Sheared cylinder head bolt. TD5

No 12 bolt sheared on the last degree turn. damn it !!

How do I extract ?

Do I take sump off ?

In middle of taking head off again.....

Why did I buy a TD5 !?? :doh: I want my 300 back....

Q; Why did I buy a TD5 !??

A; cos you are sick of rotten metal,maybe?..

Hard to say without seeing...as you mention sump I wonder how much of the bolt extends over the block face? There is a chance you could weld a nut to it,or there is a new-ish welding rod that fixes to bolts down inside holes without attaching to sides that you build up and fix a bolt to,alledgedly good in these situations.Due to 99% rate of making it all worse,I am not keen on drilling and easy-outs.They always snap off (for me) and leave me needing to get it spark eroded or similar.And not that many places can fit an engine in their eroder.Certainly not in the car.But there ARE mobile units out there.Drilling out with gradually bigger bits and a magnetic drill or cunningly fixed pillar drill on block face and then winding thread out with picks....maybe.

All hard to call without knowing where the bolt snapped !

Would need to see a pic of what's left of the bolt

ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

Bought from Turner Engineering

So....deep in the block.....one of they fancy welding rods then.....or mobile spark erode....or mag/pillar drill,carbide bits and time....anyone?

These are ,alledgedly,the thing to use......

welding rods for extracting studs,broken taps,bolts,etc | eBay UK

....worth a look,at least.

Another thought....did the headbolts go in dry,no lubrication?Cause of snap? I ask because,if they went in lubed there is a slim chance that you could catch the standing out piece of the bolt and work it back round with a pick or punch.I assume that the bolt was under tension from compressing the head and gasket and from its own stretch....???? If so,it MAY not be in there that tight....grasping at straws,I know.

I reckon most of us have been where you are,and always on a holiday or weekend too.My opinion aint worth a whole lot,theres plenty here know better than me but I do feel for you.I hope it comes right mate.

Soooooooooooo frustrating. I've done 300 and 200 tdi's no probs. But to pop on the last bolts. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I have never been a fan of Td5.I was working in a small landy garage when they came out,dont get me wrong,Id never even had my hands on a disco then....I was strictly the series truck spanner and welding monkey in those days.The first Td5 I saw was laid out on the floor with the whole vehicles wiring looms attached.The boss had bought it from someone as is and we didnt have ANY computer stuff and were scared to disconnect ANYTHING for fear of not being able to re set it.It hang around taking up 100 sq ft of floor all the time I was there. I was scared to even walk past it!

What I am getting at is the sad fact that I cannot afford to own a vehicle that I cant fix myself.Td5s are great when they go,D2s are a lovely truck.....if you know what you are doing with them and got all the kit (not implying you dont,mate!) to do it with......or can pay someone to do it for you!Even EDC 300tdi is proving to be a step to modern for my meagre abilities!

As I say,I do feel for you mate.To go on the last bolt....it sounds like me and you should NEVER get together cos thats the sort of thing that happens to me.Every time,Nothing Is Ever Simple....NIES,the acronym for my life.You are not alone,buddy...........

ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

Could this be part of the problem.... 2 mm difference in length of bolt and amount of thread !?

Top bolt is the one we took outof engine at the start. Bottom one is one of the new ones put in.

BigDons said:

No 12 bolt sheared on the last degree turn. damn it !!

How do I extract ?

Do I take sump off ?

In middle of taking head off again.....

Why did I buy a TD5 !?? :doh: I want my 300 back....

Click to expand...

where they new or used head bolts.never use old bolts over they strech and bottom out in the hole and can break off??

Brand NEW bolts. I always use new ones when doing head gaskets.

GOT IT I GOT THE LITTLE BUGGER !!!!!!!!!!

Could see the bolt about 1 1/2 " down and used long nosed mole grips. Came out easy.

Now for a beer !

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Dons x

make sure the holes for bolts excuse terminology have no oil water in them.Cant cause bolts to snap because of shorting recess space to screw into.

...and chase out the threads with a tap....if you dont have one,cut some slots up a used headbolt....remember to clean the tap between boltholes!

BigDons said:

GOT IT I GOT THE LITTLE BUGGER !!!!!!!!!!

Could see the bolt about 1 1/2 " down and used long nosed mole grips. Came out easy.

Now for a beer !

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Dons x

Click to expand...

Well done Dons you must be relieved.

if it came out easy nothing wrong with thread ,if cleaning holes make sure you know size and pitch,as said above fluid in bottom can cause block to crack as it hydraulics

You lucky bugger well done

I usually clean out the holes with a modified air hose. Have re examned averything and have noticed the head bolts ( new ones ) were 3 mm longer than the ones we took out and the Gasket was the wrong one ! It was a 2 hole and not the thicker 3 hole. So basically was trying to screw down into a shortened space with longer bolts,.. aaaaaaaaaahhhrrrr!

So.,, another gasket on its way.

Dons x

no not gasket ,and if bolt had bottomed out it wouldnt have come out easy it would be under tension and would need drilling and easy out to remove must have been weak bolt or bolts

BigDons said:

was trying to screw down into a shortened space with longer bolts,.. aaaaaaaaaahhhrrrr!

Click to expand...

Not britpart bolts were they?
Well done by the way, yer lucky sod!
T