Discovery 2, Changing the door lock actuators

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I have just changed my front drivers lock as the central locking wouldn't work on the fob, only on the key. Only to find that it had already had a new one fitted. I think the likelihood of the original one the secondhand one nit working are slim. Is there something obvious that I have missed? I have used the UKA code to re programme the system,as I had a problem after the car was stood up for some months without the battery connected. I also disconnected both of the car horns and the alarm horn, as it was disturbing to the neighbours at the time. I haven't reconnected horns yet, this wouldn't have any effect on the locking mechanism would it?
 
Hi Gaz,

I think you may not understand how the system works.

You say you used the UKA ( I take it you mean EKA) code to reprogram the system, it does not do this.

Have a read of this .

cheers
 

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Hi Gaz,

I think you may not understand how the system works.

You say you used the UKA ( I take it you mean EKA) code to reprogram the system, it does not do this.

Have a read of this .

cheers
Hi Gaz,

I think you may not understand how the system works.

You say you used the UKA ( I take it you mean EKA) code to reprogram the system, it does not do this.

Have a read of this .

cheers
Hello, yes, sorry I meant EKA code. Well there is a bit more information in this document than in the owners manual. I think maybe it is the rf antenna type thing. Do you know exactly where it us and how hard it is to get at on a single sunroof Disco 2?
Gary
 
@Gaz5535 ,

According to Rave it is still in the same place, you have to lower the roof liner. Be gentle with it.

( I am not sure why the photo in the manual shows the dashboard?? I think LR dropped a ******* when they wrote it)
upload_2017-1-29_9-1-13.png

Cheers
 
A couple of points which I have come up against with Disco 2 door latches.
Yes, I have heard of the possibility of replacing the faulty solenoid/motor within the case with items from such places as Maplins. To do this, of course you either have to have the parts available prior to doing the job or you're able to get to the supplier in another vehicle or you refit the old lock or you leave the car unlocked until the parts arrive. I prefer to purchase a replacement latch before doing the job.
All five latches are generally similar to replace, the main differences will occur with the rear tailgate door and the driver's door. In the case of the four main doors, the window frame will have to be removed, or at least almost removed to allow enough room to manoeuvre the latch assembly out of the door. The driver’s door has the added fiddle of having to insert the small bar between the back end of the lock barrel and the latch to allow for operation by the key. Once you have the knack of disassembly of a door, a full strip down to replace a latch should take an hour or two. The latches are specific for each door.
On the subject of new latches, be prepared to find that you have a faulty one sometimes, so don't throw the old one away until you're certain that the new one is working correctly. I fitted a new latch to the rear nearside door and found that it was faulty, it worked correctly when locking and unlocking, it worked correctly when opening it from the inside but it felt like the door needed alignment because it needed a damned good tug to open it from outside. I replaced it with another unit and all was sweetness and light again.
I haven't had problems yet with the RF receiver in the roof, but from what I do know as a radio engineer is that moisture and corrosion are the number one and two enemies of the little RF unit. Sometimes the inside of the little box can get damp, even soaking wet and that ain't good, the other problem which can occur concerns the earthing nut on the outside of the RF unit. Corrosion there can cause the working range, usually in excess of 20 feet to reduce quite significantly and that can result in "The Disco Dance"; dementedly waving your arms about and standing on one leg while touching the key on your head and pressing the unlock button at the same time. If the RF unit has got wet, then once it's been dried out it should be closely inspected because such conditions can cause irreparable damage to the electronic components. Under such circumstances, a replacement unit must be purchased, cost about £30 or so. I believe the operational frequency band is 433 Mhz.
 
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Yes, I have heard of the possibility of replacing the faulty solenoid/motor within the case with items from such places as Maplins.

Hi @brian47

Happy Monday morning to you....

I top have seen this written in a couple of places. But, I looked at an old one of mine, and I was darned if I could see a way to open and replace anything without causing severe damage, or make it a worthwhile thing to try. When I searched , I found that people had got the D1 actuator confused with the D2 and were using that as an example.

Have you seen the D2 actuator repair anywhere? I would like to see if it is viable on the old one I have.

Cheers
 
@neilly
I did try and yes I got about half way into the latch but gave up due to time and my level of patience diminishing probably due to age and grumpiness setting in.
The whole case is a snap together system, so given enough hands, screwdrivers and something to hold the damned thing still, I don't see any reason why it can't be opened up.
I the end I decided to protect my fingers and what little skin I still have and sling the old one in the bin.
There are better things in life on which to waste one's time! :D
 
@neilly
I did try and yes I got about half way into the latch but gave up due to time and my level of patience diminishing probably due to age and grumpiness setting in.
The whole case is a snap together system, so given enough hands, screwdrivers and something to hold the damned thing still, I don't see any reason why it can't be opened up.
I the end I decided to protect my fingers and what little skin I still have and sling the old one in the bin.
There are better things in life on which to waste one's time! :D

OK, know what you are saying, it was also a case of avoiding getting broken clips flicking into my eyes.
Sounds like we got to the same resolution.......:)
I have yet to see a write up showing how it is done....beginning to think it is yet another D2 interweb myth.

