which filters to use
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thebiglad
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I am reliably informed that Mahle actually make the filters for LR but you can buy them at a third the price.
50 pence
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I,ve been using " cheap " filters in my TD5 for years. ( its still going ).
I just bought a set of JGS4X4, ( ebay ), and 10 lts of semi 5w30 for around 50 sheets !.
The filters were Cooper Fiamm.
Some folk will only use genuine filters.
( I have yet to read, " cheap oil filter wrecked my engine ! ". )
Ultimately, I,m afraid, it your choice !.
Del.
I just bought a set of JGS4X4, ( ebay ), and 10 lts of semi 5w30 for around 50 sheets !.
The filters were Cooper Fiamm.
Some folk will only use genuine filters.
( I have yet to read, " cheap oil filter wrecked my engine ! ". )
Ultimately, I,m afraid, it your choice !.
Del.
thebiglad
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thanks for that just found the filters big lad said will go for those at £23 full set
That's a good price, where did you find them?
Dave
slice
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I've been in oil filtration since 1986, mostly in industrial hydraulics. i was selling filters to major organisations such as british steel - but even back in those days the industry had recognised that the normal paper oil filters weren't efficient enough to capture and retain contamination thus prevent deterioration of the pumps and valves in the system.
Even back then such industries moved to the newly emerging bonded glass fibre media filters.
Small particles of sand (dust from the atmosphere) could easily enter the systems through the paper tank breather.
Sand particles are extremely hard so as they circulate unhindered by the coarse paper filters they carry out longer term abrasive damage to the pumps and valves.
so although the inefficient paper filters wont "wreck" hydraulic and lube oil (and engine) components they do drastically reduce their service life.....
a better quality filter could very easily treble the service life (engine rebuild) frequency of your engine.
A guy by the name of Jim Fitch (been in oil analysis & filtration most of his life) set up an organisation called "Noria" in the USA back in those days purely to spread the gospel about the enormous benefits of clean oil in all applications.
If you want more info the site is Noria.com - its a fascinating site and theres masses of info, case studies and advice on there
I dont want you to think I'm preaching or criticising what you're doing honestly - just letting you know....
cheers, slice
biggeeeee
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My personal choice always is the genuine article
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I see.
So the point your making is that " cheap " filters use a different, ( or drastically reduced ), filtration medium to that of genuine ones ?.
I,m fairly sure there is no " tank breather " filter on the TD5, but I could be wrong.
I,ve never opened up an old filter to se the difference between original and non.
I thought ALL filters had to reach a certain standard to be sold in the UK.
I have always been happy with Coppers filters, as they seem like fairly big players in thier market.
I change my oil and filters every 6 months now as my car reaches 100k, so the oil doesnt get to poor.
I,m going to dig around a bit about this filter thing now. ( I dont want to shorten the life of my engine for the sake of an extra £ 50/60 a year ! ).
Cheers.
Del.
thebiglad
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Hi Del, I would like to offer a little perspective on this debate if I may? Bear in mind that Land Rover, like all other car makers, don't make filters, they buy them in.
To protect your engine and other mechanical parts the single best measure you can take is regular oil changes. So long as the oil is suitable for the application that is point number one.
Number two: which engine oil? Semi synth fully synth, 5-30; 10-40 etc.
I use 5-30 fully synth because I can buy it for 23euros for five ltrs. I change it every 10,000kms or 6 months whichever is the sooner. At the same time I change both engine oil filters.
When I do the oil change I leave it to drain for a long time. A mate told me this but I didn't believe until I saw it with my own eyes. I will leave mine to drain for maybe an hour. The difference this makes is that there is less old oil left in & the new oil stays cleaner for longer.
Theoretical tests may prove that one filter is more capable than enough, but in the real world we have to just do the best we can. As far as I'm aware there are no "bonded glass fibre media filters" available for our engines, never come across them anyway.
It's a bit like saying "Well I don't know why the engine failed, it gets regular oil changes" - well the engine failed (in my hypothetical example) because the engine oil pump bolt come undone!!!
What I'm trying to say is, look at what could reasonably affect your engine in a bad way and deal with that.
Sorry for the rambling but I know loads of Discos with 300,000mls plus on them and all they ever get is regular oil & filter changes.
Cheers
Dave
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Urban Panzer
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The thing I found with cheap filters, in particular the fuel filters is they rust VERY quickly in the winter months and look awful., whether they filter any worse or better.....who knows but when you see that, it does make you "wonder" on the whole overall quality.
thebiglad
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Hi Nick re the fuel filter, the thing is that I like to change all the filters often and the LR genuine fuel filter is about £30!!!
I used to use Britpart fuel filters but I have stopped that now, as I have found a supplier of Mahle (led to believe these are the suppliers to LR and the same spec) for only £9.
This for me seems to be the ideal world, OE quality but at a price I feel I can justify.
Re TD5 fuel filters ....
Buy a box of Britpart filters. (Keep several in the car all the time)
Each one comes in a polythene bag.
Get a dozen rubber bands.
Change the filter making SURE you take off BOTH O-Rings ( a big one and a little one) when you take off the old filter.
Fit two O-rings to the new filter, and grease them.
FILL THE FILTER WITH CLEAN FUEL (Diesel / petrol / kero) just so it is FILLED. This saves grief from bleeding. You may not need to bleed at all if you do this.
Screw the filter on firmly. Do not wipe it clean. Leave it a wee bit oily or greasy.
Now take the poly bag it came in and pull it up over the filter right to the top, and slip a rubber band up to keep it in place.
Poke a small hole in the lowest corner of the poly bag to let water out just in case any gets in.
(Remember, TD5 fuel filters get HOT, easily far too hot to hold, so they dry off quickly inside a poly bag.)
Next time you change the filter, rip off the poly bag and the old filter is pristine clean on the outside and not rusty.
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I've got a Mahl one and a genuine one both the same part number, they are not the same, the Mahl one actually weighs 100gtams more than the genuine one, not sure wether it's different spec steel or something else.
slice
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some time ago i found an article from a guy in the states that conducted a study on several engine oil filters
he examined the quality of the canister, the top seal, he cut them open and cut up the filter media for examination etc..
he checked the quality of the bypass valves...and in one instance he made reference to one filter having a cardboard bypass valve disc!
as with everything you buy "you get what you pay for"
he examined the quality of the canister, the top seal, he cut them open and cut up the filter media for examination etc..
he checked the quality of the bypass valves...and in one instance he made reference to one filter having a cardboard bypass valve disc!
as with everything you buy "you get what you pay for"
yep for the sake of a fiver on something that generally gets replaced one or twice a year is it worth it?
thebiglad
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That logic is ok so long as you know that you are getting a better quality item by paying more money.
My argument is that LR don't make filters themselves, they buy them in and have them put in LR boxes. If we can buy the same or better quality for less money - even though they come in non LR boxes - then we'd be daft not to try it wouldn't we?
Both filters?
