at opening or wait till i have the new cable at hand just in case?
I was in a state of panic yesterday when i found out
I was in a state of panic yesterday when i found out
- Posts
- 3,599
- Location
- Bradford u.k.
i'd just keep the exposed end of the cable covered ..
as when you operate the cable pull .. some grease will end up inside ..
i don't know the construction of the cable sleeve ..
and years ago .. some throttle cables ( motorcycle ) carried a warning
not to use oil in them .. as it would cause the nylon sleeve to swell and jam the cable
and the reason i suggested motorcycle-chain-lube in a spray can .. is because
generally it's formulated not to fling-off the chain as it rotates ..
and also combats rust ..
the spray can with tube applicator will enable you to apply the grease ..
use a small mirror to get the aim right
i rekon as one drives .. air and water spray will get to that cable end and bonnet catch
and if one drives by a coast-line .. likely to be salty air 'n spray as well ..
which will accelerate rust forming .. ( i grew up on a headland between a harbour and ocean .. anything that could rust .. did ) ..
so once the new cable is on .. just spray some chain-lube onto that bonnet-catch end every once on a while .. hopefully that will prevent it rusting .. and snapping ..
~~~~~
i spray mine every so many weeks .. so far so good .. hasn't caused any problems
~~~
hope all is going well with the replacement procedure ..
Just finished the replacement. what a job!!!! I put some copper paste on the front of the sleeve hopefully will be all ok. One thing i was not sure about...should i get rid of the plastic protector or fix it back?
As my religion says :nopics: Below are some pics. together with the procedure for anyone who might need it
1. Started undoing bolts on the actual bonnet like someone said in one of these threads (size 10)
2. 1st bolt out, 2nd bolt was made of cheese or a similar material, head got rounded off (you might be lucky at this stage and the two bolts come out)
3. Got a spare catch-and-latch
4. Cut existing catch bolt
5. Bonnet pops up as if you have pulled the cable
6. Removed top radiator holds
7. Removed Bumper (4 screws in wheel arch to dismantle gaiter, 1 bolt beneath headlamp size 10 On each side & 4 screws at bottom from valance to sump guard and 3 clips at top of bottom grill)
8. Push radiator backwards and drill the rivets on the plastic cover
9. With a soldering iron, melt the whereabouts of the rivets you cant drill (if you havent taken the rad completely out that is)
10. Undo bolts (size 10) holding spring mechanism
11. re route new cable (loop end to mechanism, pin end to handle in footwell)
12. clip gromit in
13. test
14. re assemble
15. replace or refit catch-and-latch mechanism
16. slacken bottom bolts of latch and slowly close bonnet (this is to re-align the two parts)
17. open bonnet an re-tighten
18. sing alelulia
Hope this has been useful and the too-many-details are for those who are having a go at it. I reckon a garage would charge some good money for this job so worth a go-at
As my religion says :nopics: Below are some pics. together with the procedure for anyone who might need it
1. Started undoing bolts on the actual bonnet like someone said in one of these threads (size 10)
2. 1st bolt out, 2nd bolt was made of cheese or a similar material, head got rounded off (you might be lucky at this stage and the two bolts come out)
3. Got a spare catch-and-latch
4. Cut existing catch bolt
5. Bonnet pops up as if you have pulled the cable
6. Removed top radiator holds
7. Removed Bumper (4 screws in wheel arch to dismantle gaiter, 1 bolt beneath headlamp size 10 On each side & 4 screws at bottom from valance to sump guard and 3 clips at top of bottom grill)
8. Push radiator backwards and drill the rivets on the plastic cover
9. With a soldering iron, melt the whereabouts of the rivets you cant drill (if you havent taken the rad completely out that is)
10. Undo bolts (size 10) holding spring mechanism
11. re route new cable (loop end to mechanism, pin end to handle in footwell)
12. clip gromit in
13. test
14. re assemble
15. replace or refit catch-and-latch mechanism
16. slacken bottom bolts of latch and slowly close bonnet (this is to re-align the two parts)
17. open bonnet an re-tighten
18. sing alelulia
Hope this has been useful and the too-many-details are for those who are having a go at it. I reckon a garage would charge some good money for this job so worth a go-at
Last edited:
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- The Wooly Witch
Well done for having a bash at it - glad it worked well, hope you never have to do it again ...
teddywood1
Well-Known Member
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- 5,558
- Location
- stoke-on-trent
which end did it snap?
Bonnet side, from the length left, the very end, also i did not find the remaining part, must be somewhere in Malta :
:Done! up for approval
kwondo
Member
- Posts
- 46
- Location
- Newport, South Wales, UK
Mine just broke, going to follow your instructions, any idea how long it took to do, cheers
