TD5 EGR Blanking Plate Fitting - My Tips

Well, finally did it last night. Hard to tell much difference but then I've only popped to Tescos so far. Got a good run coming up on Thursday so will repot more back then.

I'm not the most mechanically minded person but I'm not totally stupid and I found it reasonbly easy. I hope these aren't stating the bleedin' obvious, but here are my tips.

1. You can use WD40 to soak onto the bolts but they seem to come out fairly easily
2. None of the instructions I saw anywhere mentioned removing the radiator/fan cover. They only mentioned the engine cover. Obviously you have to remove the engine cover but if you take the radiator one off to it means you can get a hex bit on a 6"extension bar on a wrench and feed your way through to the bolts. I couldn't find a way of getting at the bolts using just a normal allen key
3. The wrench will sit between the blades of the fan when you're using it, with the extension feeding through the gaps in the EGR pipework to the bolts. You should really disconnect the battery to be completely safe when working like this. But make sure you've got your radio code!
4. With the bolts out, and the end of the EGR pipe 'disconnected' from the exhaust I found that loosening the bracket holding the EGR system to the engine block allowed me to slide the blanking plate down more easily.
5. With the blanking plate in place, if you nip the aforementioned bracket up again a bit it should hold it roughly in place by friction
6. If you then replace the 'top' bolt through the EGR pipe and via the new plate into the engine block, but don't tighten it fully, you can put a screwdriver through the bottom hole to help you make sure that the bottom hole in the blanking plate is also lined up and ready for the bolt to be replaced. If you have the top bolt too tight, the bottom part of the plate won't pivot into line. Too loose and it will swing around.
7. Make sure you do a little backwards turn when replacing the bolts to make them seat correctly so you don't thread the bolts (or worse, the engine block!). Magnetic bits are very useful.
8. Don't forget to fully tighten the bracket holding the EGR system on before you put everything back together.
9. Listen for any hissing of exhaust leaking through the new EGR/Blanking Plate sandwich to make sure you've got it all tight.

Hope this helps in some way, like I say sorry if it's all old news ... It's just stuff that I would have liked to have been told on top of the instructions I had.

James

Hope this helps in some way, like I say sorry if it's all old news ... It's just stuff that I would have liked to have been told on top of the instructions I had.

James

James,
That was perfect.
LandyZone should make a book, and that would be the chapter on Disco EGR.

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

James,
That was perfect.
LandyZone should make a book, and that would be the chapter on Disco EGR.

CharlesY

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Thanks

Hi just read you're guide and have got one comming from e-bay will be using this when it turns up thanks.

CharlesY said:

.


James,
That was perfect.
LandyZone should make a book, and that would be the chapter on Disco EGR.

CharlesY

Click to expand...

Blanked mine (TD5) yesterday. Not had chance to check mpg yet, but the difference is already spectacular - engine smoother, quieter and far more responsive, especially starting from cold. Reckon the valve must have been stuck wide open. Huge thanks to all who have recommended this, especially James for the instructions.
Just one note of caution - I'm not sure I'd recommend diy to anyone with no mechanical experience, as it's not just a bolt-on job. You need specialist tools (allen key sockets and correct extension) and fitting the plate complete with gasket was pretty fiddly.

Makes a difference eh...?

next job is to remove the rest of the intake and get down with some mollases, oh, and flush the intercooler...

PASTMASTER said:

You need specialist tools (allen key sockets and correct extension) and fitting the plate complete with gasket was pretty fiddly.

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Gasket? What gasket would that be?

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

Gasket? What gasket would that be?

CharlesY

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I think some kits do come with a gasket to go between plate and block. Mine didn't.

James

James W said:

I think some kits do come with a gasket to go between plate and block. Mine didn't.

James

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just wondering...did you rip the whole unit out and replace the inlet pipe as well?

James W said:

I think some kits do come with a gasket to go between plate and block. Mine didn't.

James

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Mine came from Phillip Senior off e-bay with a gasket to go between plate and manifold. Also two slightly longer SS bolts (manual says you should always replace the originals). Tempting to take the lot out but I'm a bit stuffed at present as I can't get the engine cover off! Captive nut on driver's side is turning and I can't get at it. Performance improvement is so good that I'm just happy as it is.

Made a small plate from a piece of stainless steel,inserted at end of intercooler pipe and valve. All it involved was the two bolts ,and the whole caboodle is left in situ.Same results achieved .10 minute job . The main result is the EGR is still fitted,blanking effect achieved.

It is better (at least in theory!) to blank the EGR at the exhaust manifold end. This would ensure there was no chance of resonation setting up in the EGR pipe, which might get noisy, and detract a little from the turbo effort.

In practice it probably doesn't matter, but worth keeping in mind.

CharlesY

James

Thanks for taking the time to write this up. I was looking at this job and had exactly the same questions as you.

Your description was most helpful and turned this into a really easy task. A bit fiddly but definitely DIY.

I used an el cheapo ratchet screw driver and bit set with a 5mm hex bit to get the EGR bolts out at the manifold. These bolts weren't too tight and being able to angle the screw driver was ideal for the bolt nearest the engine block.

Loosening off the EGR pipe clamp a bit was a good tip to keep pressure on plate and gasket, then using a screw driver to line up the holes.

Watch you don't drop the bolt for the EGR pipe clamp down into the engine like I did though. I hadn't it tight enough and it broke free when I moved the pipe a bit.

Looking forward to testing it now.

Cheers

Andy

Just like to say thanks for that write up, it helped alot and i'v already noticed the differance in the performace.

Cheers. Dave

Gone_Surfing said:

Just like to say thanks for that write up, it helped alot and i'v already noticed the differance in the performace.

Cheers. Dave

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If you think that feels good, wait til you wash out the 'cooler, de-catt the downpipe and install a straight-thru centre section

Hi thebiglad,

How do you de cat the down pipe on a TD5??

Thanks Ray

Springbok said:

Hi thebiglad,

How do you de cat the down pipe on a TD5??

Thanks Ray

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Hi Ray, I don't know as I've never done it - is there a cat in the downpipe? If there is, is there a non-cat version available?

Sorry I can't be of further help, if you can find answers to these two questions can you post them on here please

Cheers
Dave

De cat pipe will be of a 2001 model td5 - just fit and go!

Remember to disconnect the vacuum pipe to the EGR switch and block it with a self-tapper else the EGR valve will still open and close and let pressurised air out of the intake manifold. Or better still, throw the EGR switch away. Better still, throw the steel pipe away and even better, change the alloy EGR unit for one with no internal restriction.

I better do that as i just fitted the plate - oops