EGR Blanking problem.

So i bought my EGR blanking kit and the removal of the EGR and fitting of the straight through pipe went fine.

However when i was removing the exhaust pipe coming from the manifold the two nuts holding it on sheared off. flush with the manifold housing.

So basically i cannot fit the blanking plate and now the disco sounds like a army truck!

Tried to drill out the remaining metal from the nuts but cannot angle the drill into the right position and basically it would not even drill into the metal.

I was thinking of welding the blanking plate on, would this be sufficient?

If you cover the exhaust hole with your hand there is enough pressure to stop the escaping gasses, and the loud enginge sound disappears too.

Anybody any advice? Removing the sheared nuts is not an option, have already went through 3 drill bits.

Can you weld a nut or something to the sheared bolt? The heat usually loosens the bolt and you can turn it out.

I dont have a welding machine, i was going to get somebody to do it for me but sure i might aswell just get them to weld the blanking plate on instead of meesing about trying to free the sheard nuts.

you will have to take it to somebody to get studs out

Did you centre punch the remainder of the thread and start with a small drill bit?
As i had the same problem and even snapped the tap off aswell when i was re threading it!
I used new drill bits on mine just to make sure, but it did drill ok,

welding the plate in is possible but, you risk cracking the manifold then you're in a world of ****, i'd take the advice from angeloc and just weld a bolt to the stuck pins then aply a LOT of heat to break the crust, then blather it with freeing oil ( what brand is youre choice), and then try to remove it.

My bolts when I did mine were fecking stiff as anything. Took a few days soaking in WD40, plusgas, 3-in-1 and all the others I had in the shed. Gas axe for a little heat and "click" the first one undone and then "click" the second one came out. No worries. Took a long time but I knew they weren't going to be loose.

Mine had 13 years of rust and crap around the threads. Think of all the heating up and cooling down cycles it has gone through since new. All the moisture that has been taken down into the threads with a little **** in each time

Best thing to do would be to find an engineer that can drill out and re-tap to get the job done properly.

When welding cast iron, you want a slow cool down time so as to minimise and cracking!!

Also bear in mind that legislation may change in the future and we may have to put the EGRs back on for M.O.T's. Therefore I'd be inclined to get the job done properly so that you can "easily" remove the blanking plate in the future if required.

Mmmm....welding mild steel to cast....not easy.Have a look at this for some insight into the heating and other problems encountered,just an example as your man may not be mig welding,but it will give you an idea...

MIG Welding Cast Iron

heres arc welding cast iron...

Welding Cast Iron

and here is cast steel

Welding Cast Steel

Having read all about it I was expecting the worse... but managed to remove the EGR on my 2001 TD5 Defender and fit the blanking kit in less than an hour

I sprayed loads of WD40 on the exhaust bolts while hot, for the preceeding week and manged to find some Plus Gas penetrating spray for the big day... popped out a treat.

Loads of black snot in the inlet manifold... cleaned as far as my stubby fingers would allow!

Will let you all know how it performs in a week or two.

(having smugly posted this, something drastic will now go wrong)

The removal of the EGR has really made a difference to the engine's performance... revs as freely as a petrol engine... and really want's to pull... cruising at 70 now instead of 60.

Combined with my other mods - 1.22 ratio transfer box/TD5 Alive stage 1 tune/Kenlowe fan/K&N Air filter/Safari snorkel - I am now getting 35mpg on the standard 205/80R16 tyres... I am tempted to put my 265 AT's on to make the most of the extra power

I wish I had done this sooner!

Whippet said:

Also bear in mind that legislation may change in the future and we may have to put the EGRs back on for M.O.T's. Therefore I'd be inclined to get the job done properly so that you can "easily" remove the blanking plate in the future if required.

Click to expand...

I dout it, diesel upto 2008 is only smoke tested