Wtf? (eka)

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gR@HaM

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,095
Location
Cheshire
So, feel like Ive been here before some time ago.
Just gone to fit a new battery and as expected couldn't start the disco up due to imobiliser (red key symbol flashing).
To get around this I would normally bypass imobilser by inputting EKA code, thus temporarily deactivating imobiliser until battery is next disconnected.
However numerous attempts of inputting the key sequence I realised that had left bonnet open (normally stick a weight on the push switch).
So, according to LR book after 3 failed attempts it locks out for 30mins. Left it for a good hour, even subjected myself to some 'I'm a celebrity' but STILL can't bypass immobiliser.
Any ideas WTF is going on? Can normally use EKA code with no issues, in fact it's been my security measure when parking in dodgy places, so why it not worky no more? :(
 
Left over night and still no joy, shall try disconnecting after work and refitting the old battery.
Anyone know if the wrong battery could cause issues ?
 
Car battery? Nope, the immobiliser just want's some voltage between about 6 and 14v and and some current to run it. A 9v battery will keep the immobiliser going.
 
EKA code?

I've disconnected and reconnected my battery a number of times, without needing the code. I am guessing you have a 300TDI from the avatar, even though you don't say. Early Disco 1s are 1 button remote and later are 2 button (lock and unlock). Also the later ones have battery back up in the alarm, so it goes off if you disconnect the battery. There's a procedure for avoiding this, like turning the ignition on then off, then disconnecting a terminal off the battery within 15 seconds.

Maybe the fact that you need an EKA code means some other part of the immobiliser and alarm isn't working, and with the battery replacement its locked up and the way to unlock it is with the bit thats broken - ie you've stuffed it good & proper.

Don't want to leave it on a negative note but scratching around for ideas - complete bypass???
 
The reason I'm quite familiar with the EKA code is because my fob doesn't work, therefore the only way I've ever managed to get around the imobilser is to use the code.
Have disconnected the battery for long periods of time in the past with no issues, for some reason since changing the battery the disco won't take the code.
I'm stumped (walks off muttering) stoopid fookin thing
 
Nope only the one 2button fob and key which I got cut at LR as the one which came with car is cracked
 
This evening has gone a bit better..
It seems that when the immobiliser locks out (i.e after 3 failed attempts with EKA) the battery needs to be disconnected for 30mins to reset.
Hope this helps any other numptys out there who may have the same problem in the future.
And on a plus side I managed to eventually convince Halfrauds that they sold me a dodgy battery and got me money back - that'll show 'em!!!!

Oh yeah.. and disco starts up fine now I know about preheating and the need to wait for glowplug light to go out. I don't feel stupid (much..)
 
Oo and added an additional earth from -ve to top bolt on fuel pump which seems to help with cranking, thanks for the pointer.

The issue with 'Check Engine' light has now reared it's ugly head again, now when pretty much going over any bump in the road - but that's another story
 
I don't even have a fob with mine, niether to i need input any code after the battery has been removed??? . Althou the alarm and imm works just fine any ideas.

Lastly having owned to alfa 155's i'm shocked that you aren't used to electrical problems lol. Injecter warning light on both of mine atleast once a week lol.
 
It's just above temp guage on LHS of dash.
Doing some searching on LZ, the light may be due to an EDC sensor fault.
Strange thing is it never came on this morning on me way to work so it's intermitent
 
I don't even have a fob with mine, niether to i need input any code after the battery has been removed??? . Althou the alarm and imm works just fine any ideas.

Lastly having owned to alfa 155's i'm shocked that you aren't used to electrical problems lol. Injecter warning light on both of mine atleast once a week lol.

Tell me about it, took 2 years to get rid of the engine management light - and that was after taking engine out to fit a new diff!!
 
does it come on as a check when you turn ignition on?

hello mate, tbh Ive never noticed the light on startup.
I checked today and it did appear on first switching ignition on and then go out - but this time the engine light wasn't coming on even when hitting the hardest of bumps at high speed. Normally when the light flashes it results in engine momentarily cutting out, which isn't noticable when not accelerating, but if foot is on the pedal then results in a heavy jerking when engine cuts back in again.
Worst case scenario, and it's only happened a couple of times - the car stalls. Not good when travelling at speed, having to stop the car and select park before restarting!
 
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