Advice needed please

in real terms how much / what is 10 ftlb ? esp since i tow a large trailor

Cant tell you this side, but you would probably notice if you had it before to compare.

What i can't understand about the 10% power loss is that if your opening up the whole inlet tract surely that would give you peak torque, as a longer inlet tract is supposed to give you higher torque?.

You might lose top end balls out power as you have lost the shorter tract option, but torque should be always available.

Or am i missing something?.

Not doubting Nodge by the way.

griff2 said:

in real terms how much / what is 10 ftlb ? esp since i tow a large trailor

Click to expand...

It's around a 5% or torque loss at certain engine speeds. This would be 5 to 10 Bhp But where the valves would be open, like at higher revs, there's no loss at all.
Don't forget that the balance valve will still be operational.

Longbolt said:

Cant tell you this side, but you would probably notice if you had it before to compare.

What i can't understand about the 10% power loss is that if your opening up the whole inlet tract surely that would give you peak torque, as a longer inlet tract is supposed to give you higher torque?.

You might lose top end balls out power as you have lost the shorter tract option, but torque should be always available.

Or am i missing something?.

Not doubting Nodge by the way.

Click to expand...

The loss is at low Rpm torque with open power valves. When maximum power is required, the ECU would open the valves, shortening the inlet tract. When the valves are removed, maximum Bhp is available. Most people wouldn't notice the slight torque loss, especially when coupled to the auto box. Fuel economy might suffer slightly, but the V6 drinks like a fish anyway.

Nodge68 said:

The loss is at low Rpm torque with open power valves. When maximum power is required, the ECU would open the valves, shortening the inlet tract. When the valves are removed, maximum Bhp is available. Most people wouldn't notice the slight torque loss, especially when coupled to the auto box. Fuel economy might suffer slightly, but the V6 drinks like a fish anyway.

Click to expand...

Ahh, i see

well in that case SOD it lol there coming out!

i was going to try and make a new light weight bar but been all round where i live (germany ) and know where can help me

so if to be honest seeing ive never drove the car i will not notice the loss i may as well do it

now to remove the valves and try to reseal it ,am i better to leave the vis in place or just make a cover for where it should be

(but its really bugging me i cant get the bits to make my own ,i hate it when the company wins and you cant repair/make!!!!!!!!!!)

griff2 said:

well in that case SOD it lol there coming out!

i was going to try and make a new light weight bar but been all round where i live (germany ) and know where can help me

so if to be honest seeing ive never drove the car i will not notice the loss i may as well do it

now to remove the valves and try to reseal it ,am i better to leave the vis in place or just make a cover for where it should be

(but its really bugging me i cant get the bits to make my own ,i hate it when the company wins and you cant repair/make!!!!!!!!!!)

Click to expand...

Take the valves out by breaking them off at the pivot points. Remove the control rod but refit the motor. Although it won't drive anything anymore, the ECU won't flag a fault so will assume it's all working correctly. Reseal the plenum chamber with quality silicone sealer, applied sparingly, you don't want stray silicone "worms" getting into the engine. Good luck

let the drilling begin

all out

all crap blown back out ,joints cleaned and sanded
sealant on nice and beaded (left for the recommend time)

all screwed down tight (starting in middel out like for a head to try and get even tennision )


leave to dry over night then im prob going to try and run a bead of plastic weld round it (grind the butterflies down to powder or into thin strips so its same grade plastic the use my soldering iron to melt it over the joins ,would that work?)

and also found this had snapped to
(the white rod)


not to sure yet how to repair that lol also what does it do???? looks like some kind of vacume

well a quick glue followed by a melt and reform of split,the wrapped in strong tape ,melted to it incase it ever snaps again ,that way if it does it will still stay together and its all fixed

nice easy fix lol ,next in morning to melt the inlet totaly shut

well let the sealing part to begin lol


does not look to bad in end once i got hang of it ,but you will never see it anyway lol

all done
now just to clean ,rebuild and put the vis things back on and then hopefully jobs a good one and no leaks

PS how will i know if it is leaking? noise or will car just run like a bag of poo?

next the other vis that operates the man flap ,wow thats been opened before!!!!
not resealed right and full of oily ****!!!
all cleaned now and resealed and fitted

and seeing its raining again!!!!! (god must hate me !!!)

ive now started to clean the throttle body with carb cleaner as i cant do anything else lol ,but it def needs it ,has a good build up of crap in it

look at the crap that came out of my throttle body
just refit now ,all back in one piece

well refitted and


but then


and then even stranger after restart



but then i rev it and :-( all of a sudden a very high pitch whilse noise :-(

no no no a fu..ing air leak :0( wiped the engine cover back off and found the leak ,but dont think its from my mod ,will no more tomorrow


been all over for clip but not found yet :-(