bios plate refit ...suggestions

hello i am planning on renewing the bios plate and springs at the bottom of the gear lever !!

the reason is that i am not able to get the gear stick in reverse 2,4 and 5
i managed to limp home in 1st and then went to 3rd.

how it happend ..... no idea there one minute then could get it in ....but i know the spring that pushes the gear stick in the normally position went a while ago but didnt think of it !!!

no i think that the springs have gone and the plate has been broken or blocked by the springs!!

i am planning on doing this in the morning so any suggestion would be great please on whats the best way and tips vid link etc

cheers Anthony

springs wont have gone as are bolted through plate,,once consol and rubber gaiter out of way need large cross head screw driver to remove cover .bias plate holds gear stick in 3rd 4th alignment or should do if upright part of plate that supports springs isnt jammed stopping gear stick getting other gears you may need to remove gear box top to check selector yoke,grub screw comes loose,when refitting springs start bolt half way push lever to 1st and bend drivers side spring over lever with mole grips or such then move lever to 5th and do other ,plate has slotted holes to adjust alignment of lever

before final tightening make sure gear stick is in 3rd and adjust gap in springs either side of gearstick'try and get them as even as possible then tighten to the correct torqe setting

why correct torque setting its not critical as long as tight enough for size of bolt

jamesmartin said:

why correct torque setting its not critical as long as tight enough for size of bolt

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each to there own i supose,but personally i'd sooner not shear the head off a bolt.

how can you not tell when 8mm bolt is tight and carry on till busts,

jamesmartin said:

how can you not tell when 8mm bolt is tight and carry on till busts,

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Because there are too many people who haven't a clue how to tighten bolts/nuts. I've seen to many amateurs over tighten with resulting rounded heads and stripped threads. Look at the number of timing belt idler retaining bolt failures!

never seen one if you cant tighten bolts you shouldnt be trying to fix a vehicle thats going to be used on the road,

jamesmartin said:

never seen one if you cant tighten bolts you shouldn't be trying to fix a vehicle that's going to be used on the road,

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I absolutely agree!!

My comment is that its better to weld up a broken bias plate than to replace it - a properly welded plate will last forever,a new one will suffer the same fate as the old one.You can see why they fail,its just bad design/manufacturing.A welded one can have nicely radiussed welds which will be loads stronger and last forever.
As for tightening the bolts - well that is down to a basic mechanical understanding/sympathy,which as stated is dangerous on a machine which can be a dangerous weapon.Saying that only yesterday I had a TD5 90 in to do rear calipers,the pad retaining split pins had been fitted without bending the ends over..... Now that is careless - esp when they were fitted by a local "LR Specialist"

I replaced mine three weeks ago after it broke on a laning trip.

When undoing it make sure you are carefull to not allow the springs to make a bid for freedom, they will hurt! Thankfully I was prewarned as well!!

I didn't do any of the suggested "put in 3rd gear" or anything like that and mine is fine, no problem selecting gears etc, may have been luck? Dunno!

The new plate I got cost me £5 and is definately made of thicker and stronger metal!

jamesmartin said:

never seen one if you cant tighten bolts you shouldnt be trying to fix a vehicle thats going to be used on the road,

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i also agree,hence the reference to do it by the book,a more prudent and helpfull reply wouldnt you say!!

On the subject of tightening nuts it isn't just the amateurs... I had my clutch changed by a "Specialist", drove 1/2 mile down the road and the rear prop shaft disconnected from the donut!!! The nuts hadn't even been put back on?!!