strange squeaking diagnosis help please!

Hi all!

right here goes.... there are two squeaking sounds that have devloped over the last week which i cant put my finger on. one sounds a bit like a squeaky fan belt but checked all the belts and they are fine

The second one sounds like a dry bearing but as im new to disco's i dont know where to start looking.

Its affceted by road speed but disapers when coasting so im guessing its not a wheel bearing and its at its worst when you change gear it only squeaks under load.... it sounds like its either coming from the front diff or from the front pasenger side.

Im guessing the first thing to do is to change the oil in the front diff and see if it helps

any help would be greatly appriciated

Thanks in advance and happy new year!

Search 'penny trick'

In fact..here you go...i'm off for a kip.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/300tdi-squeeling-belt-penny-trick-64595.html

oh yeah its a 200tdi 3 door 1993 manual

Cheers storm will do!

assuming its a 300 tdi here.
do a search for the penny trick.

regardless of model, check the universal joints on the front and rear propshafts for wobble. chock the wheels, leave in neatral, handbrake off, grab hold of prop and pull up n down, swing side to side. there should be no movement other than an inch or two of rotary movement of the complete thing.

then grease them.

if theres movement, replace them.

ok silly question time is it the larger bolt in the center of the tensioner (14ml) or the smaller one under where the penny goes (8 or 10ml) im guessing the sizes from the pictures as its hammering down outside!

Thanks again

nrgserv said:

assuming its a 300 tdi here.
do a search for the penny trick.

regardless of model, check the universal joints on the front and rear propshafts for wobble. chock the wheels, leave in neatral, handbrake off, grab hold of prop and pull up n down, swing side to side. there should be no movement other than an inch or two of rotary movement of the complete thing.

then grease them.

if theres movement, replace them.

Click to expand...

Awsome thanks, its a 200 tdi is the penny trick still the same?

you guys reply so fast i didnt have time to post the details before i had two replys

Lyndon said:

Awsome thanks, its a 200 tdi is the penny trick still the same?

you guys reply so fast i didnt have time to post the details before i had two replys

Click to expand...

not sure.
time for more googling.

okjust incase anyone else is folowing this the 200 IS diffrent for the penny trick thing but i did find this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/200-tdi-squealing-penny-trick-90681.html

if it is the alty what would be squeaking and is it servicable?

Lyndon said:

okjust incase anyone else is folowing this the 200 IS diffrent for the penny trick thing but i did find this http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/200-tdi-squealing-penny-trick-90681.html

if it is the alty what would be squeaking and is it servicable?

Click to expand...

if it is the alternator, it be the bearings squeeling, and dependant on your competancy, yes its servicable.
remove the belt temporarily and run it to see if it shuts up.
before you remove the alternator, fit a new belt and make sure all the grooves in the pulley are clean.
air con pumps can squeel too, has it got that on it?

a squirt of wd40 on the belts often highlights if its a belt / pulley problem too, as has already been suggested. (but it doesent last)

nrgserv said:

assuming its a 300 tdi here.
do a search for the penny trick.

regardless of model, check the universal joints on the front and rear propshafts for wobble. chock the wheels, leave in neatral, handbrake off, grab hold of prop and pull up n down, swing side to side. there should be no movement other than an inch or two of rotary movement of the complete thing.

then grease them.

if theres movement, replace them.

Click to expand...

uh oh! :doh: went under the car this morning and there is play in the joint between the diff and the prop prob about 5ml.i did check with the handbrake up and in gear as i forgot about droping the brake and putting in nutural.

How hard is it to change? and is it worth getting a second hand one?

Thanks

Lyndon said:

uh oh! :doh: went under the car this morning and there is play in the joint between the diff and the prop prob about 5ml.i did check with the handbrake up and in gear as i forgot about droping the brake and putting in nutural.

How hard is it to change? and is it worth getting a second hand one?

Thanks

Click to expand...

only reason for handbrake off an out of gear is to make sure theres no stress on the prop, so you can see movement. if you can see it with the brakes on, its deffo buggered.

dont even think of putting a second hand uj in.

4x4 shops sell em for about a tenner, and if you've got a big vice and a socket set you can change em yourself, tho if you aint done one before, buy 2 cos you'll knacker one trying.
oh, and a set of internal circlip pliers.

be worth looking at busters how to guides, see if he's done a pictorial on changing uj's. if not, get back and i'll do a write up.

there not difficult to do, just require a bit of thought, and occasionally 3 hands.

nrgserv said:

only reason for handbrake off an out of gear is to make sure theres no stress on the prop, so you can see movement. if you can see it with the brakes on, its deffo buggered.

dont even think of putting a second hand uj in.

4x4 shops sell em for about a tenner, and if you've got a big vice and a socket set you can change em yourself, tho if you aint done one before, buy 2 cos you'll knacker one trying.
oh, and a set of internal circlip pliers.

be worth looking at busters how to guides, see if he's done a pictorial on changing uj's. if not, get back and i'll do a write up.

there not difficult to do, just require a bit of thought, and occasionally 3 hands.

Click to expand...

your a legend thanks alot, my only concern is that the play seems to be coming from where the uj connects the the front diff. I know nothing but is this right or is there something that the uj is attached to could be to blame?

i will change the union joint anyway but if it is off and there is something behind it that needs doing i might as well do that too rather than bugger up a new one from the same underlying problem.

thanks again and yes i got myself a vice and a socket set within the first week of owning it :lol:

I have found busters walk through which was awsome fair play!. I will have to check again tomorrow but i think the play is coming from where the prop joins the diff on the diff side of things. what does the prop join on to and what would cause the play?

sorry for the never ending questions!

thats a bigger job.......

uj= universal joint btw.

the thing it bolts to that your referring to, is called the diff pinion. if this is loose, you've got an awkward problem. if your lucky, when the prop is off, nip the inch af nut up on the end of it, it may tighten the slack out, then replace the diff pinion oil seal as it will have knackered it. if it dont nip up, the pinion bearings are worn and will need replacing, setting up with the correct number of shims.
unfortunately this is a diff out job, and being the front, requires both front hubs to come off to get it out. its also fairly critical to get it right or you end up chewing diffs up.

downloading a copy of rave would be advisable if your thinking of doing this yourself.

edit.
buster may have even done this too. or at least removing and replacing the front diff.

ah balls im thinking it sounds easier to change the entire axel?

I can buy a secondhand 10 spline diff locally. to replace it is it a case of removing both half shafts...removing the prop... draining and unbolting the diff... remove the diff from the axel...clean away any old gasket and muck....put in new diff & gasket.... half shafts backin...refill diff and hope it don't blow up or grind its self to bits

Lyndon said:

I can buy a secondhand 10 spline diff locally. to replace it is it a case of removing both half shafts...removing the prop... draining and unbolting the diff... remove the diff from the axel...clean away any old gasket and muck....put in new diff & gasket.... half shafts backin...refill diff and hope it don't blow up or grind its self to bits

Click to expand...

theoretically yes.
assuming you have a 10 spline diff and not a 24 spline.
and its the same ratio. 4.7:1 i beleive, but dont quote me on that just yet.
and you still have to get the half shafts out which means either removing the swivels complete, or stripping the hubs down to get them out.

if you go for the complete axle, make sure the radius arms are the same type as theres 2 types, an their not interchangeable.

try nipping the pinioin up first.