Which sealant?

D2 TD5 sump gasket replacement and sealant.

Hi all, just a quick question. I'm going to be doing a couple of oil pump bolt replacements next week; I have most of the bits required but RAVE states that I need to apply a sealant STC3254 on a couple of areas before installing the new sump gasket - the problem is that this part number relates to a TDi 300 stop solenoid!!!!

So, does anyone know exactly what sort of sealant is required for this job - Section 12-1-61 of RAVE.

I was thinking of using Hylomar Blue???

......i have used it for that very purpose in the past and have had no trouble....

nick.

njh2 said:

......i have used it for that very purpose in the past and have had no trouble....

nick.

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Thanks for that Nick, that's what I thought.


Any other offers, just wondering what LR uses,

....on the funny side, in my experience, generally exactly the thing that (if i owned a great car manufacturing establishment) i wouldn't use!!!!!

i would use STAG WELLSEAL as its the absolute tits

Just for general interest, I have just found out that the market equivalent to the LR product is Hylomar 101.

thebiglad said:

Just for general interest, I have just found out that the market equivalent to the LR product is Hylomar 101.

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surely thats hylosil 101......its an RTV silicone

G-man said:

surely thats hylosil 101......its an RTV silicone

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You are right in that some sites list it as Hylosil, others list it as Hylomar.

Personally I don't know the difference, I just want something to do the job.

Big Lad
Hylomar blue is a non setting gasket material,oil resistant etc-mainly for joints that need taking apart again
Hylosil is an RYV (like high modulus silicone bath sealant) It will cure to a rubber-important to grease one face of the joint,if you want to get it apart again easily.

In the past I have used high modulus silicone sealant(one that smells of vinegar)for both rocker cover and sump gaskets without issue-and much cheaper-lidl's have it on offer sometimes

biolandy said:

Big Lad
Hylomar blue is a non setting gasket material,oil resistant etc-mainly for joints that need taking apart again
Hylosil is an RYV (like high modulus silicone bath sealant) It will cure to a rubber-important to grease one face of the joint,if you want to get it apart again easily.

In the past I have used high modulus silicone sealant(one that smells of vinegar)for both rocker cover and sump gaskets without issue-and much cheaper-lidl's have it on offer sometimes

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Thanks very much for that BL. According to Rave I don't put this stuff on the gasket or even where the gasket is going, I have to put it on some other meeting surfaces that are not serviced by the sump gasket - a bit curious but there you go it is a Landy after all.

when i did my oil pump bolt i droped the sump onto the axle giving just enough room to get to the oil pump bolt then just put the sump back on and bolted it up no new gasket or new sealer used and i have never had a problem (in fact i have done this twice)

martinhollings said:

when i did my oil pump bolt i droped the sump onto the axle giving just enough room to get to the oil pump bolt then just put the sump back on and bolted it up no new gasket or new sealer used and i have never had a problem (in fact i have done this twice)

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That's very interesting Martin - and the way you did it, were you able to get a socket and driver in there ok? And torque wrench access to do it up to the correct torque?


Did you jack up the chassis to give more working room?

hylomar is for applying on surface with gasket ,rtv silicone is used when no gasket needs to be high temp thats all

jamesmartin said:

hylomar is for applying on surface with gasket ,rtv silicone is used when no gasket needs to be high temp thats all

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Thanks for that James - apparently this Hylosil 101 is just that, an RTV with a constant temp tolerance of 250°C.

thebiglad said:

That's very interesting Martin - and the way you did it, were you able to get a socket and driver in there ok? And torque wrench access to do it up to the correct torque?


Did you jack up the chassis to give more working room?

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can get a sockett and torque wrench on no problems cant rember jacking up the chassis but would make things easyer if you did