300tdi Auto Converted to Manual - Help

Hi, my local 4x4 guys put in a manual box for me along with pedal box etc and all the other basics, however I have some problems here atm

The engine lacks any power at all, something which wasn't a problem as an auto, they changed the pump for a manaul pump, aparantly the auto fuel pump gets confused with no signal coming from the removed auto box ?

The chap said he wound back the pump a little because it sounded "knocky", transit DI style, trouble is its gutless and almost undrivable.....

I know fek all about adjusting the pump, though I did find the gear under the top colar after watching an unrelated vid on the tube, dont wanna screw with it and make the wrong adjustments until I have taken some advice tho.

So, how can I adjust my pump ? any guides ?

Will it hurt if it knocks ?

Is there something missing from the conversion process ?

Thanks in advance, no pressure, just trying to sort it so I can drive to work tonight lol !!!!

:doh:

yes you can fit manual to edc you just have to convert flywheel and put 4x equally spaced lugs arou8nd edge i use 6mm threaded bar ,and weld a block of ali to flywheel housing to secure sensor throughedc is more powerful than non edc, to advance pump remove 3 x bolts on inspection plate in front cover put pin in fly wheel hole when to coincide with pump timing hole put in pin slacken 3 x bolt holding sporcket to pump flange using 7/8 or 22mm spanner turn pump nut clockwise to advance anticlockwise to retard and tighten 3 x bolt ,usually holding against 9mm pin clockwise as far as possible is enough but some times ive had to remove pin to get a bit more use a smaller pin 8mm etc ,if it knocks go back a bit ,perfect timing will be just before knock ,hence the use off knock sensors on p38 v8s and others

Ok, a little lost but thanks

Parts list was...

Gearbox from a manual 300tdi
Flywheel from a manual 300tdi
Gearbox Cross Member
New Clutch Kit
Pedal box and Master Cylinder etc
Bell Housing iirc
Fuel Pump from a manual 300tdi
Some bolts were replaced to suit on bellhousing I think he told me

Pretty sure he replaced nothing else.

Used this vid to do something similar, and I think I have a little more umph now ?

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zPnjE3neoM&feature=related"]YouTube - How to: Rotate fuel pin (cone) diaghram on your 89-93 Dodge cummins VE pump! More power![/nomedia]


rotated in the internal cog a couple of turns, tbh I really dont know wtf I am doing but keen to learn none the less, also wound in the smoke screw a little ?

Not smoking at all out of interest, the cap seems to never have been removed before either.

wrong place for doing timing ,if you know what your doing you can keep edc and extra power but put mechanical pump timing right before adjusting anything else on pump they had retarded pump through the front cover hence boost diaphragm cap been untouched

Ok James, well I can almost be certain anything that needs doing now must be done by myself, so I am going to have to learn from zilch.

I can weld, but not ali, I can do nuts and bolts basic mechanics like brakes, belts etc, but not heavy work so that precludes me from even entertaining taking the box back off to even look at the flywheel...............exactly the reason I hired the local specialists to take on this job, it has taken them 4 months to get it this far and I am at the end of my tether needing the vehicle for everyday reliable transport to and from work, prepared to spend the money on it, and prepared to get my hands dirty, just lack the know how

Frustrated is not the word right now.........

EDC ?

Flywheel hole ?

Access panel, I am guessing thats actually on the front of the pump I have been messing around with ?

fwiw as an auto it was never a rocket ship but went a lot better than now, the reason I got rid of the auto box was it was leaping between 2nd and 3rd despite fresh fluids and filter in the box etc.....and I hated the fact the engine got thrashed when it was cold for no reason.

Forgot to mention, the throttle position switch is no longer connected to anything, is that correct, remembering of course it was an auto now manual ?

I found the front cover as well, god I feel such a newbie with my landy

yours was edc,electronical controlled injection pump and put to std mechanical pump,hence the need to swap throttle pot and put cable throttle back

do you still have your old parts , pump etc

Yes those parts I should be able to get back.

Another quick inspection and it seems possible the turbo vacuum pipe MAY be resting against the manifold, a thin vacuum type looking black pipe has melted against it, will investigate tomorrow when I get back from work, was a real struggle getting to work, my lorry loaded goes up one hill much easier than my disco does atm, disco struggles up with a thrash @ 40mph where my lorry will easily manage 50 !! Previously the disco would have done 55/60 on the same hill without thrashing it, top speed seems around 55/60 atm as well, which would be fine if it didn't take a week to get there lol

there is a feed needed to go from turbo to top of injection pump which is important to keep fueling rifgth when turbo boosts obviously it will run fine on mechanical injection pump but if you still had crank sensor from gear box bell housing throttle pot ,injection pump, you could have had your edc back ,at the moment you probably need injection pump timing checking ,adjusting,and boost pipe checking ,wastegate actuator pipe ,turbo hoses checking etc to get it to run fine

Ok I repaired the melted boost pipe today and things have improved massively, still no rocket ship but at least drivable now.

Want to learn how to do that pump timing etc now, will also check other hoses and make myself an egr blank. Will check and probably replace all the hoses with a decent set just to make sure and cross it off my to do list !! Can't hurt eh.

I noticed the leak back pipes are also in rag order, is there a part number for these ? Also I noticed that the final connection top of the injector closest to the bulkhead has no pipe at all connected despite all the others being connected in series? Is that right ?

My engine does not smoke at all ATM even with the boost pipe fixed and clearly giving me more fuel, so I guess there is plenty of scope for improvement ?

Can I assume adjusting the tappets on one of these motors would be the same sort of thing I did on a petrol engine long ago? Release lock nuts, insert feelers and adjust ? My engine sounds quite tappy IMHO

Sorry for the plethora of questions, just wanna make the old girl run and go as best I can, clearly relying on 'experts' is not an option and I need to do this stuff myself, time to start learning !!

So I guess question 1, injector pump timing, I get the bit about front cover, but lost when you mention about aligning the flywheel? Is that done via the same access hole ?

Q2. Tappets, same as adjusting a petrol? What is the clearances and is it gonna make a big difference you think ?

Q3. Diesel knock, what causes it, timing being wrong I understand, but does that basically mean it's just being over fueled ? Laymens terms ?

Will get my old parts back Wednesday, I would need to remove the gearbox to retrofit the edc tho right, thinks that's probably beyond my home tools and equipment setup tho ?

tappets number nine method as petrol,pump timing has to be at tdc no1 which is crank with pin in right slot cam with marks aligned pump with pin in,knock occurs when ignition of fuel occurs before tdc top dead center ,the piston coming up hits fuel expansion and wants to go down while still going up ,as it takes some time for explosion or burn to occur timing needs to advance to cater for this but not too much that it knocks .i would have preffered to put back to edc with manual box ,im probably not too far away send me a pm and we could talk on phone or i could show you

A very kind offer indeed thanks, will drop you a pm.