Gearbox/Transfer box leak

51 plate TD5 manual

Recently noticed that after driving for between 45mins - hour, gears become harder to change.
Had a look underneath and noticed oil staining towards rear of gearbox at transfer box but seems to be coming from high up on one of the boxes, cant seem to see exactly where.
Clutch was changed last year but this has only became noticable in the last few weeks.
Checked the gearbox level today and although took some oil, wasn't really that much.
Any ideas appreciated

are you sure youve not got two problems diesel leaking from fuel pressure regulator rear of engine drivers side,and worn gearbox ,if there was enough oil then not likey to be cause of poor gear change ,putting fresh mtf might help ,checkj clutch clears properly, R380 gearbox is prone to worn baulkrings,but usually 2nd and 3rd first,they do need fresh oil regulary ,they hold less than 3 litres

jamesmartin said:

are you sure youve not got two problems diesel leaking from fuel pressure regulator rear of engine drivers side,and worn gearbox ,if there was enough oil then not likey to be cause of poor gear change ,putting fresh mtf might help ,checkj clutch clears properly, R380 gearbox is prone to worn baulkrings,but usually 2nd and 3rd first,they do need fresh oil regulary ,they hold less than 3 litres

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Hi, thanks for your reply, defo no diesel, the regulator was changed within the last 2 years.
The gearbox performs as it always has, the only noticeable change is when the Disco has been running a while.

put fesh mtf in then,

jamesmartin said:

put fesh mtf in then,

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Yeah will do - but any ideas where its leaking from

Have had another look at this, think there are two problems

1. Leaking oil is not of the red colour more like engine oil but appears to be
coming from around the top of the transfer box. Dont know what colour of oil
should be in there.

2. The gear change when the gearbox gets warm after a long run.

Number 1 I have no idea.

Number 2 will change the gearbox oil.

Will post pictures of the leak tomorrow

similar to clean engine oil,could be gearbox top can be got at by removing center consol and rubber gaiter , your oil probably not atf (red)in gearbox,mtf is usual now,

biggeeeee said:

Have had another look at this, think there are two problems

1. Leaking oil is not of the red colour more like engine oil but appears to be
coming from around the top of the transfer box. Dont know what colour of oil
should be in there.

2. The gear change when the gearbox gets warm after a long run.

Number 1 I have no idea.

Number 2 will change the gearbox oil.

Will post pictures of the leak tomorrow

Click to expand...

Your problem no.2 is very common and a quick easy and cheap fix, if I'm right in the diagnosis.

At the base of the main box gear lever is an assembly with a nylon ball affair. This, when it gets older, swells when hotter and baulks the gear change. Part number UKE500020 listed on Microcat at £27.78+vat.

Strip down and remove old one, install new one and she should be better. Change the oil for 3 ltrs of MTF 94 at the same time and you should be fine.

Many thanks for the replies

Took the centre console out, have taken a few pics of the top of the gearbox, the well where the gearstick enters the box looks pretty cruddy - dont know if this is usual.

Also can see where the transfer box joins the gearbox at the top is damp with oil

thebiglad said:

Your problem no.2 is very common and a quick easy and cheap fix, if I'm right in the diagnosis.

At the base of the main box gear lever is an assembly with a nylon ball affair. This, when it gets older, swells when hotter and baulks the gear change. Part number UKE500020 listed on Microcat at £27.78+vat.

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Stripped down the lever assembly - the ball itself is metal

the lever is £27.78
the Bush is £3.94
the Seal is £12.34

would it be better to replace all 3 or just the bush, the seal looks fine as does the lever

biggeeeee said:

Stripped down the lever assembly - the ball itself is metal

the lever is £27.78
the Bush is £3.94
the Seal is £12.34

would it be better to replace all 3 or just the bush, the seal looks fine as does the lever

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I would replace the seal and the bush.

i would take 4 x bolts 10mm heads and remove top,they can leak between box and top, as that has leaked overtime doesnt look fresh enough or big enough to show further back more than dirty stain,when refitting top clean well and resilicone,check breather hole under diff lock linkage near top ,rev switch similar position but on passeger side

thebiglad said:

I would replace the seal and the bush.

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Tried the local main dealers for both parts, the seal is available but 3 different dealers dont keep stock of the bush and its on back order from the factory and none could give me an idea of how long to get hold of it.

Internet - most wanted between £7 - 12 for delivery of a £4 part.

Rimmer bros charged £2.55 for postage and supplied genuine parts,which were delivered the following day via Royal Mail.

i doubt that was source of leak or stiffness but check yoke ball on end of selector shaft and weld wear grooves in lever and grind smooth where springs have rubbed they make the lever jam when going backwards with lever

Diagnosis

Last week the problem became really serious, couldn't get the Discovery into reverse whilst the engine running and couldn't get 1st gear unless using 2nd and then going into 1st.

I decided to change the slave and master cylinders to rule this out and this made no difference.

Managed to get the Disco (just) to a local Indy for diagnosis

He phoned me today to tell me that the rod from the fork to the slave cylinder had been fitted round the wrong way when the new clutch had been fitted last year. seems this has been getting worse and finally the rod has worn the hole in the fork away and now just moves in and out the bigger hole! rather than engaging the fork.

Not best pleased with the original garage who claimed to be clutch specialists but will put it down to experience and hopefully getting the Disco back tomorrow.

If I get the old fork back may even send it to the original garage directly thru their window.

cant see how thats possible even by a loony ,wearing thru pivot is common

Get it back tomorrow and i'll post pics

Confirmed the push rod from the slave cylinder was fitted arse for elbow.
I did note last week when fitting the slave cylinder that the rod had a round ball end coming from the gearbox but thought nothing of it as I had never seen any of that assembly before.
The old rod has a lovely bend in it and the end that should have located into the slave cylinder has worn a larger hole in the fork hence no clutch.

Photo to follow shortly

Here we go the rod is actually stuck fast in the fork as if welded