300 TDi Heater/Blower

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AC7X

Member
Posts
68
Location
Dumfries, Scotland
Hey,

I'm sure you'll all agree that this isn't the time of year to have a dodgy heater! My landy has been laid up for the past 2 months waiting for parts to fix off-road damage, and now that it has been mechanically restored (well, kinda) I've found that the blower on the heater has given up the ghost.

When I was using the car before the heater would work as normal, but every two minutes or so it would cut out for about 5 seconds, and then start working again. When I got the car back yesterday the blower worked fine for about 10 minutes and then cut off and hasn't worked since.

(It might be worth noting that it was sitting outside in the cold weather for 2 months and never used - so damp in the electrics may be an issue?)

Also - when I move the switch I can hear a clicking noise coming from under the glove box. (The same clicking noise I can hear when I try to start the car using the key, won't work - have to start it from a wire under the bonnet).

Two hour journey last night in the ****ing freezing cold, lengthened to three hours because one of my brake pads gave up (I hope) and the car started jerking dangerously to the right every time I braked.

Please help!

Thanks,

Alec.
 
You can get to the heater blower quite easily, unclip the kick panel from underneath the glove-box and fold it down, now look upwards towards to centre of the dashboard, you'll see the heater & heater fan there.
Disconnect the wire plug, remove the 3 PK screws, and the heater fan just comes out.

The very first thing to do would be to check the fuses.
 

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Ok - fuse is good, I can get to the heater under the glove box like Gafferjim said - but how do I diagnose the problem?

There is a clicking sound coming from around that area when you move the slider from 0 to 1.
 
Common problem is that the bits of foam that are tucked into the vents at the back edge of the bonnet sometimes get into the heater blower & jam it (mine did!) once you've got it out, just touch +ive & -ive to the 2 wire terminals, according the the Haynes manual, the green wire is +ive, with the black wire being -ive, it should go to full blast.

If it's just seized up through being sat, then hand spinning it and connecting it up to test it should free it off.
 
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