2003 Freelander TD4 Leaking Engine Fuel Pump

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Is that the nut that is holding the sprocket on, that turns the fuel pump? Mine was very tight, I used a 1foot 3/8 braker bar with a 20mm spanner as an extra leaver. I can't remember having an issue with it turning and not undoing the nut mate.

Does the Haynes mention anything about it?
 
Is that the nut that is holding the sprocket on, that turns the fuel pump? Mine was very tight, I used a 1foot 3/8 braker bar with a 20mm spanner as an extra leaver. I can't remember having an issue with it turning and not undoing the nut mate.

Does the Haynes mention anything about it?
That is what is interesting. Both the Haynes manual and the Rave manual just state "remove the nut from the sprocket" and makes no mention of having to do anything different.

I will have another bash shortly and try a longer bar.
 
Thanks everyone for their help with this task. I can happily close this topic by saying the TD4 is back on the road again having serviced the HP diesel pump.

Well chuffed and now feel confident to tackle further jobs in the future. Plus I saved ourselves another monster car bill.

Thanks again, really appreciated!
 
I had mine replaced at a bosch service garage , 2 months after , it leaked same as before :eek: took it back and job was done again , 6 months on its ok , i check it every week !
 
Removal of the HP pump doesn't affect the timing as long as you use the correct pulley/keeper tool. Injection timing is done electronically. The HP pump doesn't need replacing in any special position.
 
I seem to have the same problem. 2005 TD4 Diesel leaking from HP fuel pump when cold but stops when warmed up. it seems to fair poor out when first started.
I have had local mechanic take a look and confirms its the fuel pump valve cover plate area that the fuel escapes.

Does anyone know a competent place to get pump off and replace the seals and refit in Keighley Halifax Bradford area ? as the guys i use locally don't fancy it so i guess they don't have the removal tools.
I have rung a couple of spots, power-line.co.uk wants to replace/exchange the pump at about £600 and a few others a little more than that.

Cheers
Steve
 
Hi you could undertake this job your self if you so wished and save yourself a lot of money, quite a few members of the R75 club have done this, below are a few links including some PDF Arctic2

Tool needed I have the first one
ROVER 75 M47 DIESEL PUMP PULLER SPROCKET REMOVAL TOOL | eBay

Second choice
BMW M47 M57 tu LAND ROVER TD4 DIESEL INJECTION PUMP PULLER SPROCKET REMOVAL TOOL | eBay

Gasket
Gasket-injection pump-diesel engine - Genuine MG Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

repair kits choice of
CP1 Pump Repair Kit - Universal Bosch Common Rail Fuel Pump Seal Kit | eBay

Breedon and Gell BOSCH F01M101454 Repair Kit £21.25 FREE POSTAGE

PDF's
Attached Files
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HP Pump removal and refiting.pdf
Attached Files
pdf.gif
CP1 page 1.pdf
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CP1 page 2.pdf
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CP1 Page 3.pdf

most of it can be found here albeit related to the R75 M47 engine

High pressure pump refurb - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums
 
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Hi, ive just replaced the pump and used the landrover tool , i cant get engine to run turning over but wont fire up any suggestions as to what to do please
 
hi, its me i didnt push electrical connector back in right on pump , sorted now and back on road this site was really helpful thanks
 
Hello guys,

Could those of you who have had experience removing the fuel pump tell me where to fit the timing securing socket?
I am about to attempt this tomorrow and am making very sure I am doing what I should be before commencing, to me this is the most important bit.

Thanks
 
I had mine done at a bosch garage 3 weeks ago and its leaking again. Stern words will be had in the morning.
 
Ouch I bet that was expensive! At least it's under warranty!
I just cant seem to find a walkthrough where you place the timing chain securing nut!
 
Hello guys,

Could those of you who have had experience removing the fuel pump tell me where to fit the timing securing socket?
I am about to attempt this tomorrow and am making very sure I am doing what I should be before commencing, to me this is the most important bit.

Thanks


Hi this may help disconnect the battery negative lead, then remove the intake manifold, remove the starter motor, undo the bolts securing the upper tie -rod to the right hand engine mounting bracket.

Remove the under tray, position a jack underneath the engine, with a block of wood on the jack head and take the weight of the engine.

Unscrew the four bolts and one nut securing the right-hand engine mounting bracket to the engine and Hydramount you may have to remove auxiliary drive belt.

Using a 17mm Allen key or a bolts with a couple of nuts locked onto it, unscrew the large access plug in the timing chain cover, the seal should be really renewed.

Slacken and remove the fuel pump sprocket nut.

Now screw land Rover tool LRT 12-178/1 into the timing chain cover, then screw Land rover tool LRT12-178 into the pump drive sprocket.

Carefully tighten the centre bolt of the tool, and free the sprocket from the pump.

hopefully you will have removed the wiring plug from the fuel pump beforehand, and removed the bolt securing the fuel pipe bracket to the oil filter housing.

Remove the bolt securing the fuel pipe to the coolant rail.
Put some cloths under the fuel pump, then release the retaining clips and disconnect the fuel hoses from the pump.

Undo the two union nuts, and remove the two high-pressure fuel pipe from the fuel pump to the common fuel rail.

Disconnect the wiring plugs from No1 & 2 glow plugs.

Now undo the three mounting nuts and remove the fuel pump, discard the gasket as a new one must be used.

Refitting is reversal but making sure that mating surfaces of the pump and engine are clean and dry and fit the new pump gasket.

Position the fuel pump, and tighten the mounting nuts to the specified torque.

Re-fit the glow lugs.

Ensure the high-pressure fuel pipe unions are clean and refit the pipe, tighten the unions to the right specified torque.

Reconnect the fuel hoses to the pump, and secure them in place with the retaining clips.

Refit the bolts securing the fuel pipes to the oil filter housing and coolant rail.

Reconnect the wiring plug to the fuel pump.

The land rover special tool used to release the fuel pump drive sprocket and hold the sprocket in position, can now be unscrewed slowly and carefully, and then refit and tighten the sprocket retaining nut to the specified torque.

Make sure the timing cover access plug is clean and use a new seal if you have one, again as always tighten to the specified torque.

Refit the auxiliary drive belt.

Refit the right hand engine mounting bracket to the Hydramount and the engine.

Fit the bolts and nuts tighten to specified torque.

Refit the upper tie rod to the engine mounting bracket and tighten the bolt, remove the jack refit the under tray.

Refit the starter motor.

Refit intake manifold.

Reconnect the battery negative lead.

Prime the pump by putting the ignition to II turn it off repeat this a few times, turn it off once more then follow below.

Depress the accelerator pedal to the floor then start the engine as normal it may take longer than usual if so operate the starter in 10 second bursts with at least 5 second rests in between, once started run the engine at fast idle to purge any remaining trapped air from the fuel lines, the engine then should idle smoothly at a constant 850rpm

Good luck and please report back maybe taking photo's as you go through the job ;)
Attached Files
pdf.gif
HP Pump removal and refiting.pdf
 
Great reply Thank you! Can I just make sure I am removing the right nut....After removing the 17mm access plug there is then a 21mm nut inside. Am I right in thinking this needs to be removed before the special tool is fitted?
 
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