2003 Freelander engine code help!!!!

I recently purchased an 03 freelander with a recent engine replacement. It had the "bang" sound from the rear that I belive to be a bushing. Now the engine light is on and reads the following codes. Not sure where to start to fix this issue and we do not have a LR shop in the area. They symptoms are poor idle, slow starting (10 seconds of crank to fire), rough down shift when braking (which creates the "bang" from somewhere in the rearend.

P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Low Out of Range Fault
1471 is vis balance valve motor valve always closed
P1477 Land Rover Variable inlet manifold motor 2.Short circuit to ground / open circuit
P0715 - Transmission Input/Turbine Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio

If you got it from a dealer, take it back as not fit for purpose.

The bang noise is usually the rear differential mount especially if it happen when the transmission is shifting.

Some of the p codes appear to be a V6 vis motors. Do you have a V6?

The other seems to be transmission When you post more details on what you want to do and the kind of freelander we can look into this further. And what options.

Yes its a V6 SE. Local shop told me it could be the transmission speed sensor. It shifts fine until your slowing to a stop then its a rough downshift. Could the speed sensor be what caused the codes minus the mass air flow? It runs great once you get it warmed up only idles poorly when you first start it.

And its an automatic. Is there a way to tell if it is the speed sensor?

MAF V6 are usually NAS spec (North American). Do you want information to give to a garage or do you want to fix yourself?

What is most important to you? Fix all the errors in the code reader? Fix the other issues you mentioned?

I own a 2002 NAS KV6 Freelander and live in Canada, so I can tailor my answer based on how much reading/fixing you want to do yourself and where to find aftermarket parts for a Freelander.

To get you started, regarding the diff mount:


Hippo wrote an excellent guide:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f69/rear-diff-mount-replacement-how-guide-101774.html

Partnumber for the whole diff mount (use google to find someone selling one near you):
KHC500070
(old part number KHC100570)


Just the bushing:
Febest - Land Rover Arm Bushing Rear Differential Mount
http://www.amazon.com/Febest-Rover-Bushing-Differential-Khc100570/dp/B00C6MXN90

Thanks alot. I would like to do it myself as much as possible. I do have a friend that is a machanic to help with the repairs. Im in Missouri and not near a LR deler so I will need to order an parts. Just want to know what parts I need to order to address the issues.

P1471
P1477

Those two codes are part of the Variable Inlet System (VIS) of the inlet(intake for our side of the atlantic) part of the KV6 engine.

I have the same issue on my Freelander. I do not worry about them as they mean a few less HP at top RPM and some rattle at lower end.

MKE100102L
MKE100110L

These are the part numbers for the motors. But it might not be all, you might also need a new inlet manifold chamber.

Thread on the repair of some VIS motors:
MG ZT / Rover 75 - VIS Valve Motor: How to? - MG-Rover.org Forums


Great thread here on the rattle:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/v6-inlet-manifold-rattle-24606.html

Regarding
P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor Low Out of Range Fault

The MAF sensor might need cleaning or replacing

This guy has a great video on how to clean MAF in general.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQGSkWEC_u4

It might also mean your PCV pipes (the black thin ones under the engine cover) are broken somewhere. Again I know a few aftermarket places to order things, I do not like paying shipping from the UK.

I would start by looking at pipes for cracks and then cleaning the MAF next. Clear the codes, then re-test. I would not buy a new MAF sensor just yet.

What do you use for code reader?

I went to an auto parts store and had the codes read

Last part regarding shifting. Part of this is the diff mount making it seem shift hard (at least it did for me)

If it still gives you issue, we then need to look at the Jatco transmission:

P0715
P0730

This will involve testing solenoids for resistance values using a volt meter, lots on this forum on this. Might involve more, Jatco of that era sometime had an issue with a piston getting cracked.

The good news is that the same transmission is used by volkwagen and Mazda so there is lots of information and parts and rebuilders on this site of the Atlantic. Might not need all that, might just need fluid change (Again lots on this forum on this)

Search thread on here on transmission or automatic.

Thanks for all the help. Plan to work on it Saterday. I will post the results

cr1543 said:

Thanks for all the help. Plan to work on it Saterday. I will post the results

Click to expand...

Any updates ?

I cleaned the mass air flow sensor which fixed the issue with the idle. Replaced the dif mount which was in very bad shape which fixed the "clunk". It drove great for a test drive then started down shifting rough again, and displayed F4 rather than drive. The next project i plan to complete is the soldering VIS motors. Would that be what is causing the F4 error? If so where are they located?

VIS motors have nothing to do with the transmission

I would do these last. This video shows the issue could be with the manifold chamber instead (look at the "play" shown)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bTvxwn0x6dQ

Google for KV6 VIS Motor repairs. There are tons and tons on the subject.





Regarding the transmission:

I would use a multi-meter and test the solenoid as first step. Post your results:

See this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A

I would also edit the first post and change it to a tag of Freelander 1 instead of 2 to get more people to look at this. I am surprised Nodge68 or Hippo have not said anything yet.

I will test the solenoid as soon as I can and post the results

zefrench said:

I would also edit the first post and change it to a tag of Freelander 1 instead of 2 to get more people to look at this. I am surprised Nodge68 or Hippo have not said anything yet.

Click to expand...

I'm here
Zefrench. I noticed you are using your Freelander with failed VIS motors. Did you know that you are loosing around 20 ftlb of torque between 2000 and 4000 rpm and over 5500 rpm because of that? It doesn't seem much but it really affects your gas milage!!
There's lots on how to fix them. Once fixed, I drill a 0.5mm hole in the top of each motor casing, this keeps the oil out.
Back to this auto. F4 indicates a fault that can cause damage to the box. Ideally the F4 code needs reading to find the cause. Once you know what has thrown the code, you have a better chance of getting it sorted.

Just finished testing them. all were very close to specifications with the exception of 3 that I could not get a reading on. The meter jumped up and down and would not give a reading. The three that the meter would not read are Shift solenoid valve A, line pressure solenoid valve, and shift valve solenoid C. Not sure if the fact that the reading would not work equals these are the issue or not?