Preparation for Waxoyl

Not a complicated one, this... (hopefully!)...

I'm heading off to Rustmaster later this week and want to know people's opinions on whether I should remove the side steps, diff guards and plastic trim covering the sills before I go.

Obviously, they will advise me when I get there, but it's gotta be worth removing the sill trim at least because they won't be able to get behind it otherwise, right?

I could probably remove the diff guards on the day if they can't get between the guard and the diff itself, but is there anything else obvious that you reckon is worth doing??

I've already pressure washed the underside as best I could to remove all the mud & sand from my last off roading day, so at least they're starting with a relatively clean vehicle.

How much is it costing you if you dont mind me asking?

£500 roughly. I'll give exact cost once it's done! I can't remember it precisely.

Not cheap. They do a very thorough, good job though, I've heard

Ouch. Keep us posted

fishsponge said:

£500 roughly. I'll give exact cost once it's done! I can't remember it precisely.

Not cheap. They do a very thorough, good job though, I've heard

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do it ya self ya lazy get

I had it done a couple of years ago cost me about £500.00 I thought it was worth it as they do a much better job than you can possible do your self unless you have access to a ramp etc. If you intend to keep the vehicle its worth the money.

that's what i thought

anyway... anyone got any advice regarding my first post??

Just what I did DIY with 10 spray cans, now all I do is touch up every year the areas that the waxoyl has washed off 2 spray cans.
Waxoyl works along with the underseal and cavity wax supplied by Land Rover so still no rust.

fishsponge said:

anyway... anyone got any advice regarding my first post??

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anybody??

working on the theory that anything bolted onto the underside will act, to some degree or other, as a rust trap I'd remove as much as possible as they will probably charge by the hour for doing your car so as you've already started by clearing the worst of the clag off why not finish the job and probably save a couple of quid.
but yes, defo remove the sill trim - then leave the crappy things off, nowt but a rust trap.

trax99 said:

working on the theory that anything bolted onto the underside will act, to some degree or other, as a rust trap I'd remove as much as possible as they will probably charge by the hour for doing your car so as you've already started by clearing the worst of the clag off why not finish the job and probably save a couple of quid.
but yes, defo remove the sill trim - then leave the crappy things off, nowt but a rust trap.

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thanks, trax99.

I'll certainly remove the plastic trim then. Presumably it'll just come away leaving a load of broken plastic rivets all over the place?

As for the side steps, if I remove them for the Waxoyling, they will need to be reattached as my guests need some way of getting into my vehicle until I buy the rock sliders! I think for that reason, I should just leave them on... maybe.

And I think I might leave the diff guards on until the day, just in case they say it's easy enough to waxoyl between them and the diffs.

They don't charge by the hour thankfully it's a flat fee as far as I can work out. It told him I had a standard Disco with front winch bumper, rear tube bumper, tow bar, steering guard and diff guards and he quoted me a price.

To finish off the trim topic though, I have left them on until now because I figured they kept most of the water and road muck away from the sills, but are you saying they actually accelerate the corrosion rather than slow it down??

This thread seems to have died a death too, so here goes resurrection number 2 for the day!

Plastic sill trim on my Disco 1 - does it protect the sills from corrosion (to an extent) or actually make it much worse?

In other words, are they better put back on after the Waxoyl session or left off?

"To an extent" it does so does Waxoyl to an entent. both may or may not extend the life of the sill.

ok... so i think, once it's waxoyld, i'll leave them off. I plan on buying some rock sliders anyway, so that'll cover up what's now exposed. looks better with them off anyway!

They did mine with the steps and everything in place - no worries )

what about diff guards though... i've no idea how to remove them (I wasn't the one who put them on) and it doesn't look like there's much of a gap between the guard and the diff itself... any idea how they do with diff guards??

on the subjetc of sil covers, my opinion is based on the state of my sils ( and others) when I took em off, the parts of the sil where the covers were rivited to were in worse state than the areas where the covers were more loosly covering. hope this makes sense - grammer was never my subject, and as for spelling dont get me started

A mate got his Disco done at before + after. Don't know if who you are goin to has same procedure, but he unbolted/removed F All. Everything visable is coated. Waxoil is injected into any cavity.

If your interested, i done mine on my drive. Got it as high as poss on good axle stands. 15Lts of Waxoil (£55). Drilled and plugged holes in doors and anywhere else i could. Remember to pull seatbelts out fully when doin pillars tho. I've looked at his and to be honest I think mine is as good as if not better. Suppose time will tell tho.

fishsponge said:

This thread seems to have died a death too, so here goes resurrection number 2 for the day!

Plastic sill trim on my Disco 1 - does it protect the sills from corrosion (to an extent) or actually make it much worse?

In other words, are they better put back on after the Waxoyl session or left off?

Click to expand...

Imo they are bad things, the sill covers. The reason is that you don't see what is happening until it's too late. Also the sills usually rust from the inside out. Also the sills have drain holes in them which gives access to the interior of the box section for waxoyling.

Thanks for the sill trim info... and i appreciate that the waxoyling company will coat anything visible... after all, they can't be expected to coat stuff that's completely inaccessible!

Regarding the diff guards though, there is a gap between the guard and the diff. Maybe suitable for cavity filling (excluding the drain plug, of course), maybe suitable to be sprayed into (or filled and drained out)! Who knows.

Anyway, I plan on turning up slightly early tomorrow to ask whether they need to be removed or not. The plan then is that if they do need to be removed, I'll figure out how to remove them there and then! Hopefully either they or I will have a spanned/socket that fits.

I'd have looked at it today, except it's been raining lightly all day and the ground is soaked! I guess we'll see how it goes tomorrow.