Progressively heavy steering

Hi,

The steering has been getting slightly heavier and heavier in my D2 recently on cornering.

However over the last few days it's got much worse, to the extent I really need both hands to force the wheel round roundabouts; and the wheel doesn't automatically return to straight any more when leaving a corner/round about -- I need to force it back to centre otherwise it just stays where it is.

It might just be me, but it seems to be slightly worse on a right-hand bend and seems to get a little better after everything in the engine bay is warmed up.

Any suggestions as to what I can check? The fluid level is fine.

What's the worst case scenario and any ideas on cost?

I don't think it's relevant but it only just came back from a garage who fixed an unrelated problem but left the car parked on full lock for several hours until I collected it. It's since I picked it up that it's been much worse.

It seems u've lost the power assistance.....the worst(and maybe the only) scenario is the PAS pump, OEM around £150, genuine double.

rickead2000 said:

Hi,

The steering has been getting slightly heavier and heavier in my D2 recently on cornering.

However over the last few days it's got much worse, to the extent I really need both hands to force the wheel round roundabouts; and the wheel doesn't automatically return to straight any more when leaving a corner/round about -- I need to force it back to centre otherwise it just stays where it is.

It might just be me, but it seems to be slightly worse on a right-hand bend and seems to get a little better after everything in the engine bay is warmed up.

Any suggestions as to what I can check? The fluid level is fine.

What's the worst case scenario and any ideas on cost?

I don't think it's relevant but it only just came back from a garage who fixed an unrelated problem but left the car parked on full lock for several hours until I collected it. It's since I picked it up that it's been much worse.

Click to expand...

I had this on my wife's TDi 300 about 4 days ago and I fixed it !!!!

There are likely to be one of two issues.

1. Air in the pas fluid

2. Old saturated pas fluid.

When I resolved mine I changed the fluid as it was an '98 vehicle that might never have been changed.

You will need:

A socket 11 or 12mm plus long extensions and a 'T'-bar

A length (2feet) of clear plastic pipe that will fit on the bleed nipple on the top of the steering box

At least 3ltrs of Dexron IId or III.

A 2ltr empty oil bottle

How to do it:

Get prepared by having the atf to hand, tools to hand, and the pas reservoir lid off. Also open the drivers door window, so you can start and stop the engine easily. It helps if you remove the viscous fan, for space and safety reasons.

Slacken the bleed nipple, place the pipe on the nipple and watch to see if any air comes out.

Check the pas reservoir is full, put the other end of the pipe in the empty bottle and start the engine. The oil will now start to pump out, so you need to continually top the reservoir. Allow this to continue until the bottle is near to being full, then stop the engine. Tighten the bleed nipple so it doesn't suck any air back in.

Empty the bottle and put back in position, check the level of fluid in the reservoir. No reopen the bleed nipple, start the motor and continue as before until you have put 3.4 ltrs of new fluid into the reservoir.

When you have, stop the engine, tighten the bleed nipple, check the reservoir level and top-up as necessary, remove the pipe.

Now check the feel/weight of the steering. Over the following two days check for air in the reservoir by opening the bleed nipple with a pipe on it and listen to the pipe, for air bubbles. When there are none - the job is done.

I had the same problem when i went off roading and waded through some deep water , more like a liquid cement then water. any way other a period of time my steering progressivly got stiffer and heavier, steering would not return to centre without me pulling it straight.
the steering column from the steering bax upto the uj near the bulk head was encrusted in mud like cement from the wading. power washed off the crud first then soaked the uj's in wd and jack front of car up on axle stands and worked to and thro until it loosed up then jetwashed again re soaked in wd again and worked to and thro for another 20 mins then i soaked in new oil again working the steering back and forth, all appears ok upto now , that was 3 months ago. so give it go worth a try.
all the best
Mark

As regards changing the pas fluid, I am not sure but I think the pas fluid in a D2 is not the same as a 300. Worth changing it as suggested but I'd check which fluid it is first just in case.

diver said:

As regards changing the pas fluid, I am not sure but I think the pas fluid in a D2 is not the same as a 300. Worth changing it as suggested but I'd check which fluid it is first just in case.

Click to expand...

You are right to say that for a D2, LR put in a branded Texaco PAS and ACE fluid which is very expensive. Lots of owners have successfully migrated to std pas fluid ie Dexron III for the pas system and some changed the ACE system to it as well.

Dave

so we're saying that (on a disco 1) you cannot jump belled the box when running the engine, you have to turn it off and then listen for bubbles? does the fluid run up the tube til the level of the reservoir?

would you mind expanding slightly on the second part of the bleeding? i would have only done it with the engine running tbh, maybe thats my problem?

cheers, sam

Mr Noisy said:

so we're saying that (on a disco 1) you cannot jump belled the box when running the engine, you have to turn it off and then listen for bubbles? does the fluid run up the tube til the level of the reservoir?

would you mind expanding slightly on the second part of the bleeding? i would have only done it with the engine running tbh, maybe thats my problem?

cheers, sam

Click to expand...

Hi Sam, I'm not at all sure what you meant in your first paragraph so Ill just say that; 1. to remove the old oil you need the engine running to pump it through & 2. to get the last bits of air out you don't need the engine running - I found that all I needed to do was connect the plastic tube and open the bleed valve and listen for air bubbles.


Dave

sorry dave, blasted iphone changed a few words for me! anyway, right, i got that now, i'll give it a whirl - i changed my steering box and never bled the system (assumed it would flush its own bubbles out) so maybe thats why my steering is often patchy.

cheers