200Tdi Engine or Gbox for clutch change?

Hi all,

I need to change the clutch in the Disco and have a problem deciding the best way.

My driveway, although level is all gravel and for the most part I will be on my own.

So which is best, out with the engine or move the Gbox back? Any help would be greatfully received as I just can't decide having never changed a clutch on any 4x4.

Tx

Hi. Have a look at :

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/gearbox-removal-disco-1-a-68746.html

Hope this helps

Thanks M6SJG,

I have read through the various threads and there is nothing to decide against the two methods other than personal preference.

I was toying with the idea of a greabox 'Lift Sledge' arrangement and also making up some engine brackets that allow the engine to slide forward easily therefore allowing nearly a foot of access between the gearbox and the flywheel.

The thread was useful and again thank you. I think I will be underneath for the forseeable future

well, i thought i may aswell offer my 2 penneth.

i had to remove the lt77 and transfer from my v8 disco cos it was broken, and my god what a struggle.

it was not a difficult job as such, not complex, just a bloody heavy bugger and a bit of a fiddle at times.

i reckon if just for a clutch it would be easier to remove the rad and intercooler and fan assembly, and undo the two engine mounts, obviuosly the bell housing bolts will be awkward but the rest should be easy.

if you have trouble lining the clutch plate up then its probably not a lot more work to lift the engine out completely, fit the clutch, maybe do a timing belt whilst its out.

theres not a lot of reasons to struggle with the bleeding gearbox (which also involves removing all the interior console etc) when the engine can come out more easily and probably with more benefit

cheers!

is there not a place you can hire engine crane and suspend gearbox/tbox through center tunnel much the easiestplus you can lower box down to get at top bell housing bolts

I changed the clutch (Discovery 300Tdi) on a friends drive in Zimbabwe - we took the engine out. It much easier to work on that way - the gearbox is heavy and difficult to manoeuvre when you are under the car. You need a good hoist and a smooth enough surface for it to run on as you will want to take the engine right out. We did the whole job in a day and a half, but we weren't rushing.

Haynes manual recommends engine out as well, as did a friend of mine whose job was rebuilding Range Rovers.

Best tip I can give is for getting the engine to gearbox bolts out. Remove engine mounts completely, and lower engine as far as it can go. When you get to undo the top four engine to gearbox bolts, one person goes under the car with ratchet and two or three extension bars and the socket. They slide the socket and bars along the top of the gearbox, and then an assistant feeds the socket onto the bolt from the top inside the engine bay, and holds it there while the poor sod under the car starts cranking the ratchet.

Look for other things to change as well - On a 300Tdi, the recomendation is to change the release forks as well as the bearing. You may need a new spigot bush as well.

Good Luck!

Box out. No fluids to disturb. Make a cradle for your trolley jack and it slides back and down. I've done both Defender and Discovery clutches that way.

personally i would do the same as andyb66 but be carefull or it will be the second last box you end up in, they are fookin heavy

I did the clutch twice and always slid the box backwards. I didn`t want to bother with all the wiring and tubing on the engine.
Lifting the box with Heavy duty Truck belts between the chassis rails and moving it back and forward with ratchet power did the job.

Thanks for all your comments, I have found them all very interesting.

The plan I am taking will be to remove the engine and whilst out I will change the timing belt too. One issue with this though is the undoing (if that is a word) of the crank pully bolt as I understand the buggers are TIGHT!!

I will also change the rear crankshaft oil seal as a precaution.

Any thing else that is best done whilst the lump is out?

Also is there anyway that the slam panel can be removed/replaced as the height may be an issue.

tx

Rear crankshaft oil seal?

GreenHornet said:

The plan I am taking will be to remove the engine and whilst out I will change the timing belt too. One issue with this though is the undoing (if that is a word) of the crank pully bolt as I understand the buggers are TIGHT!!

I will also change the rear crankshaft oil seal as a precaution.

Any thing else that is best done whilst the lump is out?

Also is there anyway that the slam panel can be removed/replaced as the height may be an issue.

Click to expand...

You can do the cam belt with the engine in; the average service mechanic would do it that way Rear crank oil seal can be done when you do the clutch.

I have made a tool that bolts to the crank pulley with a 4 ft handle that means you can hold the crank still and undo the crank bolt (or just crack it off) Much saver than the starter motor method.

And no....the slam panel can't be removed it is one piece and spot welded in behind the head lights.....

......any other reason you need to just get on and remove the gearbox

gearbox removal it is then. Will cradle it through the transmission on a strap which seems to be the easiest method.

Steamed it all off this afternoon and will order parts tonight.

Thank you for all your comments - very much appreciated

ok gearbox, fair enough

i used an engine crane with a chain round the main belly of the gearbox, and then a small ratchet strap from the crane to the transfer case. the chain takes most of the weight but the ratchet strap could be used to alter the angle of the whole assembly, which made it much easier (i thought) to line up the input shaft into the clutch

hope that helps

cheers

Cheers Mr Noisy,

I don't have a hydraulic lift but thought of riging something similar to an engine support beam inside and likewise going through the trans tunnel. If things get a little tight I can easily remove the seats as it is a three door model.

Just waiting to get paid so i get a Borg & Beck clutch as the general concensus is that Britparts are sh*tparts

Tx

Hi guys

i am planning to remove my mates 300 tdi from his disco soon to replace the clutch and stuff aswell as some work on the engine, with the engine mounts fully removed and engine lowered as far as it can go is there enough room to use an air impact wrench ( windy gun ) to remove the top 4 engine to gearbox bolts.

Very unlikely - you're running about 2-3 foot of extension bar along the top of the gearbox, and may need a UJ as well. It was my mate under the car but I gather there wasn't a lot of room. As I said in a previous post, definitely worth having someone holding the socket on to the bolt head, which can be done in the engine bay.

Standard ratchet was fine for getting them undone - they weren't that tight.
Cheers!

Well it is all done.

The old clutch had split into 3 pieces and was totally shagged.

Many many thanks to all of you that replied and helped with my woes. I very much appreciate it.

Thank you