ACE conversion looking likely now,need advice

Hi Folks, I've posted earlier threads wrt changing rear ace pipes and have now had them delivered incl. 2 seals ,filter and a few other small bits and pieces so have spent about £250 so far.
Yesterday, having tried everything to remove the 2 seals ,first the bolt as advised,then attempted using an easyout (to my peril) , and finally had to resort to a 1/2inch sharp chisel and both seals came out in bits it as they were welded/corroded in the block .I have damaged the block where the plastic insert sits in , and maybe a little bit inside,however have managed to tap both new seals back in and can see the seals inside ,but I am 90 percent sure I will get leaks so want to know the possible options which lie ahead.
I am about to put back the rollbar and run pipes but really expect this will be a futile excercise. So perhaps you could give me some advice on the direction to go as I've been off the road for 2 weeks now.

Repair/Replace
If I was to buy a used block for around £100 I would have to by 6 seals and maybe more,(would be over £200 in total)which is still risky as some of the used blocks have their seals still inside so removing them could be a problem.also removing my front pipes could be a risk as well, allthough I got the rear ones out o.k.If i knew this would work I would like to keep the ACE but have to be practical too. Incidentally I don't do any offroad or rough driving.

Convert
If I was to convert to non-ACE,buy the 2 bars ,pulley and belt would run about £220 +vat and then get the Dealer to program it to non-ACE. Could be all done for under £300.Do I need anything else? I could then advertise and hopefully sell the (new)rear pipes and the pump and filter ,I might get the cost of the conversion or at least get something back.However I know there are ACE REMOVAL kits also available but haven't seen one for Air Suspension which I have (and recently replaced 1 spring) .In fact DLS specifically states they don't do a kit for SLS models.See their link:-

LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 2 TD5 ACE REMOVAL on Coils and A/C | eBay UK
So a deciding question could be ..Is non-ACE fully compatible with SLS and will pass MOT etc.or? If so has anyone seen a kit or should I convert to coils at the rear as well. i'm nearly 56 years of age and don't plan on getting under the car much but would like to hang on to it.
Any advice welcome.Thanks .

SLS equipped cars can be either ACE or Non-ACE, the only difference is SLS equiped cars have larger rear passive anti roll bars (fronts the same on both versions) than vehicles that are on coils so you have to make sure you buy the correct replacement rear bar.

The kit DLS sell is fine, except it would need the correct rear bar substituting into it.

Mines on Air (SLS) and I have just de-ACE'd.

Your location is not in your profile, where abouts in the UK are you ?

Urban Panzer, have you noticed anything detrimental after de-aceing?

My front and pump-pipes are looking pretty rusty though haven't gone through yet. The front ACE actuator is also leaking slightly.

I don't mind ripping it all out but if there's much to gain, then I'll try to keep it alive.

David

Don't forget what you could get for the ace pump on ebay if you explain why you have removed it.
Other altenative is to leave the ace pump in place and re-route the outlet from the pump back into the reservoir instead of the return from the ace block. Then it just lubricates itself in a loop.

David Pye said:

Urban Panzer, have you noticed anything detrimental after de-aceing?

My front and pump-pipes are looking pretty rusty though haven't gone through yet. The front ACE actuator is also leaking slightly.

I don't mind ripping it all out but if there's much to gain, then I'll try to keep it alive.

David

Click to expand...

In all honesty, done about 1500 miles since doing it, the first 1000 was a week away in the lakes both on and offroad, and no not missed it at all.....what I will say is this, you can feel a "little" more body roll going into a bend, but nothing like you would expect, infact it still handles very well and im running MT's.
I do have heavy duty front springs and all new shocks, so that "may" play a part in how it is.

If your asking me if I would de-ACE another one, ie a road only going vehicle, then would not hesitate tbh.....but it all depends on how ya drive "yours", if its chipped and you like to throw it about, then cannot say if its what "you" would want.

Bottom line is money, I really dont mind fixing anything tbh, but the ACE is so expensive and a really poor design (block fittings) so just had no confidence in it's design, apart from the fact I needed ALL new pipes as they all broke flush with the block face.

I've been de-ACE for about 3 years.

If you have coil springs, there is no real differemce. On Air-Bags the car does lean a bit more in corners.


For me it's a no-brainer, I would take it off every time.

Hi Urban Panzer/others, Thanks for the advice. I totally agree with what you say about the ACE reliability/design .I've had repairs done last year to the front where the heavy duty plastic pipe chaffed against the battery box,now this year the rear pipes replaced, and on inspection I wouldn't have too much faith in the front pipes. Btw I live in Dublin but bought my O3 4 years ago from a farmer who brought it in from the UK , I had it in mind to do a total cleanup under the body and then Dinitrol it,which in hindsight would have been great and I may not then have had this current trouble. Last thing as you mention Urban Panzer the rear bar is different ,however would the droplinks be the same (RGD1000682) as I've already bought 2 of them

Discomite said:

Hi Urban Panzer/others, Thanks for the advice. I totally agree with what you say about the ACE reliability/design .I've had repairs done last year to the front where the heavy duty plastic pipe chaffed against the battery box,now this year the rear pipes replaced, and on inspection I wouldn't have too much faith in the front pipes. Btw I live in Dublin but bought my O3 4 years ago from a farmer who brought it in from the UK , I had it in mind to do a total cleanup under the body and then Dinitrol it,which in hindsight would have been great and I may not then have had this current trouble. Last thing as you mention Urban Panzer the rear bar is different ,however would the droplinks be the same (RGD1000682) as I've already bought 2 of them

Click to expand...

Yep everything is the same except the rear bar / bushes for SLS vehicles

Bar Part no RGB101310

Bushes RBX101700
for 'sls' Bar

I have just completed a complete repair of my ACE system. I have modified the valve block to hydraulic fittings, and now run 2 home made steel pipes and 4 hyraulic hoses. Very time comsuming, and not without its problems but final cost was about £250 all up.

Thanks for the info Urban Panzer and am still undecided as I've not been able to get her finally tightened up and bracketed ,filled and checked for leakage due to monsoon weather and being away for a few days,but also on my mind is removing of SLS as I know then I would have to order different rear bar/bushes .It's also quite cheap to convert to coils so with both conversions would end up with a more "reliable" car. However I'm seriously thinking now though if I do get a minor leak I will get the block braised around the holding bracket and rear pipes at the block , if this could work,what do you think ?...new pipes back there should be good for a long time , as basically the block will be the problem if it leaks due to me wounding it while removing the seals...braising wouldn't cost much and then I should be good to go for another while ,be back on the road and then at the next sign of trouble order all the kit to remove ACE and SLS . John I was contemplating your suggestion of fittings to the block but then I guess you have steel pipes to worry about still .Anyway rain is stopped and here goes for the final test ,will let you know guys and once again thanks..

I think the only "decent" way to mod the ACE block is to drill and tap it with hydraulic fittings as posted above, but thats time consuming and you still hve to spend out on it.

Although the block fittings is the achillies heal of the system, its pipe corrosion thats the root problem.

I can fully inderstand people wanting to keep it, but for me it was a no brainer, and tbh I feel a lot more "confident" in the vehicle now its all off........+ already thinking of modding the ARB's.

hello everyone,the advice is great,i want to get rid of the ace on mine and the air springs,any advice as to where to get the kits from and roughly how much? cheers

theroach said:

hello everyone,the advice is great,i want to get rid of the ace on mine and the air springs,any advice as to where to get the kits from and roughly how much? cheers

Click to expand...

my first question is look at the mot and see what it asks for on your vehical befor you go and change the suspention

cheers will do