300 Tdi stop........then start!

Hello people,I have a series 1 300Tdi (95) up till now, apart from the floor panels rotting away, the old beast has not let us down. However, she stopped suddenly on the way back from work the other day, after making my calls (wife, breakdown, ect) I decided to try and start her up one more time, upon which the engine fired as normal and I drove home no probs,time elapse from stop to start about eight mins. After digging around on the net I came across a post refering to an 'alarm spider' and all the ills of the world contained within it! I guess I need to know wether my landy has one of these items or could it be any number of other things, it would seem to me that the problem lies with the fuel pump solonoid switch, this I believe is linked with the immobiliser system (limited landrover knowledge alert!) Anyways, any opinions would be welcome, confidence in the truck has taken a bit of a knock, we live 'in the sticks' so breaking down is not a clever option! so i would like to try and nail this down quick, ta.

The fuel stop solenoid costs around £10 - £15 from the motor factors, I'd start my changing that. Have you had any problems with starting?

..There is a great link to the spider on here, which i will find and pass on or something.....i would read it first as the guy who wrote spent some serious time and effort chaseing and fixing all manner of stuff that was not broken.....

Nick.

Here you go.........The Definitive Alarm Spider Post - LR4x4 - The Land Rover Forum

Nick.

Thanks Disco Lew and njh2, it would seem to be logical to start with the stop solonoid first (cheapest) checked out the alarm spider link, lots of good info, some a tad over my head! well written too, this guy really 'walks the walk' hase'nt quite inspired me to rip the dash out yet, i am the guy who has a screw left over after changing the iron plug! but will start with the solonoid and see where we go.

Just a thought simple first check.could you be loosing power to the stop solonoid {should be 12v valve open } you can test by puting a wire on the supply to the valve connect this to a bulb in the cab earth bulb in cab If bulb goes out you have lost power Would check this first saves hunting the spider Quick FIX is pick up an ignition fed live and connect to stop solonoid

V8 GROWLER said:

Just a thought simple first check.could you be loosing power to the stop solonoid {should be 12v valve open } you can test by puting a wire on the supply to the valve connect this to a bulb in the cab earth bulb in cab If bulb goes out you have lost power Would check this first saves hunting the spider Quick FIX is pick up an ignition fed live and connect to stop solonoid

Click to expand...

Yes I've done that too, another good way of diagnosing it. However, I've found that if its a spider problem, it generally shows itself when starting, i.e having to turn the engine over and over before it will start. Sounds to me like your solenoid is just knackared and every so often cuts your engine out.

Sounds reassuring that it is not a spider problem, as truck always starts first time every time.

Cheers for your inputs - I'll get the stop solenoid replaced & see how I go.

She goes in for welding this week (boot floor) so I can get it looked at then.

Bit of a tip with the solenoid! It's a right fiddle to get it back in, as the there's a cap which slots over the actuator rod and spring, which is not physically attached! Every time you go to screw it back on, the bloody thing falls off and you have to start again! If you put a little dab of grease onto the arm first, it should hold the cap long enough for you to screw the solenoid back in

HTH,
Lew