Engine swap

green-lantern · #1 11th-October-2008, 18:19

Well I'm swapping out engines so wish me luck and pray that this used engine is worth a crap. It supposevely has 80k on it but it doesn't look that good to me.

question: I was hoping to be able to pull the engine forward enough to get it out of the trans and pull it out but after looking at the engine with the torque converter on it it looks like I need to drop the trans. Will I need to drop the transmission when I do this?
Thanks,
Paul

eightinavee · #2 11th-October-2008, 20:03

Most people unbolt the torque converter from the drive plate and leave it in the autobox when they do an engine swop.Makes refitting easier too,better to unbolt the converter and fit it to the box first then you can ensure its properly engaged in the oil pump drive tangs - if you dont you will wreck the box very quickly.

green-lantern · #3 11th-October-2008, 21:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by eightinavee

Most people unbolt the torque converter from the drive plate and leave it in the autobox when they do an engine swop.Makes refitting easier too,better to unbolt the converter and fit it to the box first then you can ensure its properly engaged in the oil pump drive tangs - if you dont you will wreck the box very quickly.

OK I think I am following you. I should fit the TC to the trans before putting the engine in? If you have a link on this that would be great. LR are kind of new to me so any info like this I appreciate very much. Thanks

pugsley · #4 12th-October-2008, 02:00

hi paul you can unbolt the tourque convertor and leave it in situ in the box,if the same as my rangie there is a half moon plate at rear of sump remove that and undo the four inner silver head bolts not the ones around the outside of the flywheel,turn the flywheel round with a screwdiver pushing against the teeth,this then leaves the torque con in place thus needing less clearance to seperate from bellhousing,just be aware if box needs supporting or not once all bolts from b housing removed my 4.0 rr didnt but not sure on a disco hth

green-lantern · #5 12th-October-2008, 17:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by pugsley

hi paul you can unbolt the tourque convertor and leave it in situ in the box,if the same as my rangie there is a half moon plate at rear of sump remove that and undo the four inner silver head bolts not the ones around the outside of the flywheel,turn the flywheel round with a screwdiver pushing against the teeth,this then leaves the torque con in place thus needing less clearance to seperate from bellhousing,just be aware if box needs supporting or not once all bolts from b housing removed my 4.0 rr didnt but not sure on a disco hth

gotcha, I have every thing undone up top but the wiring harness. I will start on the bottom tomorrow. I guess its easier to pull the wiring from under the dash instead of unhooking every thing on the engine since the junkyard did this.
Paul

BoomerV8 · #6 12th-October-2008, 17:18

Check the big, flat metal flexplate between the flywheel and the torque converter is ok and is free of cracks.
Might be worth you changing it whilst you got it apart as these can slowly start to deteriorate and start rattling badly when the car is hot.
Otherwise its all got to come apart again to replace it if it fails and you'll kick yourself if it happens in the next couple of months.

green-lantern · #7 13th-October-2008, 23:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoomerV8

Check the big, flat metal flexplate between the flywheel and the torque converter is ok and is free of cracks.
Might be worth you changing it whilst you got it apart as these can slowly start to deteriorate and start rattling badly when the car is hot.
Otherwise its all got to come apart again to replace it if it fails and you'll kick yourself if it happens in the next couple of months.

OK good info, The one on the engine that I bought looks good so if i find some damage on the other plate I will change them out. thanks!

green-lantern · #8 15th-October-2008, 03:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by pugsley

hi paul you can unbolt the tourque convertor and leave it in situ in the box,if the same as my rangie there is a half moon plate at rear of sump remove that and undo the four inner silver head bolts not the ones around the outside of the flywheel,turn the flywheel round with a screwdiver pushing against the teeth,this then leaves the torque con in place thus needing less clearance to seperate from bellhousing,just be aware if box needs supporting or not once all bolts from b housing removed my 4.0 rr didnt but not sure on a disco hth

The bolts are really hard to get out of the torque converter. Any ideas why? This is the new engine. Could it be from overheating?

I hope the ones in the tranny now are not as hard to get out.

green-lantern · #9 15th-October-2008, 22:59

also The new (used) engine is very dirty on the inside. Anybody have any ideas how to flush it out good?

BoomerV8 · #10 16th-October-2008, 01:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by green-lantern

The bolts are really hard to get out of the torque converter. Any ideas why? This is the new engine. Could it be from overheating?

I hope the ones in the tranny now are not as hard to get out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by green-lantern

also The new (used) engine is very dirty on the inside. Anybody have any ideas how to flush it out good?

The bolts might be loctited (or similar). Look for a residue on the threads when you remove them, they are not bolts you wish to come loose, so refit with loctite!
Don't worry about a dirty engine, V8's are an old design so are quite dirty running and the oil doesn't stay clean in them for long.
Use a good quality 10W40 or 15W40 oil and change the oil a bit more frequently - it'll soon flush out. I never do more than 5000 miles between oil changes - but I'm fussy.