Heater matrix 'Gurgling'

Morning,

Have a 01 td5 (88k miles) which is having coolant loss issues, pretty sure it is not HG related, working through replacing pipework (coolant and pitpework was badly fouled after oil cooler failure earlier in year), found one with a hole for definite. Now the level seems to hold for a while (500 / 600 miles), then drops a little and holds again. But I do notice that I am getting an air blockage (probably) in the heater matrix and can hear 'gurgling' from behind the dash in traffic, accompanied by a drop in air temperature from the vents. Put the engine under load and it is back to normal.

Question; is there a separate method for bleeding a heater matrix or shuld I just run through the normal coolant air bleeding process?

Any help / answers would be great.

i have the same problem and have tried various things to solve it, tried bleeding the system as per rave with no luck, but as per yur question there aint a way to bleed the heater matrix as far as i know. u bleed the system by holding the expansion tank up in the air, bleed screw removed from top hose and fill very slowly to cold water mark, once you have a clear stream of fluid from the bleed screw thats meant to be it, dident work for me but its worth a try... I also changed my thermostat which made no difference.. did flow test on heater matrix and was fine.

Very interested in the solution to this one..

I use to jack the front up on my RR so the top of the rad was the highest point in the cooling system that got rid of air in the matrix, I found facing up a hill also worked.

Never had a problem with the disco but then I only change the antifreeze every 5 years.

Bled more air out through the bleed screw last night but still more 'bubbling' or 'gurgling' coming from behind dash.

I have been just loosening the bleed screw, should I take it out altogether when running the engine, do I have to rev it much?

Any one else have thoughts?

You will have to bring the coolent up to pressure that's a hot engine also maybe the blead screw is blocked as D1s don't have one, also is an air valve or can you loose coolent when it's open.

I had the engine up to temperature (well not up to half way on dash but still quite warm air from vents) When I go to bleed it at the bleed screw, I get 'fizzy' water / coolant, ie really small bubbles and after a while it is just a stream of clear water / coolant. A bit more revving and some more bubbles.

How long should it take to bleed the air out of a td5?

I'm afraid that depends on how much air, it maybe trapped else where, also some times it took me a couple of goes do it one day and had do do it again nextday.

The last resort is to drain the system and refill very slowly and bleed the system how ever your book states.

DaveJ said:

I had the engine up to temperature (well not up to half way on dash but still quite warm air from vents) When I go to bleed it at the bleed screw, I get 'fizzy' water / coolant, ie really small bubbles and after a while it is just a stream of clear water / coolant. A bit more revving and some more bubbles.

How long should it take to bleed the air out of a td5?

Click to expand...

Look at the photo below. Do the bubbles look like this and is it constant?



T

Yes, they do, especially after revving. Then after a few moments, it will settle into a clear stream.

It is beginning to get frustrating. When idling in traffic, the heaters start blowing cold inside which is not nice. On a run it is fine and warm though.

Any help?

Well the fact that it clears is good - Mine didn't hence head gasket changed. I would change the thermostat and then bleed the system until you get hot air into the cabin through the heater whilst on tickover. This can take some time but stick with it!!

T