Diff Lock Siezed - Help Please

Hi, My Difflock is seized in the off position and it wont budge even after receiving a whole can of WD40 from underneath and the top. I have now removed the tunnel and removed the difflock/high/low ratio selector casing from the car and am soaking it in a vat of diesel overnight to see if that helps.

Could someone please tell me what I am expecting to see? At the moment the high and low ration gear linkage works ok but I’m not sure what I should be seeing when the attempting to engage the difflock i.e. should the rod that goes all the way through the difflock selector casing move in and out as the difflock lever is pushed towards the left of the cab and does it move backwards and forwards through the centre of the splines of the high/low ration gear linkage assembly.

Sorry if the explanations not spot on, as a non mechanic tiz the best I can do.

Thanks for any replies

it should turn the selector on top of the Tbox side to side - you can get a spanner on the selector (13mm iIRC)

Do a ****ing search.

If you cant reply in civil manner perhaps you would best be served by not saying anything at all coz it aint very helpful, its also completely pointless. I have searched and I coukdnt find the answer I was looking for.

petehammond said:

Hi, My Difflock is seized in the off position and it wont budge even after receiving a whole can of WD40 from underneath and the top. I have now removed the tunnel and removed the difflock/high/low ratio selector casing from the car and am soaking it in a vat of diesel overnight to see if that helps.

Could someone please tell me what I am expecting to see? At the moment the high and low ration gear linkage works ok but I’m not sure what I should be seeing when the attempting to engage the difflock i.e. should the rod that goes all the way through the difflock selector casing move in and out as the difflock lever is pushed towards the left of the cab and does it move backwards and forwards through the centre of the splines of the high/low ration gear linkage assembly.

Sorry if the explanations not spot on, as a non mechanic tiz the best I can do.

Thanks for any replies

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Yes the rod that goes through the housing should move in and out.

Had to smack mine with a hammer to get it moving-filled the whole housing with grease to stop it locking again-also gets exercise once a week now to make sure ok

Also don't bother with WD40 for something like this, its only a water dispersant. Get some Plusgas or other suitable releasing agent.

crazymac said:

Also don't bother with WD40 for something like this, its only a water dispersant. Get some Plusgas or other suitable releasing agent.

Click to expand...

wish the plus gas had worked for me, theres loads of info on here to do with seized diff lock, mine took a couple of hours to free, and that was after taking out the console, and taking the gear stick housing off the top of the gear box, had to use a big hammer for mine.......

petehammond said:

If you cant reply in civil manner perhaps you would best be served by not saying anything at all coz it aint very helpful, its also completely pointless. I have searched and I coukdnt find the answer I was looking for.

Click to expand...

I think your taking the ****........I just found it....multiple threads.

By braying it with a hammer do you mean the rods or the diff lock lever? Just iv heard some people not being able to re engage normal diff after getting it into diff lock

It will be the metal corroded together causing the rod to jam. Once you have eventually forced it to move then it will take some rocking back and forth until it runs smoother.

A vice will help. Once it's working pack it with grease and move it at least once a month to keep it from seizing again.

So don't 'tap' the diff lock/ hi and low lever to the left with a hammer then? Clutch in and moving at 0-5mph?

Unless you want to break the lever.

Chances are the mechanism is seized and will need persuading with a bit of force in a vice.

Some people are lucky and find the thing is not fully seized and release it by rocking it side to side in situ, but not many.

Thanks to those of you who replied in a helpful manner, mines fixed now, took of the selector unit n soaked it in diesel for 24 hours, then got heat gun on it and beat the crap out of it, so hard in fact the the hole at the end of the rod that the difflock bar fits into became oval so had to drill it till so it was round again. All working perfectly now...... WD40 was a waste of time and to be honest I think it was the heat gun that was most effective

pack the housing with grease before putting back.

So then Pete, did you remove the centre console, drill the rivets out over the selector box, then heat the rods up where they enter the box?
ps ive not drilled the cover over the box off mine yet so dont know what id see when i do! is it literally just the rods?
Well Done Pete! lol

Drill the rivets out and remove console(disconnect handbrake cable)-remove rubber gasket to expose gearbox-disconnect the actuator rod and take the top off the transfer box-then you can work on it in a vice-as posted above,the rod should move from side to side,and will have bound up and take some freeing off-free off and fill with grease before refitting-it is not hard,just takes time

Cheers Bio, quality help there. When you say take the top off the transfer box what tools or method is involved as dont want to get halfway through and find i cant finish it! anything i could mess up easily when trying all this? cheers again

From memory,it is just 4 off 10mm A/F bolts to remove the housing top plate once you are under the console,and some 8mm A/F bolts on the linkages on the side rods,so small spanners and sockets-(remember the main gearstick seperates near the box with a 13mm spanner-do not try and unscrew this one)

If you take a look at this:Discovery clutch change - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum
gives you the idea of exposing the transfer box.