2003 Freelander TD4 Leaking Engine Fuel Pump

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Ok stripped everything out and fitted new seals in the pump, everything went smoothly. I made sure I put the little metal washers the right way. However when everything was put back together it leaked pretty bad. I can't figure out why this could be,though I did read someone had the same issue and they put it down to them putting the washers/seals in the casing instead of on the loose metal shaft....this is how I did it. For those in the know, are you supposed to put the seals on the shaft/rod instead of in the casing?
 
Great reply Thank you! Can I just make sure I am removing the right nut....After removing the 17mm access plug there is then a 21mm nut inside. Am I right in thinking this needs to be removed before the special tool is fitted?

HI Sorry
most likely to late now but the answer is yes pics attached ;)
 

Attachments

  • SDC16732.JPG
    SDC16732.JPG
    86.1 KB · Views: 657
  • SDC16733.JPG
    SDC16733.JPG
    125.2 KB · Views: 579
  • SDC16736.JPG
    SDC16736.JPG
    155.4 KB · Views: 571
  • SDC16744.JPG
    SDC16744.JPG
    148.9 KB · Views: 621
  • SDC16745.JPG
    SDC16745.JPG
    179.5 KB · Views: 685
  • SDC16746.JPG
    SDC16746.JPG
    173.1 KB · Views: 524
For those of you thinking of doing this and are unsure, save yourselves the hassle and go to a garage or get a reconditioned part.
For whatever reason my pump still leaks even after taking it apart 3 times and checking the seals.
I don't have a problem removing the pump, but the repair of it is best left to the professionals who can test it for you before instead finding you still have a leak after reinstalling it.
 
I just got mine back from the garage again and all fixed now, was a faulty valve in the pump, sorted free of charge and they even washed the car too.
 
I've just had a new high pressure fuel pump on my td4 and when I go to start car after leaving it a few hours the revs are up and down to near on stalling. After about 30 seconds it's fine and runs okay. Going to take it back to garage who did it but would I be right that the timing is out on the pump? Getting fed up with this car.
 
hi there guys i have just joined the forum and i need your help.i have a freelander td4 se 2004 (04) reg.it has done 115,000 miles however has only had 1 owner from new and has full service history.it is my first land rover as i have been a mitsubishi fan for the past 12 years.over the weekend the high pressure fuel pump failed and started leaking causing the car to brake down.the local small garage have tried to re seal it but could not do it properly due to not being able to remove the pump because of the amount of metalwork and engine sourrounding and attached to the pump bracket.i have contacted a relativly local land rover specialist however they have said they will only fit a brand new part @ £450+ plus labour so around £850 ish.i asked if they would fit a reconditioned part but they said because of the awkwardness of the job they will only fit new part as they dont want to have to do it again.
doing it myself is out of the question as i do not have the know how for such a technical job even with a manual and step by step guide i know i would just balls it up.plus i dont have the time or patience for such a fiddly job.
is there anyone in the north west (manchester area) that can/will. undertake it or know of anyone that would be prepared to do the job ?
i just dont really want to pay £850 if i can get just find someone to fit a recon.
thank for any advice.
 
Fitting a recon part may half the cost of the pump - but the labour will be the same - so you'll be paying £650 instead of £850. Is this really the saving you are after? If you want to save a decent amount, then you by the parts to recondition your pump (I don't know how much they are, lets say £50) and do it yourself.

When my transmission had problems I was quoted £3,500 for parts before labour. So I bought the parts to recon it for £150 and learn't which end of a spanner to hold. Its been running fine for the 3 years since. So anyone can fix things themselves if they want to save some money.

There are plenty of threads on here where people have reconditioned their fuel pumps - so there's info on how to do it and people to give you advice before you start and any problems you come across.

Saying "doing it myself is out of the question as i do not have the know how" is not a reason to not do it yourself - it is an often used excuse. If you do not WANT to do it, that is fair enough - you will need to pay someone, what looks to be, fairly close to £850 to do the job.
 
than
Fitting a recon part may half the cost of the pump - but the labour will be the same - so you'll be paying £650 instead of £850. Is this really the saving you are after? If you want to save a decent amount, then you by the parts to recondition your pump (I don't know how much they are, lets say £50) and do it yourself.

When my transmission had problems I was quoted £3,500 for parts before labour. So I bought the parts to recon it for £150 and learn't which end of a spanner to hold. Its been running fine for the 3 years since. So anyone can fix things themselves if they want to save some money.

There are plenty of threads on here where people have reconditioned their fuel pumps - so there's info on how to do it and people to give you advice before you start and any problems you come across.

Saying "doing it myself is out of the question as i do not have the know how" is not a reason to not do it yourself - it is an often used excuse. If you do not WANT to do it, that is fair enough - you will need to pay someone, what looks to be, fairly close to £850 to do the job.


thanks for the advice it is much appreciated.however a local engine specialist has agreed to fit the recon pump for £290 labour so with the part aswell it will be about £420.
i dont have the time to undertake a job like this and this is my main car not some project in bits strewn all over the council garden.i need it done asap so getting someone who knows how to do it is going to be quicker than reading the land rover for dummies book and risking further cost with short patience and the usual being left with 4 screws and wondering where they came from.
 
Last edited:
Saying "doing it myself is out of the question as i do not have the know how" is not a reason to not do it yourself - it is an often used excuse. If you do not WANT to do it, that is fair enough - you will need to pay someone, what looks to be, fairly close to £850 to do the job.

Too true. If I had a pound for every time we hear that on this forum... `It's an unfortunately circular argument - you don't attempt these jobs because you don't have the know-how, but you don't have the know-how because you don't attempt these jobs.

That said, maybe an HP pump recon is not the best job to start off on. Start with oil, filters and brakes and move from there - your skills and tool chest will expand exponentially. That is, unless you are rich enough to afford £40-90 an hour labour charges, in which case forget all I've said.

As encouragement - I spent an enjoyable 4 hours on a Saturday afternoon doing my HP pump. The seal kit was about £30, and the special tool needed (which I can sell on or re-use) was about £40. £70 all in versus £420... Hmmmm.
 
I have been doing the fuel pump in my td4 over the last week so far in 20 mins here and there when free there's just one nut left to undo I can't see it though , not sure how much longer it will be off the road ( been a month already) this was my daily drive but luckily not the only car

Now removed the pump , anyone reads anywhere "you don't need to remove starter motor " in my experience must remove starter motor otherwise you will never find that last nut
 
Last edited:
Back
Top