Cheers
 
A couple of points which I have come up against with Disco 2 door latches.
Yes, I have heard of the possibility of replacing the faulty solenoid/motor within the case with items from such places as Maplins. To do this, of course you either have to have the parts available prior to doing the job or you're able to get to the supplier in another vehicle or you refit the old lock or you leave the car unlocked until the parts arrive. I prefer to purchase a replacement latch before doing the job.
All five latches are generally similar to replace, the main differences will occur with the rear tailgate door and the driver's door. In the case of the four main doors, the window frame will have to be removed, or at least almost removed to allow enough room to manoeuvre the latch assembly out of the door. The driver’s door has the added fiddle of having to insert the small bar between the back end of the lock barrel and the latch to allow for operation by the key. Once you have the knack of disassembly of a door, a full strip down to replace a latch should take an hour or two. The latches are specific for each door.
On the subject of new latches, be prepared to find that you have a faulty one sometimes, so don't throw the old one away until you're certain that the new one is working correctly. I fitted a new latch to the rear nearside door and found that it was faulty, it worked correctly when locking and unlocking, it worked correctly when opening it from the inside but it felt like the door needed alignment because it needed a damned good tug to open it from outside. I replaced it with another unit and all was sweetness and light again.
I haven't had problems yet with the RF receiver in the roof, but from what I do know as a radio engineer is that moisture and corrosion are the number one and two enemies of the little RF unit. Sometimes the inside of the little box can get damp, even soaking wet and that ain't good, the other problem which can occur concerns the earthing nut on the outside of the RF unit. Corrosion there can cause the working range, usually in excess of 20 feet to reduce quite significantly and that can result in "The Disco Dance"; dementedly waving your arms about and standing on one leg while touching the key on your head and pressing the unlock button at the same time. If the RF unit has got wet, then once it's been dried out it should be closely inspected because such conditions can cause irreparable damage to the electronic components. Under such circumstances, a replacement unit must be purchased, cost about £30 or so. I believe the operational frequency band is 433 Mhz.
Hello Brian, & Niel, I find your conversations very informative. I however I have a confession to make, my Disco does have a second sunroof! I have only just put it on the road, as my P38 has a brake pipe gone, which is a tank out job. So I am getting myself familiar with all its querks. Anyway hopefully it will make the job a bit easier? Where is a good place to buy a replacement of the old one is us?
Gaz
 
@Gaz5535

Well, that makes life easier then.........;)...How did you miss the second sunroof???....LOL.

Are you talking about a replacement RF receiver? If so then look at part number YWY000080, ( but do check this ) It may just need the earth point cleaning / connection cleaning / or drying out. But a new one is not that expensive.

Cheers
 
All roads sadly leading to 2 x new complete actuators for my D2 front doors ;( = £££ despite getting monetarily excited finding replacement springs on ebay, then realising they are all for D1s.:oops: What frustrates me is that both the motors and solenoids are working as you can hear the whirr-clunk for both lock and unlock, so the existing actuators mostly work! I know, mostly is not enough! If only that last link between the unlock solenoid and the lock could be repaired, but it sounds like open-module surgery reading through this.....
 
All roads sadly leading to 2 x new complete actuators for my D2 front doors ;( = £££ despite getting monetarily excited finding replacement springs on ebay, then realising they are all for D1s.:oops: What frustrates me is that both the motors and solenoids are working as you can hear the whirr-clunk for both lock and unlock, so the existing actuators mostly work! I know, mostly is not enough! If only that last link between the unlock solenoid and the lock could be repaired, but it sounds like open-module surgery reading through this.....

I see in your other post that Stan is saying it is possible, from what he has found on the interweb. I on the other hand have tried it and personally think it is a waste of time. Your choice, I know I have tried to do it and it is IMHO not worth it.

But be aware that if it does not work , you will be trying to find a replacement PDQ, one thing to be aware , removal of the actuators is still a PITA , 3 elbows and the fingers of an alien are very useful. But it is possible with patiance and a box of plasters. Be very careful of at least one of the little steel bits and clips, I lost one completely , never to be found.

Cheers
 
Cheers for the H&S and part misplacement advice, neilly. I will see common sense eventually and just buy replacement actuators, I'm in the first-stage denial "I can do this" phase. It will pass!
 
Cheers for the H&S and part misplacement advice, neilly. I will see common sense eventually and just buy replacement actuators, I'm in the first-stage denial "I can do this" phase. It will pass!

Give it a try, just do not guarantee it will work, Unless you have somewhere secure to keep the vehicle with no door lock, then you can give it a try and worst case, wait until the replacement actuator turns up.
I am not saying do not do it, just be aware the write up makes it seem easier that it really has turned out for a number of people.

Cheers
 
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