Collapsed Wheel Bearing

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Phantom_Mark

New Member
Posts
181
Location
Sleaford, Lincolnshire
On the way home from work the other morning my wheel bearing collapsed.

I was forced to drive on albeit slowly for around 10 miles.

I picked up new bearings for both sides today and also a Haynes manual.

Upon strip down this is what I found.

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As expected it is a mess. Trouble is that now some parts dont compare with the Haynes manual lol.

I recognise the remains of both bearings, but I cannot see the expected lock nut on the end of the shaft, unless that rounded blob of metal is all that remains ??

Also I am now wondering if I can re-use the hub and end cap bit as they are severely scored etc, opinions??

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In the last pic you can see I have tried to use my 52mm tool to shape the blob of metal on the end, driveshaft turns freely within it but it still won't come off, hence I'm guessing that is the remains of the locknut ??

Also on the last pic, is that the remains of the bearings ? If so how come I have similar shaped remains inside the hub ?

This is the first time for me with a landy and a job like this so I have no idea what is what and nothing looks like the manual because of the damage.

Any help appreciated thanks !!
 
you need new stub axle ftc3154,new hub ftc942,2x nut frc8700 ,tab washer ftc3179 2x rtc3429 brg timken only ,new seal ftc4785,just undo 6 x 17mm socket size bolts remove knackered stub fit new,more info if wanted,you must have heard something for a day or to
 
The rounded off blob certainly looks like the 52mm nut. The bits left on certainly look like the inner bearing rings. The bits still in the hub will be the outer bearing rings. The mince is the rollers.

Have a look at Buster's how to's, he has an excellent one on this job (I used it two weeks ago to do my bearings) Also, RAVE has a section on it too.

You will need to replace the lock-nut, and the washer behind it. Pack everything with plenty of grease too when you are re-building it all.
 
Thanks guys, that's what I was kinda thinking, my local 4x4 specialist said is was noisy but be ok for a while yet !!!! It just passed it's mot less than 200 miles ago.

As it's all fubar I might as well do the cv's as well right ??

Doing the drivers side bearings as preventative maintenance as well btw, it can't be far behind this one eh !!
 
cv looks allright ,he aint a specialist if he thinks that those type of wheel brg if noisy are allright to run on id find someone who knows what there doing ,front wheel drive car wheel brgs will run a while if a little noisy but definately not disco ,def,series brgs
 
Well this is the same "specialist" who has dome the rest of the shoddy work on my truck, hence it's all DIY from here on so I know it's been done properly !!!

Can't seem to find a price for a hub? Stubs seem about 30 quid ?

Would a second hand hub be worth considering if in fair condition ?

Thanks again
 
hub ftc942 is about £50+vat ,used one would be fine any 300tdi def/disco,rrc they are all the same including front and back,get used stub to go with it and nuts ,new timken brgs though
 
if your lookin for used bits be aware that the early 200tdi disco and range rover classic stub axles and drive flange arrangement is different as are the cv and halfshaft, your drive flange has a splined hole in the middle the other sort has a splined shaft on it that sticks in through the hub
 
Thanks guys, that's what I was kinda thinking, my local 4x4 specialist said is was noisy but be ok for a while yet !!!! It just passed it's mot less than 200 miles ago.

As it's all fubar I might as well do the cv's as well right ??

Doing the drivers side bearings as preventative maintenance as well btw, it can't be far behind this one eh !!

might be worth investing in a good piece of hardwood instead of using a house brick to jack off,the weight of a car on your leg hurts like **** when bricks shatter. might wanna blag some axle stands as well;)
 
Personally I would try to remove the bearing races first from the stub axle. Chisel the nut around to get it moving and unscrew if, then try to get the races moving. Either chisel/air chisel to get them to slide, or if they are stuck on carefully slice them with a grinder and spread them slightly to slide them off.

Saves replacing parts if not needed. Likewise hub might take new races quite happily.

Either that or probably cheaper to buy complete hub from breaker.

Up to you :)
 
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