Bleeding ACE rear system

Hi, Am just about to install new rear ACE pipes (03 vehicle) and have taken down the rollbar to make it easy and replace the bushes and droplinks, as well as valve block filter and seals,but have read various threads on bleeding the system,some saying it will eventually bleed itself if you take it out and run it ,cornering fast etc. .Without going back to the M.D. who charges exhorbitant prices is there any way I can do it myself.

If I was to leave the lower rear pipe just out of the valve block a tad,while an assistant tops it up and the engine is running (in situ,ACE is not active,but there is a flow) do you think that might enable a better flow and ensure the system could bleed itself as I assume those pipes must be directional to some extent as the fluid is pumped one way at high pressure and returns back through the other pipe under a lower pressure .Would I be correct in saying this??? Any advice please. The front system wasn't touched so I assume there was sufficient fluid in there so it won't need bleeding OR? . Also I am wondering how the Main Dealer does bleed the system using Testbook I assume ,but bleeding usually requires eliminating airpockets and if there are no bleedscrews (that I am aware of) how do they carry it out.

Hi Discomite, ACE bleed is carried out using testbook with the droplinks disconected. THe system runs a test program that runs the system and has the vehicle 'dancing' to pump the fluid round. The system is high pressure and all the air will get back to the resevoir and must be kept topped up as the program runs.
Did your system drain when you did the pipes ? If not then most of your fluid should still be in the pipes. You can pump the rear with a jack if you have the drop links off, or rock the vehicle, or as you said go for a rough drive with lots of cornering. As long as you keep the resevoir topped up it should not harm the pump.

Paul.

You can also bleed the system using either Nanocom or Hawkeye

Hi Paul &Biggeee. I am just about to change rear pipes for new ones and removed rollbar to change bushes and clean around the underneath as this was the cause of my pipes leaking in the first place.The rubber mounting bracket (connecting the pipes in rear wheelarch area)was caked in mud and dirt which caused a few pinholes in just that spot but surprisingly the rest of the pipes were o.k. but went for new instead of repair as I don't particularly want to be going under there again. The rear actuator had emptied during removal and cleanup, so the rear plumbing will be dry .I've kept it very clean covering the rear actuator ports with clean cotton as I did with the valve block ports. I should have all the parts delivered tomorrow ,so next challenge will be to remove the 2 valve block seals safely and change the filter . I read either a 10x1.5mm bolt or an extractor is good to remove the seals .The installation of the seal looks o.k. with a tap in on the wooden rounded add-on piece to centre it up.What do you think ,are they that tight to remove or difficult to install ? Any tips most welcome . I'll then hopefully get her filled and bled .

I'm about to do the same thing tomorrow, how did you get on replacing the valve block seals?

Replace the pipes, top up with fluid, go for a short ride, top up again then go to a harsh ride, top up again if needed...it will bleed itself.... i did this myself also after i've replaced the rear pipes... never had to bleed it via tester.

I eventually removed ACE functionality due to losing my patience and working in the dark on the block I damaged it while removing one of the seals....believe me I found it very difficult to remove the seals as they were almost welded in ..but when the M.D. tells you they would charge huge bucks and couldn't guarantee the job (might leak later)I decided to try it myself...but am now glad I'll never have ACE trouble again and don't notice any major difference in cornering but then again I'm just a normal road user with occasional trips on the country lanes .I reckon when your car gets over 6 years old it's going to start giving ACE trouble and you never know when it's going to let you down and cost you a fortune.. 6 or more pipes..valve block...pump...2 x actuators...I just replaced a.r.bars and removed the pump for an idler pulley with a new belt..job done for life and one less thing to worry about..

As an aside, I had the front pipes replaced and my AC has never really been right. I do not want to get rid of it, but am getting frustrated.

Te indie who did the work, ran through the bleed procedure on the Hawkeye but did not undo the drop links. It did help a little but shortly afterwards the functionality of the ACE deteriorated. Got advice on here about rocking it side to side, then giving it a bit of a thrashing which helps quite a bit.

The problem is that is seems that air is getting in or something as the effectiveness drops off after a day or two. I am now going through the process most mornings.

Is there something I am missing? Do not want to spend loads on this etc

1. Air cant get accidentally in this system.
2. Does the ACE warning light work on self test?
3. A common fault is this www.discovery2.co.uk / ACE amber light - Pressure Transducer
4. i hope that who replaced the pipes knew this
"CAUTION: The ACE hydraulic system is extremely sensitive to the ingress of dirt or debris. The smallest amount could render the system unserviceable. It is imperative that the following precautions are taken.
- ACE components are thoroughly cleaned externally before work commences;
- all opened pipe and module ports are capped immediately;
- all fluid is stored in and administered through clean containers."

Other thing which cause missbehaviour of the system without showing fault codes is if the pipes were incorectly fitted... for somebody not carefull enough is very easy to mix them and get a reversed flow in the actuator... happened to me.

Thanks again Sierraferry
The ACE warning lights self test ok on start up, going from amber to red to clear.
I really hope there is no dirt in the system!

But my situation is odd in that it will work fairly well after a good rocking / thrashing and then go back to poor performance / not effective a couple of days later.