Egr help!!

Hi All, TD5 2000

Firstly I should state that I am not that mechanically minded but have today removed the egr with a kit from e bay.No problems with the job itself, I have blanked of the blue wire/hose as instructed but there is now like a buzzing noise coming from the unit where the blanking plug goes? Also I had 2 blanking plugs in kit and not sure where the other one goes?The instructions I received are clear as mud on these pipes, Can anyone help or does anyone have a pic of which pipes to block off? Apologies if you have seen this all lots of times!!So to sum up, I had one blue pipe/wire running from the egr, that is blanked off now,a) why have I got this noise now? b) what else should I blank off with the other bung? Hope this makes sense!!

Thanks alot.

Have a look at TD5Alive's website. The instructions are very clear on it. Might give you an idea.

Good luck'

Alive Tuning - Real Land Rover Performance for TDi, TD4, TD5, TD6, TDV6, TDV8, TDCi, Puma

Thanks for the reply, I have looked at the site and now am even more confused as they say not to disconnect any of the lines but just the wiring! So what the hell are the bungs for ????

chris18 said:

Thanks for the reply, I have looked at the site and now am even more confused as they say not to disconnect any of the lines but just the wiring! So what the hell are the bungs for ????

Click to expand...

The bungs are for the vacuum hoses or if you prefer, directly onto the vacuum modulator which I believe is on the nearside wing (it is on a TDi anyway.)

This device has 3 or 4 outlets on it with rubber elbows connecting to black plastic vacuum hose. Using the rubber bungs you can block off the vacuum.

Thanks for the reply Biglad, there seems to be several ways of doing the job looking at the website mentioned above. My instructions said to put bungs in, whereas on this site they say to leave all hoses connected to the modulater and unplug the electrical connection only, this is the first time that I have seen anything about unplugging the electrics on any of the guides! I was a more than a little worried as it said failure to do it properly could result in loss of brakes!

Confused.com!

chris18 said:

Thanks for the reply Biglad, there seems to be several ways of doing the job looking at the website mentioned above. My instructions said to put bungs in, whereas on this site they say to leave all hoses connected to the modulater and unplug the electrical connection only, this is the first time that I have seen anything about unplugging the electrics on any of the guides! I was a more than a little worried as it said failure to do it properly could result in loss of brakes!

Confused.com!

Click to expand...

It is ESSENTIAL that the integrity of the vacuum circuit remains intact as the brakes depend on it. You can achieve this by blocking the hoses if you remove the EGR valve, or if you leave the valve in place leave the pipes in place.

To get the proper benefit from this mod you should remove the valve, plus take out the MAP and clean it - it will be covered in "Marmite".

Cheers
Dave

Hi Dave,

Thanks for that.What is the MAP? Sorry to be thick, but I'm on a learning curve and it's a steep one!!

Hi have done this on mine the pipe that goes to the egr blank that off at the modulater with one of the bungs,

and I disconectted the electrics like it says and I wrapped elctrical tape around the plug and tucked it away

I'll try and get some pics lunch time but wont be able to post until this evening if you like

Rob

sorry forgot to say mines on a 2000 TD5 auto

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the reply,

That sounds exactly what I have done, I think I was getting confused because there were 2 bungs! But from what I can understand now this would be because some later models have 2 pipes from the egr valve. So running to the egr modulator I have a yellow pipe on mine which comes from the t shape juntion which I understand is to do with the brakes? When you unplug the wiring for the modulator this will not effect the performance of the brakes? Just want to be 100% as brakes are quite useful in certain circumstances!!! A picture would be good if you could just for peace of mind!

Cheers,

Chris.

chris18 said:

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the reply,

That sounds exactly what I have done, I think I was getting confused because there were 2 bungs! But from what I can understand now this would be because some later models have 2 pipes from the egr valve. So running to the egr modulator I have a yellow pipe on mine which comes from the t shape juntion which I understand is to do with the brakes? When you unplug the wiring for the modulator this will not effect the performance of the brakes? Just want to be 100% as brakes are quite useful in certain circumstances!!! A picture would be good if you could just for peace of mind!

Cheers,

Chris.

Click to expand...

Hi Chris, the electrical connector is only there for the functioning of the EGR valve - nothing to do with the brakes. The vacuum pipe is part of the vacuum circuit (which is part of the operation of your brakes) and needs to be bunged up if you remove the EGR Valve.

Ok now?

Dave

chris18 said:

Hi Dave,

Thanks for that.What is the MAP? Sorry to be thick, but I'm on a learning curve and it's a steep one!!

Click to expand...

MAP stands for Manifold Absolute Pressure and is a black plastic sensor on the inlet manifold.

It is held in place with 2 bolts - 8mm from memory - and an electrical connector.

Remove the connector and the 2 fixings and withdraw the MAP; clean it with brake and clutch cleaner spraying liberally, then leave to dry.

Once dry reinstall and reconnect.

Dave

Thanks alot for your help Dave, guess we all have to start somewhere! Will do the map today.

Cheers

Chris.

chris18 said:

Thanks alot for your help Dave, guess we all have to start somewhere! Will do the map today.

Cheers

Chris.

Click to expand...

Hi Chris, you're doing great and yes we all start off knowing nowt !!! But you are getting the hang of it really quick.

Land Rovers need constant attention and preventative maintenance to get the best from them and this is where it starts.

Btw, have you checked the red plug on your engine ECU for oil? Common problem and early diagnosis and rectification saves heartache.


Dave

Hi Dave,

Not a clue on the red plug on the ecu!! Will have to go and have a hunt round now when I do the map! I don't know, map, ecu- looks like I have to learn a new language as well!

Cheers,

Chris.

chris18 said:

Hi Dave,

Not a clue on the red plug on the ecu!! Will have to go and have a hunt round now when I do the map! I don't know, map, ecu- looks like I have to learn a new language as well!

Cheers,

Chris.

Click to expand...

It can appear a steep learning curve but you'll be fine. I only mention the red plug business as it's a classic TD5 issue. If you want to know more don't hesitate to ask.

It's a job to be done at the same time as your MAP, imho.

Dave

thebiglad said:

It can appear a steep learning curve but you'll be fine. I only mention the red plug business as it's a classic TD5 issue. If you want to know more don't hesitate to ask.

It's a job to be done at the same time as your MAP, imho.

Dave

Click to expand...

When I took mine for the mot the examiner is a landy guy and he said to me the about that problem so i've kept an eye on it anyway Pics are on me phone so as soon as i get home I'll post them

Cheers for that Rob.

chris18 said:

........
That sounds exactly what I have done, I think I was getting confused because there were 2 bungs! But from what I can understand now this would be because some later models have 2 pipes from the egr valve. So running to the egr modulator I have a yellow pipe on mine which comes from the t shape juntion which I understand is to do with the brakes? When you unplug the wiring for the modulator this will not effect the performance of the brakes? Just want to be 100% as brakes are quite useful in certain circumstances!!! A picture would be good if you could just for peace of mind!

Cheers,

Chris.

Click to expand...

Chris, not sure if this helps but here's a photo of the instructions that came with my EGR kit. PM me if you want a copy by email.

1 just under the top pipe which goes to the T Piece in the main vac pipe you can see the blueish cap that was the pipe that went to egr 2 where the Electrics would plug in I think I cable tied it under the sensor after wrapping it good with insultating tape and below is MAP Sensor
HTH