Advice needed please

Hi all

I have a freelander 1 2001 td4 ,

looks like i may be getting a 2002 freelander 1 v8, for around 100 pounds at not running

BUT it has new tyres all round (and i need new ones) but my question is does anyone know if the alloys are the same pdc and what is the normal size of tyre ?

it also has side steps etc which i can salavage

am i right in thinking that the vcu will not fit :-(

cheers
griff

They didn't do a V8 (nice idea tho..)

Normal fit for the V6 is anything from 195/80/R15 to 215/65/R16 up to a 225/55/R17. There is even a 235/50/R18 in the mix, but have never seen the 18's fitted.

VCU wont be the same if its a V6, but it would be if its a 1.8.

Am sure others on here can help you more.

vcu wont fit if it's from a v6

01/02 is roughly around the time they changed the wheel sizes, just try them on if they clear the calipers your good to go

Wheels will fit, change was on the 2001. Models

its the rear wheels that are a problem,the fronts fit ok....the base of the rim dont fit the drum face properly...about 5 or 6mm of spacer takes care of the problem.

Vcu is the same it just doesn't have the damper on it. That should swap over from your original.

yes im a #### i meant a v6 lol

griff2 said:

Hi all I have a freelander 1 2001 td4

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Did you not have a 1.8 that you did heaps of work on? Or was that a TD4

GrumpyGel said:

Did you not have a 1.8 that you did heaps of work on? Or was that a TD4

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yep thats me lol its a td4 (running good to be honest im well happy with her since i gave her all that TLC )

xamtex said:

its the rear wheels that are a problem,the fronts fit ok....the base of the rim dont fit the drum face properly...about 5 or 6mm of spacer takes care of the problem.

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Older wheels won't clear the front calipers on "newer" cars..they changed the discs to vented instead of solid ...

V6 and Td4 have the same brake setup so the wheels will be fine to swap between the 2 models

even better then ,hopefully the drums on it are good as mine are pritty shotl lol

Dam Dam Dam just had a thought ,the car in question is a AUTO and does not run ,will TOWING it around 500 metres do it any harm?????

a short distance will be ok

If the engines not running the auto won't be pumping oil through itself. Thats not good for an auto even if left in neutral for towing.

cool thats good then, and as for no oil running throw it as long as it not lock up so cant tow thats ok as im in no need for a auto box lol ,but you never know for the short distance it is towed hopefully it will still be ok anyway

Several peeps have come on ere after a breakdown having been towed by local garages and feked their auto. If you want the auto to work and want to tow on the cheap, take the prop oft and lift front wheels only. It's a risk you take.

Hippo said:

Several peeps have come on ere after a breakdown having been towed by local garages and feked their auto. If you want the auto to work and want to tow on the cheap, take the prop oft and lift front wheels only. It's a risk you take.

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My genuine manual (book not gearbox) has the following to say:

Turn starter to position II to enable the lights and indicators etc

Put auto or manual box in neutral..

DO NOT lift two wheels off the ground and tow without disconnecting prop shaft

DO NOT exceed 50 miles or 30mph when towing

It would seem that the knackering thing is towing too far, too fast and absolutely towing with two wheels locked solid, off the ground. Instant VCU destruction.

Do it yourself in neutral all 4 wheels on the road and its fine for short distances at modest speeds

As to having 3rd party company tow, I have followed a car that appeared to have no steering lock, being towed tail up backwards with the steering wheel and steering thrashing madly from side to side.

I would have considered it a write off by the time they had finished.

It says the same in the rave manual but others have had troubles.

cool thanks for all the replies i will tow it very slow for the few 100 metres in need to move it